mealexme

I've never ridden a bike new enough to have ABS and they've got bikes riding around with KITT on them now?!

I'm sorry to hear that they've just got rid of your entitlement. I hope you get it sorted. On a lighter note, I've just checked my own licence, and realised I have category K, which apparently means I can ride a "mowing machine or vehicle controlled by someone on foot", so that's... Good

Happy birthday

Ebay is good for service kits. I'm not familiar with Daelim, but here's a link for what I think is your bike Link to ebay it's got the spark plugs, oil and oil filter but you'd have to delve a bit deeper to find an air filter

Out of curiosity, check the battery and see if it's lost charge, which as Stu says, could potentially cause errors. If there's nothing draining the power, it could be the reg/rec not charging the battery whilst you ride, so it slowly drains and throws up error codes as it does so? I could also be way off the mark, as I'm no mechanic, but may be worth a look if you've been over everything else

My first thought is it sounds like the chain rubbing on the swing arm. If that's the case, you just need to Tighten the chain. Chain slack is a maintenance item that is often overlooked, and its an easy thing to measure (and change) yourself. Measuring the slack is easy to do. All you need is a tape measure. On the mt-125 there should be a little arrow on the swingarm pointing towards the chain; this is where you check the tension. The slack should be 35mm-45mm. To check it, pull the chain all the way up at the arrow mark, then push it down as far as it goes. The slack is the amount it moves between those two points. There are also plenty of YouTube tutorials which will show how to do it.

Happy birthday

Ignore that, that link doesn't have anything useful. So, I had a bit of a search and couldn't find a lot The best advice I can give you is keep an eye on ebay for something used, or go back to who ever imported and ask if they can help I found one guy on ebay that looks like he imports a few bits to the UK. If all else fails, maybe contact him and see if he can source/ship something out for you. His username is SLDUK as for the part number, scroll down to page 17 on http://puzey.co.za/spares/Megelli Sport 125/fullPartsCatalogue.pdf

Try https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/manufacturers/Megelli If not, then see if you can find a part number for it, then paste it into Google and see if it comes up with anything. I'll have a proper look tomorrow and see what I can find for you

Thanks guys, that gives me some stuff to look at over the weekend! Yes, I calibrated both separately and they were both accurate I normally just put premium in the tank tbh. I'll make sure I check when I fill up. I'll also probably mess around with the settings after I replace the jets/filters etc, which I'll do over the weekend if I get a chance

£120? You've done very well on that budget!

Very well done, the bike looks so much better. You and I are very different people though. My bike is in similar condition to what yours was at the beginning. I just choose to look the other way How much did it cost you all in all?

How Did you get on with your search? Just to Mirror what @Fiddlesticks was saying, Chinese bikes are cheap, but they're cheap due to there lower quality. My personal opinion on them is that the quality has got better over the years but they are not suited for someone just getting into bikes, as they require more maintaining than a Japanese bike (Yahama, Honda, suzuki etc) Places to look for bikes: Autotrader is a good place to start as you can filter results based on what you're looking for, but once you have an idea what bike you want, you seem to be able to find cheaper bikes on Facebook marketplace and Gumtree. As for gear, there is a saying in the biker community which is All The Gear All The Time (ATGATT for short). Even at 30mph, if you go down Jeans won't protect you much, and you'll walk away with a load of skin missing. So, with that in mind: Helmet - for into a store and ask for advice from a salesperson. The reason I say this, is because fitment is really important. A cheap, well fitting helmet will protect you much better than an expensive, I'll fitting one. Jacket - something with protection in the elbows, shoulders and back. You can get leather, textile or mesh. Some are waterproof, others are not, so it's always best to read the description. Gloves - I'd go for leather or gortex. I currently have some winter gloves I'm using and they are falling apart from just touching the throttle, so I doubt they'll hold up in a crash. Look out for something with a bit of protection on the kuckles and palm of the hand. Trousers - look out for protection on the knees and hips. Also, try and get a jacket and trousers with compatible zips, as they'll connect together, preventing the jacket from rising up, especially if you come off. Boots - don't get anything laced, as the laces can get caught in the peddles and you can end up falling over/dropping the bike when you come to a stop. Ideally, try and get something that covers the shin, as it will give extra protection. You can try marketplace/gumtree for used gear to keep the costs down, but never get a second hand helmet because it may have been dropped (you'll need to buy a new one if dropped, as it can be damaged inside) and the helmet will naturally mold to the shape of the head of the wearer over time, which compresses the cushioning of the helmet and reduces its effectiveness

Cheers Stu, it's nice to see some familiar people still on here. Also, thanks @Bender, I'll order a carb kit, which includes new fuel filters and just replace the lot

Cheers Rennie. Good to be back tbh, aswell as back into bikes in general

Great food, large portions and plenty of motorcycle parking. You would however struggle to park with a trike/sidecar

Adding to the navigation. I always run the Waze app. If you're not familiar, it's a great little navigational app owned by Google, but has the added benefit of showing user generated hazards on the road and its completely free. So, for example if there's a pothole and the person on front of you flags it on their map, it will show on yours. Same as roadworks, floods, accidents, cars stopped in live lanes, heavy traffic etc etc etc. It's great for riding in places you've never been before, and has the added benifits of showing the speed limit for the road your on, aswell as your speed through GPS, and has the option to report police, which most people use to alert others of speed camera vans etc. Also, if you don't like the navigation, you can leave it running in the background and it will still alert you of hazards on the road ahead through your headphones/intercom system. As for bags, I don't have much to say on the subject apart from, if you get a tank bag, make sure you get one that has easy access to your fuel filler tank.

Hi guys, I picked up a 2002 SV650 a few months ago. The bike has carburettors and a previous owner installed an aftermarket slip on exhaust, with the removable baffle still in. What I'm finding is that its hard to start in the mornings (even on full choke) and it coughs/splutters on idle. It start's ok in the evenings, but still coughs and splutters on idle. My worry is that if it's struggling now, whilst we have unseasonably warm weather, it may fail to start at all when the winter hits. It does also feel underpowered and lumpy when I'm riding, but I'm not sure if that's in my head as I've not ridden in 2 years and my last bike had a lot more power with a smoother 4 cylinder engine, so it may be underpowered and lumpy or it could be what a normal 2 cylinder SV650 from that year feels like to ride. I did a service when I first got the bike, changing the spark plugs with genuine NGK platinum's, the oil with compatible Castrol and the air filter with an OEM filter. I also installed a new battery as I had one lying around, but the old one still felt like it had plenty of charge. I've cleaned the carbs but couldn't see any dirt or grime in there, and re-adjusted the pilot screw to OEM specs at the same time, which seemed to have tamed the pops and bangs that were happening. As part of the service and general looking over the bike, I checked the valve clearances, which are within tolerance and the chain looks good, with no wear on the chain or guides and good tension I've also balanced the carbs using a generic tool, which indicates that there could be an air leak at the intake manifold or heat riser (whatever that is?) I sprayed a butt load of carb cleaner all around the carbs/airbox area, but couldn't see any obvious leaks, but there were a couple of cracks. Firstly a perished rubber on the airbox, which I'll get replaced as soon as I can find somewhere that doesn't want to charge me £15 for a tiny rubber cap. Although it looks like it's done for, a squirt of carb cleaner would suggest that it's still doing it's job, and sealing off the pipe Also, whatever this is (between the carbs and engine), looks as though it's starting to crack. But again, a squirt of carb cleaner would suggest it is not letting air past. I've had a look over the HT leads and can't see anything obvious. I took them off and stuck a multimeter on them (on settings Ω @200k, because that's what YouTube told me to do haha) recording a resistance of 26.0 and 26.7. I have no idea if that's good, but it's consistent. Spark plugs have been in for a few hundred miles now, mainly doing short rides of about 10 mins of commute. They look OK to me, aren't wet, don't smell like fuel or oil or anything really. I thought I'd include some pictures though as someone may be able to look at them and see if the fuel/air mixture is wrong just by looking at them. My current thoughts are that I need to replace the rubber cap in the airbox even though it is still sealing it (for now) The carburettors may need adjusting, to make it run smoothly with the slip on exhaust, although I would have thought it would work ok as it's just a slip on and has the baffle in The carb internals may benefit from just being replaced with a new carb kit I've been living the last year on under minimum wage, whilst still paying for a mortgage etc (first year apprentice), so I don't really have the money to just throw at it and hope for the best. Does anyone with a bit more experience have any idea of where I should be looking? Cheers in advance

Cool, thanks for the advice. I'm going to try a couple of these "buy my bike for cash" sites first, but u think they'll low ball me. As for actual dealers, the only big dealer around here only buys them if they're less than 5 years old I believe, and it's an 08 plate 600rr (the best year ) I remember you too The forums changed a bit, or at least it has on my phone anyway. Good to know people have stuck around!

Hi guys, some of you might remember me from years ago, but most of you probably won't. I've not posted in a while, and I've not ridden much either, so I've finally decided to sell up. The problem is, I've never sold a vehicle privately before and wouldn't know where to start in keeping the bike safe, but at the same time I can't sell without offering a test ride. How do I offer a test ride but stop the bike from getting stolen? The last thing I want to do is to give a complete stranger my keys! Side note - its mad to think I signed up to this site over 10 years ago, and the forum has offered a lot of great advice over the years and Ive made a lot of friends on here and had a lot of fun, so if anyone is still on here and reading this, thank you!

Wearing glasses

Talking of makes that are often overlooked, I used to have an SP engineering exhaust on my bandit. It was cheap, well made and great customer service. It was made by a bloke who took great care of his worl. I think he used to be part of this forum a long time ago, and I dont know if he still makes them, but if he does then I highly recommend him! I currently have an akrapovic on my CBR and my girlfriend says she can hear me coming down the road when shes sat on the sofa.

I have to agree, the fairings look a bit... busy. If you want to make it a bit more modern, then the CBR lights are a good way to go. I have smoked on mine, which aren't noticable when off (but bright enough when on) The only other thing I would say is that numberplate. Obviously I'm not going to tell you to do something illegal, but something smaller would look better on the rear - they always do on sports bikes imho

For average sold prices, ebay is a good place to look because you can toggle the filters to only show listings that have sold. It's great if your trying to sell a bike, because the weather can have an impact on the buying demand (less people buy in the winter), which can be reflected in the price. Same goes for soft top cars etc, whereas parker's and other guides just give an average price

I've had bits and pieces from them in the past too. They've always been great on price and delivery speed. They always used to send a keyring in your order too, but I dont know if they still do