leener

They cut the fuel pipe? When I needed one for my ZZR, I took it off, measured the internal bore, (think it was 7 or 8mm), went up the road to an automotive store, cut the new one to length, put on a jubilee clip, and job done.

This one has gone a bit quiet. I want to see the finished result

I know, matey. Hopefully nobody will nick it, but if they do then they are desperate. And, I wouldn't bother claiming for it. It's a £300 lump, after all. I would only cut my losses, which wouldn't be much. The mot isn't until 26th of April, by which time I plan to scrap it, as it will almost certainly fail on the emissions. That diesel lump puts out a lot of smoke. It's my 'emergency' car, for use only when I have no bike, or need to take a passenger out. Instead of £300+ per month for a car on finance, I just hop around the local ads and go check out a cheap runner with a long MOT. Check every nut and bolt to tell if it will likely go bang, or keep going, keep it until the MOT expires, and either flog it or crush it.

Thank you, thank you. My bodge is the talk of the office, right now. Give it five minutes... Everyone will be queuing to book me to do it to their car, next. I have a spare airbag going, now... So am contemplating on creating an under-seat security device for the Triumph.

Here you go... Don't laugh! It's the biggest bodge I have ever done, hands down.

I would say that a split hose anywhere, particularly to the carb is probable cause of said symptoms. Removal is the way forward.

Yup. Don't need it... Oh, ship. I stuck the 10130 power map on my RS the other day to see if it would improve things (which it did), but forgot to check if there are any settings I need to change, because mine has no SAI...

He was well known to the old bill, clearly. No mention of his other previous in the article, and undoubtedly he had several, (poss dealing, theft, twoc). By the way this article portrays the events, following his death, the rider had either attracted the police attention by the manner of his riding, or (mostly AND) his number plate flagged up on the ANPR. The police would have wanted a chat, but did not gain authorisation for pursuing him, and gave chase anyway. Shortly followed by the moped colliding with another vehicle and causing his own accidental death. He had, in his possession 7 bags of skunk cannabis - so, pretty hard to convince that he wasn't a dealer. My thoughts are that he made his own bed. He chose to flee from the police, he chose to deal drugs, and any other activities he got up to, leading him to his sudden end. Of course his family are up in arms about the result of the investigation. However, the police have an extremely challenging job to do, making decisions on the fly, while upholding a duty of care to everyone. In my eyes, the police did nothing wrong, and the incident is nothing more than another case of natural selection. I feel sorry for the police.

Sounds like a bundle of joy, that bike of yours. I recently had charging issues with mine, but the lights weren't affected, unless the power really dropped low. In that case, the digits off the digital display would disappear, also. Typically, (from what I learnt), if the lights change with the revs, then you'll be suspecting the reg/rec. Otherwise, probably the stator, or both. Don't buy anything until you do your homework. I asked here first and got a wealth of useful info from the guys. My first test was going to be the reg/rec, but that was a bugger to get to on my bike. So, I unplugged the stator from the loom (3-pins), and while the bike was running, and checked the voltage. I wasn't expecting a flat ZERO, but that is what I got. I pulled the cover off the stator and had no resistance (should have a magnetic pull). Sure enough, it was burnt to a crisp. So, new one on and boom - charging 14+ volts, instead of battery being at 12.5...12.4....12.3... The other thing (if the stator was fine) would have been to disconnect the reg/rec and check each pin to test each diode. There are a few tutorials on YT on how to do this. But, even if the diode test proves nothing, there still could be issues with it. But, you already replaced that. Fingers crossed it keeps working for you.

Righty, then. The problem has been fixed. I no longer have a use for my old keys, other than the central locking. I removed the steering wheel by butchering my way into it, and having to remove the airbag. (The front of the steering wheel is no longer there). Then after faffing about trying to locate my torx keys, I got the lot apart, even removing the entire steering wheel, just to get access to the ignition barrel. I then proceeded to smash it out with a mallet and flat head screw-driver. Removed the bolt and re-fitted the wheel. Then I soldiered a new loom, using the Kawasaki ZZR600D ignition and the electric starter (from a Honda CB500), and fitted it to the existing loom, bolting the ignition to the dash. The next bit was making sure that the chip out of the battery was secured inside the immobilizer coil, and a quick test - it works. Massive bodge job, but it works.

The plot thickens. It's starting to sound like fuel, mate. My suspect would definitely be some crap got through to the carbs.

Cheers, all. I found that the key was too far down, and such a short part of the key to enable me to extract it. After getting so wound up, I pulled out a powerful drill and bored the crap out of it, all the way down, so that the wires fell out. I sat there covered in metal shavings, feeling a bit better about getting the frustration out, before calmly locking the doors and going back indoors. The next thing is going to be wiring up a switch and button to start it, after I eventually manage to get to the steering lock. That was the other bit that bothered me - I cannot get to that steering lock. Maybe just scrap it... it's an old diesel hack, covered in dents, smokes like mad, doubtful it will ever pass another MOT, and it stinks inside. For now, Triumph - you are my only wheels.

Did it start with the old plugs in? What state are the plugs in? Have you checked the gap? Are they sparking? Are the coils ok? There are a billion ways to go with this. You could do a few basic checks with the spark plugs, checking the air filter and airbox, to cleaning the carbs out. Start with checking plugs, coils and leads, and work your way round each part of the system. Spark, air, fuel, exhaust.

Whoopsie! They needed replacing anyway. I have a crude fix to the coolant pipe, due to not having enough time to get a jubilee clip (or equivalent) - so I have two cable ties holding it tight . I need to spend some good quality time with my bike, replacing the coolant, brake fluid, check valve clearances, and eventually replace that fuel gauge (since once of the wires has come out of it... can't fix that).

That's the ones - part 20. Found some new ones and got them on order... Not really sure on the torque settings, now. I rode it in to Cheltenham and forgot my tester. I wanted to verify it was still giving me 14+ volts, but it felt fine riding it in, all of the way. Fingers crossed, no more issues. The idle was spot on.

Finally got round to changing the stator and it is perfect, with the exception of a few the bolts shearing when trying to torque up the cover. It hadn't been opened since birth, so that gasket was fun to scrape off. Took me over an hour. No idea where to get the 8mm bolts.

Car, this time. On Wednesday. I had literally no idea it had happened until it came to go home. I put my key in the ignition and it didn't turn. So, I wriggled it, and giggled it, and screamed at it, swore at it, and finally it dawned on me that my key looked a little bit shorter than normal. This was after I assumed that the pins were just stuck, and thrust a wooden stick down the barrel... pushing the rest of it in further . Then I pulled off the plastics around the column and started reviewing my options. Couldn't even start to hot wire it because the steering lock was on. I have very powerful back and arms, and could only pull the steering wheel so far before I realised that I was doing more damage to the column than anything - so gave up on that idea. Mr AA man turned up 2 and a half hours later in a van, and because the wheels were pointing right he couldn't tow me. So, he called a truck, which he said would have skates. Turned up at 10:30pm with no skates, and almost didn't manage to hoist the motor on, because some plank abandoned their BMW at the entrance to the car park, obstructing the truck backing in. He managed to only just get the damned thing in and pull the wretched car onto the back. Then I got home for near midnight, dumping the car outside the house. The car is a cheap 2000 (W Reg) Peugeot 306 runaround and going to try and get the lock sorted out tomorrow (after I fit the stator on my bike, so I can use it again). By 'sort it out', I mean by force. Drill or screwdriver + hammer. I'm not worried about it, as I'm going to scrap it by MOT day next year. Does anyone have any expert advice, before I try to demolish the barrel, or dismantle it?

Motorway riding is 90% of my daily 100 mile commute. I like it because there are no cyclists. But, in place of the lycra is lorries overtaking lorries, overtaking lorries, overtaking lorries. I find it hard to be able to sit amongst the moving traffic, so find myself in lane 3 almost the entire journey Been stuck in a 2000 1.9D Renault this past week (bloody alternator), so adds another hour to my commute. I miss my bike...

It certainly seems to be a widespread issue with these bikes. Ah, well - new alternatory-stator winding thingymajig should be here hopefully this week, so that will be fitted at the earliest chance I get. As for the bike garage up here that I asked about part ex'ing, they came back about it, offering me £1k offset against a £2.2k Honda Blackbird... Been umming and arring about it...

I read up a bit of information on here that will be useful... https://www.motohowto.com/content/replacing-stator-and-rr-rectifier-regulator-triumph-speed-triple-2006 I managed to find another stator that claims to be better than the OEM one. The regulator might have issues, so I'll get that off at some point soon and check the diodes. It's just a nightmare finding the time to get everything done. That stator was the most fried that I've seen.

Cheers. Soon as I get a chance I'll go find a replacement, and a new gasket. I haven't checked the RR, yet. Too busy today

Oh, dear...

He probably had too many of me come plobbering through at warp speed and spanking everyone's mirrors with my own.

Think it's stuffed anyway. I hooked up the old ytx12 battery and got it from home to work (50-ish miles). The clock died on the M5, until I turned the lights off, and the digits came back again. I kept plodding along and got the multimeter out the second I got off. Reading about 11v . I got it on charge now. The Haynes manual didn't give much info on the rectifier. Looks like I'll need to do some diagnostics.

I think that's what I'll do. I haven't even rigged up my heated grips yet. While I was getting my front tyre changed, the mechanic checked the charging as it ran (had to jump it, because it was flat by the time I got there). And, we got 11v, barely getting any higher with revs. He said, straight away that he suspects a fault in the charging system, but being as it's a pain to get to the rectifier (next to rear suspension) and it seems to be OK with another battery, I'll play it by ear for now. Might hold off fitting the grips.