mealexme

I taped some hose to the vacuum cleaner, and that seems to have got all the visible particles. I can't see anything else down there. Now to hope that nothing has gotten into the combustion chamber and pray before I hit the start button. Thanks for all your help! Dear motorcycles gods, today I ask for your forgiveness for my incompetence. I would like to thank you for all you have given me. All the fun, freedom and sense of community I wouldn't get from driving a car. If you could grant me the miracle of life when I press the starter button, without any scoring or other detrimental engine issues, I will be eternally grateful. Amen.

Oh, also, I do have a can of pressurized air (I bought it to clean the keyboard, and its not very powerful but I might give it a go, aswell as a vacuum cleaner).I don't know the ins and outs of the engine. It looks like the valves are closed at the moment. Are they all likely to be fully closed when the engine is off, or is one of the valves for one of the cylinders likely to be open? If that makes sense? I want to make sure I'm not forcing the dirt into the cylinders with compressed air. The bikes fuel injected if that makes a difference

unfortunately I've not had a chance to work on it today. I had to give my friends mother and daughter a lift to see her in hospital, plus its been raining all day, and I've not got a cover to work under As for a photo - the million out of focus photo's I've tried taking on the phone would suggest that the answer is no I did have another look today though and I still can't tell what it is thats down there, sat on the intake valve. I did have the air filter out the other day and tried to clean out the area in front of the filter, which was full of dust/dirt, which may have fallen down. I couldn't see anything glistening in the torch light, so I'm still unsure if its small metal shavings or dirt. Either way, I think the plan for tomorrow is to get a magnet, then some bluetack and finally a vasalene soaked rag. My other worry then is what Vaseline is going to do if any residue is left over. I think a pray to the motorcycle gods is in order, before I hit the start button. Thanks for the help, I'll let you all know if any blue smoke appears in the next few days...

I dont think its parts of the EZ out. The tool looks complete. I think its more just bits of dust/dirt from the air filter to be honest, but theres a chance of there being tiny bits of the bolt that was drilled out sat in there too. There are probably 3 or 4 bits there in total, that look about the size of grains of sand. The bit that snapped off has been removed I was hoping for "it will be fine" rather than "it will destroy your engine"

So I thought it would be a good idea to fit a quick throttle, which involved removing the air box to get to the "other" throttle cable adjusters. Anyway, the problem is, a bolt had seized and had to be drilled out (I rounded the head, then EZ outed it, which snapped it half way down) and as a result, and because of where the bolt was located, I think a bit of metal shavings and/or grit (the air box was dirty) has entered the engine. Having a look with the throttle open, I can see a few grit sized bits resting on the intake/exhaust valve (not sure which). Are these going to do any damage to the engine if they get into the combustion chamber? Are they going to act like sand paper or are they likely to literally get sucked into the chamber and either burnt to dust or blown straight out of the exhaust? I guess I'm just looking for a bit of reassurance at the moment, because there's not an awful lot I can do about it at the moment

True, but my local dealer charges £40/50 an hour, so basically that's them saying it will take them 3 hours to bleed the brakes, because parts won't be included in that price, its just labor, which is extreme. I swear when I replaced and bled my lines, it took about 2 hours and that's with me taking my time

Just a hint, but putting the rear wheel back on might help with transportation Looks like a fun build. But if is a non-working model, it will be interesting to see what you come up with, since your making essentially an electric bike, without the motor. How are you planning on building it? With bits from other bikes or are you custom-making parts?

Hey Glorian The squeal usually comes from the vibration between the brake pads and the pistons in the caliper, so it's best to put some grease on the BACK of the pads - the bit between the pad and piston, but it might also help to put some on the pin that the pads sit on. Basically, anything the pads touch EXCEPT THE CALLIPERS.

http:// " onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I'm in Plymouth(ish) Getting them professionally cleaned sounds expensive

Hey guys, I've not really been around much due to moving house and standing on my laptop - which was barely being used before I broke it, plus I find typing on my phone a hassle, so I'll keep this short. So, basically my ninja has been running rough since I bought it, with a rough idle speed too. Its got 40k on the clocks and doesn't look like it's been maintained much in its 16 year life. So when I got it I did the basics. Replaced the air filter, sparkplug, cleaned the carbs and it was still running rough, so I tried balancing the carbs, because I figured even if it's not the problem, it won't harm doing them. So I start her up and try to ballance the carbs and the carb on the far right starts spitting fuel out at me. I'll upload the video when I figure out how to do it on my phone Anyone got any idea what it could be? I've got a Haynes manual and want to fix it myself, but need someone to point me in the right direction first Many thanks, Alex

Getting there. http://www.themotorbikeforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=59741" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Hopefully starting on the brakes today

The sticky throttle issue has now been fixed. After taking the grip off, lubing everything up including the cables, the issue still persisted. Luckily, before buying a new throttle cable, I decided to re-route the cable. As good as new

One of the first things I noticed when picking up the bike is a problem with the ignition barrel. When trying to insert or remove the key, the key jams. Once its in however, it works smoothly, which to me suggests there is an issue with the key getting stuck in the barrel, or the key getting stuck on the wafers. (for those who don't know about locks, heres how a motorcycle lock works "> " onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) If you try and get a key direct from Kawasaki, they can be stupid money, but luckily you can buy anything online these days. Just over a fiver for a replacement key delivered to my door, thank you Mr Ebay Unfortunately a new key makes no difference what so ever, so it looks like I'll be taking the ignition barrel apart to have a look at the wafers Problem is, these tamper proof bolts http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160311_151249_zpsd4llhksq.jpg Which have to be drilled http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160312_125918_zps4ha4mbav.jpg Before removing the wafers http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160312_140533_zps2uae7pl2.jpg Cleaning them all up and putting them all back in http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160312_143547_zps0orzvkka.jpg It's as easy as that. Unfortunately it doesn't quite move as smoothly as a brand new lock, but its 16 years old and no longer do I have to use so much force to get the key out that the bike almost comes off the stand.

Managed to get them out with a combination of drilling (not centered due to the thickness of the drill and closeness of the bolt to the side of the ignition) and a center punch to tap the bolt anti-clockwise to get it out

So, as part of my ZX6r project, I want to get into the ignition barrel to fix the problem I have with inserting/removing the key. Basically, the key works fine on the seat lock and petrol tank, it also turns smoothly once the the key is inserted and WD-40 makes no difference. So, I'm thinking that one of the wafers is either bent of severely worn/rusted. I had a look at it on the bike, and was hoping there would be a couple of bolts underneath to get into it, but nothing. All there is are these bolts which look like they have ben over tightened to the point that the heads have snapped to prevent tampering. http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160311_151249_zpsd4llhksq.jpg So now I'm wondering the best way in. I know extractor kits work well on wood screws, but are they heavy duty enough to remove bolts which I can only presume have also been treated with loctite? Otherwise the only other option I'm left with is drilling them out, but the way I've done this in the past is by drilling the head off, to allow the pieces to separate, then using pliars to extract the rest of the bolt - which won't work in this scenario. So any help would be appreciated, and any links to tools I should get would also be helpful. Last time I tried to buy drill bits for metal work, I think I ended up buying wood bits

Really? I thought the more pots the better?

I posted on this site almost 6 months ago about buying a ZX6R to do up over the winter. Here she is http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123100_zpsoly2gx5x.jpg http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123053_zpsclacsjui.jpg So what's wrong with her? Maybe its easier to tell you whats right. Well, it serves well to reserve my parking space whilst I'm out... And what's wrong? Well, how long do you have? Having not ridden it since that one week in October I spent commuting on it to find any issues, the following is from memory: [strikeout]The key is hard to get into the ignition barrel and gets stuck when trying to remove[/strikeout] Handle bars/forks are bent There is a slight shake in the handle bars at about 85/90mph which disappears at 95+ (not good if I want to take it onto track) [strikeout]Throttle cable sticks[/strikeout] Seems to lack power down low (which could simply be due to it being a 15 year old bike and may not actually be an issue) Judders at low revs, like it's struggling more than it should Rough idle Front headlight cracked http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123108_zpsodjrrwuf.jpg Every panel either cracked or scratched http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123126_zpsjpgli1tc.jpg http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123214_zpsgqbzlzeu.jpg http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123244_zpsccqsomm5.jpg http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123126_zpsjpgli1tc.jpg Paint on the frame and engine casing looks original, but looks as though it's either running or had something spilt in it, leaving streaks in the paint http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123517_zpspg5xsukl.jpg http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123159_zpsbidux1lq.jpg The whole chain bright orange with encrusted rust Rear tyre bold http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd519/mealexme/bike/20160308_123353_zpsm2jemafd.jpg Front brakes both drag and are ineffective at stopping. And after all of that, would you believe I bought it with a fresh MOT? Also it's a cat C, with no mention of which in the description Anyway, now I have some spare time, a bit of spare cash after saving up all my pennies to move out (moved 2 weeks ago), it being lighter longer and actually warming up, I can finally get round to fixing her up.

God dammit guys! That looks like a great TV, but now I'm looking on currys and for an extra £30 I could get a 50". Its not 4k, and "only" 800 Hz, but it's 50 friggin inch! http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/tv-and-hom ... 3-pdt.html Oh I don't know. What's better for xbox/playstation and movies? Is there much difference in HD and 4K when watching films that are only recorded in HD form? And is 800 hz good enough to play movies and games without any lag or blurriness?

Not a massive fan of curved TV's. I've been looking at (and decided against) the Panasonic tx-40cx400b. Apparently it's not actually a Panasonic, but some other brand with a Panasonic badge. Then I started looking at the SAMSUNG UE43J5600. I can't find many reviews on it, but the reviews for the UE43J5500 are quite good. The only difference between the 5600 and 5500 that I can see is the PQI. Annoyingly they don't give a frame rate, but PQI supposedly takes that into account. The 5500 has a PQI of 300 and the 5600 is 400. It seems like the 5600 is the updated version, but I'm not 100% sure, so it seems we are on the same wave length on the Samsung TV's. Question is, would it be good for an xbox and films?

Ok, so this is a motorcycle forum, so I will try and throw in some motorcycle related info. Basically, I saw a cheap 4k TV for sale at a reduced to clear price of around £350. 4K, smart TV, 42" and all that good stuff, so I did some research into it and it seems to have a mixture of reviews. Half of which are 5 star and the other half 1 star. It seems its a great TV for everything except watching sport (motogp) movies (wild hogs) and playing games (motogp) - [see. I told you I'd keep it motorcycle related]. Dammit. That's all I use the TV for. I don't need a the youtube/iplayer apps, I don't need wi-fi or facebook on my tv, I don't really need 4k (although it would be nice) and it doesn't have to be this years model. All I really want is a good quality HD TV that shows games and movies. Can anyone in the know recommend me a TV thats full hd, over 42" and can play movies and games smoothly, or let me know exactly what I should be looking for to find that "perfect" tv of around £350? I realise my price point may be an issue, but hey-ho.

So your saying that you've been on other forums, didn't like what they were saying so created an account here? Welcome to the forum. Please say hi in the newbies section With the engine off and in neutral, try pushing it to be sure the brakes arent sticking. If you've gone down on the brake lever, it's possible that what is left of your lever is bent and causing the brakes to stick. Apart from that, I can't see it doing anything to restrict the power. Usually it would be fine or plain won't start up. I mean, it could be possible that the bash has shifted the bar end into the throttle and is causing it to stick, causing the feeling of lower power. Try (again with the engine off) pulling back the throttle all the way, then letting go. It should snap back quickly. Other than that, I'm out of ideas. Good luck, but I should probably add that fuel shouldn't get onto the air filter, but even if it did, it wouldnt be much and should evaporate out pretty quickly

The engine is probably spinning, but the chain isn't catching because its too loose Edit: If the chain came off, there is a possibility it may have damaged something. If the chain tension doesn't sort it, then try taking the cover off the front sprocket so you can see it and try looking at it whilst you (or a friend) put it in gear and try again. It sounds like the chain has been neglected for years, so it's possible the front (or rear) sprocket teeth have worn down, again, causing the sprocket to spin and not catch on the chain. But viewing it will tell you if the sprocket is spinning in the first place.

If its a know problem, let me know because I have the same issue. I just figured it was a loose connection somewhere, but its not been cold enough for me to bother to trace the wires though.

So, its mot time (woo) and there are a couple of things I'm unsure about to whether it will pass. One of which is the cap which covers the rear of the headlight housing to access the bulb is missing. Is this an MOT fail, because there is potential for water to get into the headlight unit, but I've been riding with it off, through the rain since last summer, I keep meaning to replace it, but no water has got in there so far. If it is an MOT fail, will a bit of masking tape over the gap be sufficient just to get through the MOT?

So, I took the ninja apart a while back to clean the carbs and help sort out some running issues. The bike hasn't been started for a good month or 2 now, but I put it back together and tried pushing it down the hill in gear to start it up (flat battery) Nothing. Well, not nothing nothing, but it didnt start. The engine turned over, dash lights turned on briefly and the bike came to a holt. I tried again and again with the same problem. So, I decided that the imobiliser in the alarm was probably causing an issue. However, after connecting the two bikes together with the cables, the alarm didn't go off as I'd expecting it to. Infact, it "reminded me" to set the alarm every time I turned the ignition off, so I'm fairly sure its deactivated, however, the fob has stopped connecting with the alarm, it keeps saying there is no signal, so I cannot arm/disarm it by remote. Anyway, long story short, thee plugs arent sparking. I've tried different plugs (still have the old ones) and still nothing. I got the multimeter out and put it on the beep setting (yeah, I dont have a clue what thats called) and each plug has a red wire an a white wire. The red wires beep, but the whites do not. Personally, I have no idea what that even means, I'm just sticking my multimeter in parts of the bike in a hope that the bike has feelings and I annoy it enough that it will just start on its own to stop me prodding it any longer Oh, and all the fuses are ok. I swapped the fuse for the horn (or lights. can't remember) with the IGN fuse just to be sure