jedibiker

Will the crush gasket required be the same as standard? with it being aftermarket.

these do look good. just need to check size needed. i think its 8mm by 40mm long comes to £10.51 for the set.

I get you now sorry, yes the nut needs to be brass, was looking for the lot in brass. lol

i think il need to get one out, looking on fowlers its just a bolt, but on a fz1000 they use similiar hex head studs to my bandit. nightmare lol i thought they would be like the photo (fazer 1000) although mine are not this style head

these are all i find, and im not even sure they are anything like what is fitted https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-Fazer-600-Stainless-Exhaust-Studs-and-Flange-Nuts-98-04-/123747233435

I need manifold bolts etc mate, thats a nut?

I installed new number plate leds. The ones on it never worked since i got the bike, but it still passed the MOT as the tail light kind of has clear part to do that. But, I wanted them working as its a little extra brightness at the back and wanted to practice soldering wires. lol. Well, I chose the thinnest wires ever to practice on, but got it done. Bought heat shrink too. Under the blue is individual heat shrinks on the wires, but wanted the bigger to add support. £6 for the leds so not bad. they come seperate so look like they could be used for all sorts.

Ok, trying to find them now. Most searches just show stainless.

Are they better than stainless?

Appreciate all the advice. Was going to get someone else to do it, but want to get used to doing these things..

100%, will be putting new ones in too

so this freezes the metal? in effect shrinks it?

thankyou,will look it up.

1 of them was really soft a while ago and snapped, but I didnt notice it wasnt moving the full bolt. Now id know to lubricate and maybe ease it back and forth. The pipes all join underneath but I do think the middle 2 might give just enough space. It is a terrible design, as anything you add to a bike should improve it.

@oldgrump Yeah, when I did the oil, I did try and see if the new filter would atleast go in before attempting taking the old out. And there was no way it would go no matter what way or how I tried it. I saw a fazer post on google about aftermarket pipes having to come off. So seems daft putting them on. If I'm going to take any off Il do all and give the frame a proper clean up etc. Just worry normal fazer bolts wont fit, they should I guess. So spray penetrating spray, then heat, let cool or try warm? Already lined up bolt extractors in case of the worse lol

Il take a look, Id not really thought about the crash bars to be honest. Il get a few pics so you can see better. Edit... the crash bars dont get the way at all.

Ah right, when I changed the oil, I tried all ways to see if I could even get the new oil filter in, and there was no way at all. Even undid it at the back etc. I read its not easy, but if different manifold put on then have to come off. Which is stupid. So changed oil with doing it again soon in mind. Kind of pointless I know, but at least had a clean out. Il get a proper photo tomorrow, its outside in the dark now.

Hi all.. I will need to change the oil filter on the mrs bike at some point, and it looks like someone fitted a different exhaust at some point and il not be able to get the filter off without dropping the exhaust. As you can see, the bolts look terrible, and from testing one, seem soft. They look nothing like ones ive seen on google for the fazer so guessing they used differnt bolts too. Anyone know if these look right or not? And, when searching for fazers, there are so many model types but all i know is its a 2003 fazer 600 lol. or fzs600. (search thing mentioned N,S models etc) I know its not much to go by sorry.

If you just want a cheap dash cam and will fit it to the front then these seem ok https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TB7WQ73/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07TB7WQ73&pd_rd_w=YOjCb&pf_rd_p=4c7674c8-9ecc-44d6-badd-dc77c2e64a92&pd_rd_wg=XM3Rc&pf_rd_r=D40MJHZ7HXQK2Q1TJT7K&pd_rd_r=ea44cd37-cdc4-45b4-bbcc-5f1b19b62cee&smid=A1AAV3JMAQRGLA&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMTRGUElDRDdPWTMxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQ2NzA2MzlNRVM4R0ZPMVM4SyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTE3MTc3MzlBSkMwQ1BTTjlMNCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Yeah thats the other problem. I looked at a few like the ghost but it seems the ghost footage is better than the tom tom one (that or garmin). Sony do one but I didnt like that either. There are some good side by side footage videos on youtube

Im not the best to ask. Youtube reviews show it was a pain in the arse early on, but when it works its really good. The wrist strap is rubbish too (on/off) but the appeal is 8hour battery life on most of them. Not sure about the 4k. I was looking at them as my mate get one ordered (XL) and I want something for my NC500 trip next year without taking loads of batteries for a go pro. But I do like the go pro footage so Im still undecided. As a dash cam style tool it these seem ideal.

I know, a mate just got the XL and is excited to use it with it being waterproof for his commutes.

Hi, we have crossed wires (pardon the pun). I will be wiring a relay on one bike via the battery as per the diagram above. So its got its own relay and will be placed with or near the other relays. The other way, is to locate a switched live wire, and splice into it. But I know its not ideal if the fuse is lower than that of the heated grips.

The power cable as its own fuse, but I realise that may be higher than a light fuse. I also guess the relay system just avoids messing with the bikes wiring. Its all new to me so enjoying looking into it.

So, I have a relay on the way and other bits n bobs for neat wiring. So one bike is getting that done. I also saw a video of someone just wiring the power cable from the grips into a already switched live cable, like rear light for example. Wouldn't that be a simpler solution? I have 2 bikes to wire so may try that on the other, unless there is a reason why we don't.