NearOn

No one around to help, and been meaning to buy a new battery for a while so bought one, still doesnt start though, mobile mechanic during the week it is I reckon, unless anyone around in Norwich area that could help? cheers

Must be the battery as just clicking now, not turning over, got some jump leads so will give this a go if neighbours are in.

Cheers for all the advice, I am now thinking is the battery and wasnt strong enough as I have just been out and kept key in position so it kept turning over, however the wuring started to slow after 10 secs or so and then just turned into clicking with the dash lights and headlights flashing.

lol shows how much I know

I always wait for the heater plug light to go out, (looks like a coil), but tonight didnt start once tried it after that went out. I did notice at one point the heater plug flashed a few times but that was after I kept trying to start it constantly Ill go out now and give it another go like advised above.

I have no idea where to check if glowplugs are getting warm

Im pretty sure didnt run out of fuel, as have driven it quite a few times with it right on the empty line, but maybe could be that.

p.s battery was fine according to a test thing I have, but lights got dimmer the more I tried it earlier.

Obviously this is a bike forum and normally never mention my cage lol, but tonight in the freezing cold, it would not start. All the dash lights come on, and headlights etc, the coil light goes off after a few secs as per normal. Then go to start and is trying to turn over but doesn't sound like it is firing.

It was near Empty line so i went and got some fuel and topped it up, so is now a bit above the E which is normally more than enough. I know very little about car mechanics, but im guessing it might be spark plugs if isnt firing as def turning over.

Any help be much appreciated, cheers!

Thats why I went DAS

But did you save at least £400 notes?

Just an idea if you are thinking of going it alone...visit the test centre on a day they are doing Mod 1's you will can the course and watch others doing it..then go away and practice..and as, has already been said...observations all the time as if you are 'on the road'

They are looking for slow control, ie u turns, slalom, figure of eight and the emergency stop.

Also worth looking more at what the 50kph swerve avoidance test involves

This is what I did, went to test centre a few weeks before MOD1 and saw the layout and watched a couple. I did my A2 licence on my own varadero 125 without any training, just a years riding experience. Failed MOD 1 first time, passed it 2nd time. All I can say about that is have a go, if fail, you will be more than ready for 2nd time round. They tell you where you go wrong, so know what to do for 2nd go if need it.

On MOD 2, is pretty straight forward, if been riding around on a 125 for a while, do same on that just remember to do everything by the book.

Which leads me onto my biggest help to pass MOD 1 and MOD 2, "Learn to Ride" Book, has so much information in it and helped me loads. Give it a look.

Ouch, hope you and the bike are ok!

Here's the list taken from DSA website, should tell you if your bike is suitable

http://www.dft.gov.uk/dsa/documents/dg/dsa_motorcycle_minimum_test_vehicles.pdf

For £230 you could get yourself a new RST Rift Leather Jacket and trousers, which is only slightly more than the link you posted. I can vouch for the jacket, is well made, and very comfy.

Nice one on MOD 1, don't worry about the sun, I did my MOD 2 Nov last year, ull be fine, book it!!

Usually Draggin Jeans, Leather Jacket,and boots, never use trainers, one of areas most open to damage in an accident are the legs,feet etc as most already know.

Cant you just get like the dates from the training school they can do, then just ring DSA and am sure if have like 2 weeks worth of dates, a test date be free somewhere amongst those?

Want to try avoid drilling, the guy got it off is going to get back to me as he might know.

So does Norwich, practice both

I have changed the filler cap tho, thats whole point, dont want to end up buying a third fuel cap. Must be a way to change the lock, what goes in must come out.

Ill give it but dont have original key for the lock I have just bought. Might try post some pics,see if that helps.

I have bought a replacement fuel cap second hand for my hornet. It came off a 98 Hornet and mine is 99. Obviously my key wont work as different barrell lock. It didnt come with a key, so my only option is to change the lock barrell so take my one out and fit into new fuel cap.

However I cant see how to do it? I was under impression there would be a circlip sort of thing but only similar thing can see to that is a plastic cap on bottom of lock, do i need to remove this to do it?

If the bike you go for is a carb bike, older bikes, it will be the 4 washers, which do differ so like cypek said, make sure get the right ones, usually best on fleabay to get them cheap. A lot of the newer bikes are throttle stop restrictions.

If you mean how many, there are 4 washers that fit in the carb inlets, the washers have small holes in them, which restrict the bike down to 33bhp. If you look on flea bay, type in restrictor kit and will see quite a few available nowadays and far far cheaper than going though F1 International AKA Major Rip off restrictor company.

Just washers in the carbs on the hornet. Restricted 600s will out do pretty much any car off the line, and like cypek said, you wont need to red line it and certainly dont be taken in by the restricted certificate crap, they legally have no standing, just ensure bike is restricted according to licence incase accident, police stop you etc.

Going from a 125 to a restricted 600, ull notice the difference straight away, and they are more than enough reving through the gears for overtakes, where it differs to a normal 600 is the top end, it wont keep going, it will steady out at around a ton. Where as unrestricted, obviously on a private road, will keep going up and up.

p.s I can recommend hornets, have a 99 Hornet, fairly easy to maintain, and good 1st big bike, and the washers are only 25 quid off ebay to restrict.

I did over a year ago, I got one size up and didnt fit, so sent back and got 2 sizes up and is a good fit. To be honest though think next time Ill just spend a bit more and buy locally. Its def not a official licensed product but is well made and still in good condition. Mine was shipped from Pakistan. Hope this is of some help.

Doing it yourself seems like a good idea, I bought a belly pan for my hornet, and sanded the old paint down etc, then primer, metallic base coat, and colour coded coat, clear coat, but still ended up quite a bit of a way off a pro finish, however only going on bottom of bike. Id suggest if is going to be very visable, best to get a shop to do it.

Thanks for replys, most people on here and elsewhere are saying check the chain for tight spots, now I tried to follow the Haynes manual but just dont get what im looking for, and how to get rid of any tight spots? cheers