WD-40

That still looks like too much travel to me. Was that just from normal braking? You've pretty much fully compressed them. What air gap did you set them too? What weight are you?

If they've not leaked you could measure what comes out and put the same back in. Or you could look at the air gap in forks from similar bikes set it by that and if they're too soft add a bit more oil, if they're too firm take a bit out.

Nice work. You should test them before you put them back in the bike. A quick test is to blow air into the fuel inlet with your mouth. When the carbs are the right way up you should be able to blow air through the fuel inlet, then turn the carbs upside down, the float valves should close and seal up and you shouldn't be able to blow through them. If you can still blow through them the float valves are leaking. Or you can attach a fuel source and check for leaks around the gaskets or for petrol over flowing which would show a stuck float valves Another thing to think about. Since you fully disassembled the carbs you will have to balance them to get the bike running right.

Hi. You will find the screws on fowlersparts.co.uk You should check if you have power and ground on the connector going to the dashboard. If you have power and ground on the connector you know for sure the problem is on the dashboard. What year is your bike? A wiring diagram will tell you what wires to check to power and ground.

Did you figure it out? Have you put the damper bolt in? Once the damper bolt is in and tight the damper won't be able to move. On my bike you have to hold the damper still to tighten the bolt. If you don't hold it still it just turns when you turn the bolt. The common technique for holding it is to sharpen the end of a broom handle and jam it in the top of the damper to hold the damper still and then tighten the bolt Also if you let the fork stanchion fully bottom out the fork will lock together, don't know if that's what you're describing here but if you are you have to make sure that it doesn't fully bottom out

Go for a used Japanese bike. Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki. It'll be better quality, more reliable, no problems getting parts or information, any mechanic will work on it and it'll hold it's value when you sell it.

I think if you're doing engine work you definitely need one. For everything else you can get away without one. I got a Halfords 3/8" 8-60Nm one a few years ago to do valve clearances. It paid for itself by just doing that one job. Since then I use it anytime I do a job on the bike so definitely worth it to me.

Maybe the new cable is longer than the old one. You could put the new one and the old one side by side and compare the length of the two of them

No problem. Don't get too excited though it's not the correct manual for your bike. It's just one from a similar bike. You might get the correct one here http://manuals.piaggio.com/

its a video That is definitely way too soft That's what she said

What colour is the cut wire? Here's a manual for a Piaggio X9 125. It's not the same model bike as yours but it is a Piaggio 125 carb scooter so the coolant temp sensor setup is probably the same as your bike. The colour of the wiring could be different though. On the X9 the coolant temp sensor is a thermistor and that connects to the instrument panel. It's shown on page 139. The wiring diagram with the wire colours is on page 111. Based on that manual I'd say the cut wire goes from the senor through the bike's loom up to the instrument panel https://www.vespaforum.com/manuals/More%20Manuals/Piaggio/x9_125_180_Workshop_Manual.pdf

I feel bad for people that are starting out and don't know any better, spending their hard earned money on crap

A wiring diagram or workshop manual is what you need. If you can find that I'm sure someone can tell you where the wire goes. without that we can only guess where it goes. Does the bike have a temperature display or does it just have a temperature warning light? If it's just a warning light the wire might go to the connector that plugs into the instrument panel.

Going by that link it seems to only have one wire. You will have to find the cut wire and re-attach it. If you can find a workshop manual or wiring diagram you can confirm it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WATER-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-PIAGGIO-XEVO-X-EVO-125-2010-2015/361647245892?hash=item5433db0a44:g:g3AAAOSwTflcRF~j

Good idea. Let us know what they say. Is there a resistance spec given in the manual for the stator coil?

Is it definitely coming out the drain hole? Could be coming from higher up and collecting at the drain hole since that's the lowest point. Try running your finger around the bowl and feel if it's wet

I think you're talking about idle mixture screws? Don't adjust them. It's the idle speed adjuster that you need to adjust if the idle speed is too low

Idle speed adjustment is on Page 2-7 on this manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/bu43di24gaiwcgi/Kawasaki%20ZX6%20ZZR600%2090-97.pdf

There should be a separate idle speed adjuster. Have a look in your manual if you're not sure where it is. Start it up, get it warm and then set your idle speed with the adjuster. I think it should be around 1100 RPM on that bike. Hook up the rest of it and check for leaks and go for a short ride and see how it rides. Don't go too far though in case there's a problem.

Has it stopped leaking petrol? What's it doing when you ride it? What RPM is it idling at? Is the needle steady or bouncing around? When you rev it up and then release the throttle does the revs rise and then drop down quickly or does it come down gradually? It should rev up instantly and drop back down quickly, if it's coming down gradually there's a problem.

It's probably a bad connection. It could be in the bulb holder or in the wiring. You could try turning the indicator on and wiggle the bulb see if it comes on. Wiggle the wires and see if it comes on. Check for corrosion in the holder, give it a spray of wd40. If that doesn't do anything you could swap a working indicator from the right side and see if it works on the left side. If it does work you know the fault is in the bulb holder. Or you could disconnect the wires going to the bulb holder and touch them directly to a bulb. If the bulb comes on you know the bike's wiring is good and the problem is in the bulb holder. You would connect one wire to the center terminal on the back of the bulb and the other one to the metal body of the bulb.

I told him to keep em but he just wanted to take his bike and go. That's too bad. Going off the prices in the link, not sure if it's the exact bike. If they charged him £600 seems like they must have just put new camshafts in and not gone any further into the engine https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5596255/street-triple-r-from-vin-560477/camshaft-camshaft-drive?noredir=1

Another way you could do it would be electrolysis. Haven't done it myself but I think it works very well and only removes the rust

Did they take the head off and check the valves and pistons? Tell him to keep the broken cams and any other parts they replaced.

A friend of mine had a rusty tank in XV535. He did the nuts and bolts and shake it around method first. That loosened a lot of the big stuff. Then he bought two 5L bottles of apple cider vinegar and filled the tank and left it in there for a week. He gave it a shake every few days. The vinegar caused the rust to bubble off and left behind a dark grey metal. Then he used a tank sealer called POR15. It's a kit that comes with a cleaner, a metal prep and a sealer. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/por15-fuel-tank-sealer-kit-745267/ If the rust isn't too bad in your tank I wouldn't use a sealer. I'd just clean it out and keep an eye on it to see if the rust comes back. If it is bad you might need a sealer or just replace the tank