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SlowBusa

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Posts posted by SlowBusa

  1. Just for my own information, what is the process of carrying out a compression test ? The bit that's puzzling me is why you need to accurately measure TDC . I don't know but I would have thought that you simply attach a compression gauge , rotate the engine THROUGH TDC and read off the highest pressure that is indicated . Surely the highest reading will occur at TDC anyway . If you are going to determine TDC with a straw or depth gauge before attaching a compression gauge , how do you then create any pressure in the combustion chamber to measure ?

     

    Screw in the compression tester,


    make sure all other cylinders Dont have spark plugs in (so engine turns over at least 300rpm)


    Also turning the engine over by hand wont generate enough pressure to read properly so has to be done with starter motor


    If the TDC isnt accurate then the valve timing Will be off, and that seriously affects PSI

  2. How are you checking TDC?


    Im thinking valve timing too

     

    Now I'm starting to worry. I set the crank to T1 (I think - need to see photos) at the marker, and 1 piston up, 2 down. Both arrows on the cams were facing each other....

     

    Dont trust the TDC marker in the timing window use something like a straw down the plug hole and turn over till you know where the real TDC is

    I use on of these as a depth marker.....one tooth out will make a HUGE difference in PSI

    p.thumb.jpg.942e24e788579cf3738f5b60843f9354.jpg

  3. The carbon is there because the rings dont go all the way to the top

    Quick clean


    Cylinder crosshatch looks ok


    Head nice and clean


    The minor vertical marks are not too deep.....if to keep I would sort it but for resale I say bolt it all back together


    Your going faster than my rebuild....I forgot to take putty measurements so thats on the cards for Wednesday as i dont want to be riding with a potential bomb between my legs

  4. What were your compression readings and whats the PSI range for your bike?

     

    From what I remember, 1=165, 2=190, 3=170 just before I took it apart.

    Something like that. But, no idea what they're supposed to be, until I can find that pesky Haynes book.

     

    I did search and I think 170 psi is what its supposed to be lowest


    If one was below that your bike will run a bit "funky" when its cold.....until the heat expands the parts a bit and then seals properly


    Its happened to me


    And best to replace all the seals or you could be doing the same job twice :?

  5. Am I taking on too much here?

     

    Too late to have doubts now mate


    The fact you can remove the head without removing oil cooler and tilting engine forward saves you a lot of time


    I would be far more worried about the mating surfaces than the piston crowns


    Rust is not good there


    Start by cleaning the tops of the barrels with a soft rag and some sort of solvent then measuring the tolerance with a straight edge and feeler gauge


    Discoloration isnt a problem but rough surface is

  6. Fine replacing just rear


    people generally replace both so that the wear ratio is close ..... usually 2 rears to 1 front.....but some bikes vary

  7. I would say unlikely to be rings on that low a milage.

    I would go with new spark plugs and Spraying electrics with WD40, if it runs on both cylinders it will burn off oil in cylinder...

     

    I gotta agree with onesea

    Try new plugs first


    Just a note dont torque plugs down hard.....about 8-10 lbs is all they will need


    high torque risks stripping the spark plug thread

  8. What mileage has it done?


    Which Cylinder is the dark plug from?


    How bad is oil consumption?


    Dont believe them if they claim its the rings without doing a leak down test


    You run the risk of a unscrupulous mechanic taking the piss because you are a woman ...although a bad mechanic will take the piss out of anyone who


    dosnt know what a spindle flang rotating potato is

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