eastanglianbiker

to balance the carbs you need a set of vaccum gauges to do it correctly ideally its a shop job

how long has it been stood if you go to the solinoid you can short across the 2 big terminals and see if engine turns over then or like others have said try bump start

hi has the bike not been used for a while it sounds like itt could be a flat battery or the starter solinoid have you tried giving it a jump start and then check current going into battery

if you have the v5 already you wont need to geta vic check done if you dont have the v5 then it will ost you the fee to get one i think this is still £25 and if you need a vic check that was £35 last time i had one done

and a fuel tank big enough to get u there and back without stopping......................

as far as im aware if the switch is there the indicators have to be there and anything registered after 1992 has to have them as well

you need indicators for the mot do you still have the v5 for the bike or do the insurance compay have it being a cat c write off you might have to book bike in for a vic check before you can get the v5 back this will also be marked up at bottom of front page as previously seriously damaged and repaired

not expensive to buy http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/p ... RINDER.htm

not expensive to buy http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/p ... RINDER.htm

10 w 40 want in it

could well be your main bearings on the way out then you can replace them as they sit in either side of crankcase they need dressing out and new ones in BUT from the inside means engine strip

me and my purple thing wont be there

they are not cheap try a compny called nrp think they in mancester or somewhere near google them they will be lot cheaper than buying from suzuki

slides not opening as smoothly as they should making the running rough and spluttery

remove the slides from arb bodies and give them a clean up in all that time chances are dirt has got in them and making them stick could also be the diaphrams gone hard or saggy would have same effect as well

as far as im aware you need to remove the cams and the buckets that hold the shims should lift out off the top of the valves

The crank shaft seal is in the stator which comes away from the engine. There is also an o ring which i have replaced too but its still leaking.

I read some where that the bearing seal maybe leaking allowing too much pressure through.

there is normally a seal behind the stator that is in the crankcase itself and is normally fitted from inside the casing so that it seals correctly there could also be to much movement in the crank allowing it to move round in the csing and thats the reason for it not sealing

the spring in the seal would normally be on the inside and often they are fitted from inside the crankcase so you would need to split engine right down to replace them

best bets would be evilbay or partfinder costs you one call and then all the breakers ring you with their price

as you adjut the chain check for tight spots in it and make sure the tight spot is the bit you check the adjustment on otherwise if you check it at a loose spot the tight spot on tthe chain will get over stressed and could break

yep will be the friction plates is worth changing springs as matter of course as you have to remove them to change the clutch plates

i assume its a disc brake just check thickness of pads if they are ok you can take them out aand put small amout of copper slip on the rear of the pads not the disc side ths should cure the squeak

will fit straight on nat no differences at all

hi normally the black wire is an earth on bikes does everything work ok including llights indicators horn brake light if they al work properly it not to serious cant be much more help than that

still going sunday just got to get out on time..................