WD-40

The chain coming off the sprocket seems the most likely. Try putting it in gear, release the clutch and push it forward. Can you feel the resistance from engine compression? If yes the chain is on the sprocket. If no the chain if off the sprocket.

I thought that was going to be a video of the bike roaring into life! You could put a container under the carb and open the drain screw on the bowl and crank the engine and check if petrol is getting to each carb. Petrol should flow when you crank the engine. If you've got petrol in each carb you can check if you've got spark at the spark plugs. Take one out and ground it against the engine and crank the engine. Be careful not to shock yourself or burn the bike to the ground

It could be that the corroded terminal on the reg/rec causing high resistance so you're getting low voltage and current out of it. You need to check the AC voltage going into the reg/rec and the DC voltage coming out of it. If the AC voltage going in is low the stator or the wiring between the stator and the reg/rec is the problem. If the AC voltage going into the reg/rec is good but the DC voltage coming out of is low it's a fault in the reg/rec or the wiring between the rec/rec to the battery. There is a procedure you can follow. The numbers and wire colours will be different but the procedure is the same https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/how-to-charging-system-fault-finding.294687/

Here's a quick comparison between a cheap online jacket and a decent jacket

Did the front sprocket fall off?

Are you trying to add a 4 way switch or are you just trying to install indicators? The only way I can see that they would all blink is you joined the right and left together some how. Did you take the indicator switch apart?

I agree with JRH. I'd put everything back to standard settings and see how that feels

Have you tried cleaning the one you've got? If you don't want to do it yourself you could just take it off and get it ultrasonically cleaned

Is the cylinder head earthed to the frame ? Try scraping the paint off the bracket that bolts to the cylinder head both at the engine and the frame . It is quite possible that the plug is isolated from earth by the cylinder base gasket and the head gasket . I realize that there are bolts in there but it's worth a shot . Alternatively just touch the plug to a bare part of the frame to see what happens. I seem to recall having to do this on one or two of my CG's Same with the coil , make sure no paint is acting as an insulator . Good idea. A quick way to check if you've got jumper cables you could attach one end to the battery negative and the other end to the head.

Can't beat your hands on experience of fixing them. I'm just looking at the diagram and giving an guess what the problem could be. The Cg is an interesting bike. It was made for so long that it shows the development of bike electrics over the years from 6V magneto to 12V points and condenser, then the the different CDI systems. If they made another Cg it would probably be a fuel injected TCI so it would have all the ignition systems.

Keep an eye on it. I had the same problem with a rear brake switch staying on. If people behind you can't tell when you're braking it could cause them to run into the back of you very easily. I'm in the habit of checking that the brake light is working every time I get on the bike now as it's warming up

Does your manual give a fuel level spec? The fuel level is usually given as a certain height above or below the mating surface of the carb bowl and the body of the carb. You check if it's in spec by attaching a piece of clear hose to the drain on the carb bowl, then open the drain screw. If the fuel level is in spec it means the float height is correct.

Are the indicators working properly? You could disconnected the front and rear brake switches and see if it goes out.

A friend of mine had an electric bicycle and I used it a few times. It was bloody brilliant! You could fly past people without breaking a sweat Hate to say it but if you are doing a short commute an electric bicycle would probably make more sense than a motorbike

I don't know anything about the CG but looking at that wiring diagram it's getting power for sparking from the battery not the stator so make sure you have a fully charged battery. If the battery is fully charged I'd test at the Ignition control module using a test light. A test light is a better test than a multimeter because with a test light you're forcing more current to flow through the wiring than with a multimeter. At the Ignition control module you've got Red/Black is switched 12V from the ignition, with the test light clamped to ground you should see a bright light when the ignition switch is on and you touch the test light to Red/Black and no light when the ignition is off. Green is constant ground, with the test light clamped to battery positive, you should see a bright test light when you touch it to the green wire. Blue/Yellow is the signal from the pulse generator, to test the voltage output of that properly you need a peak voltage detector, but if you put your mutimeter to AC voltage and you touch one probe to Blue/Yellow and the other to ground you should see some sort of reading when you crank the engine. If you don't see any reading the pulse generator or the wiring going to it is the problem. Another thing to check is the gap between the pulse generator and the rotor. If the gap is too big the voltage signal will be low. From what you've described in your first post it sounds like you might not be getting a proper signal from the pulse generator.

Is page 101 the correct wiring diagram? http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros/honda%20cg%20125%20titan%20ks-es-kse-cargo-manual%20de%20ensamble-103%20pag%20(esp).pdf

Are you talking about this newer bike? https://bikeswiki.com/Yamaha_XV950_(Bolt) On the older bikes XV is a Virago and XVS is a Dragstar. They're two different models. I think the Dragstar was a bit fancier than the Virago

Is that the bike? That's not a moped https://bikez.com/models/rieju_rr_50.php

You could put the original CDI back in and see if the indicators work. Don't think it'll make any difference but it's easy to check

Here's a manual for a 2008 Ybr125. Your 2009 model could be different but I can't find a manual for a 2009. The wiring diagram is on the last page. http://www.clubybr.com/archivos/MANUAL_DE_SERVICIO_YBR_125_CUSTOM.pdf The brown wire is 12V going to the dashboard when the key is on. That brown wire gives 12V to fuel gauge, tachometer, engine warning light, neutral light. If all those components are faulty the problem could be a on that brown wire or the on the 12V side of the dashboard. The black wire is the ground for the fuel gauge, tachometer, instrument light and high beam indicator. If they're all not working it could be a fault on the black wire or the ground side of the dashboard. Wiring faults are often from bad connections in connector blocks so check the connector block going to the dashboard first. The wiring diagram shows the connector layout, it's on the left of item 25. It's a 6 pin connector. Check for signs of burning or corrosion in that connector especially on the brown and black pins. If the connector looks good you can check for 12V on the brown wire and ground on the black wire using a multimeter or test light. To check with a multimeter, turn the key on put the red probe of the meter on the brown wire, put the black probe on battery negative. You should see 12V with the key on and OL with the key off. To test the black wire, put the red probe on battery positive and the black probe on the black wire, you should see 12V all the time. If all that is good you know the wiring in the loom of the bike is good and the fault is in the dashboard or the wire harness going to the dashboard. You're saying the wires connect to the dashboard with rusty screws? Are those wires brown and black? You can test for 12V and ground on the dashboard at those screws in the same way as you did at the connector. If the screws are rusty, water must be getting in somewhere so check for water damage on the circuit board. All connections have to be clean. Rust could be causing bad connections and high resistance or an open. If you take the dash apart stick up some pictures. It would be interesting to see what it looks like.

Did you try women's gloves? They might fit your fingers better

Some BMW bikes were prone to final drive failures weren't they? You should check if the bike you're interested in is one of them

There's a good virago forum full of information called viragotechforum. You could ask there

I don't know much about suspension but I think if the air gap is too big the forks will compress too much because air can compress easily whereas oil can't.

air gap was 132mm as per manual with 459mm of oil. I was braking hard from over 70 to get that to compress. Im 17st 4lbs. There is half a turn of preload left. I really do need better springs Not sure if this is your bike but this Suzuki manual says on page 5-19 that a GSF650 needs 502ml and 108mm air gap. And a GSF650s needs 507ml and 104mm air gap. https://enduro.team/ea/images/7/77/Gsf650s_2005.pdf