eastanglianbiker

you have got the bike show coming up at the NEC will be more bargins there i would of thought

if you leave the thermostat out the engine will never reach correct running temp and could also make it boil up more as the water will flow through the system to quickly and not cool properly as it passes through the rad

if you have covered very few miles on it since they serviced it pop back in it might just need the tickover turning up.once warm if you keep pulling choke on all that will do is make it stall anyway

did you have it running for as long as you normally did when it was blowing the hot water out

could well be the coil breaking down as it is number 1 and number 4 not running right be worth putting some new plugs in first just to make sure if its been a while since you changed them

its very rare for the water pump itself to fail as it is just a shaft with a blade on it what tends to fail is the mechanical seal that seals the water pump from the oil removing the tank is not a big job remove seat there will be one or 2 bolts holding tank down remove them and lift tank gently from the rear you will need to remove the fuel pipes so make sure fuel tap is in the OFF position unless its a vacuum tap remove the fuel pipes you might need to grip gently witih pliers and turn the pipe to break the seal.once you have removed pipe(s) lift tank and pull towards rear of the bike then lift it off.if bike has fuel gauge you will also need to unplug connector on that

either a new genuine switch or run a temp one off a switch mounted to handlebars that you can turn on and off as needed all you need to do is connect one side to existing wire and put link to earth in from other side of switch sorted

is the bmw tyre not squarer at the edge of tread like the harley and goldwing tyre?

if you are going in to buy the tyre have a look at them both and on the sidewalls there is a date code all tyres have this in which case go for the latest date code In the example above:

DOT U2LL LMLR 5107

DOT U2LL LMLR 5107 Manufactured during the 51st week of the year

DOT U2LL LMLR 5107 Manufactured during 2007

Idealy you want tyres with last 2 numbers being 09 or 10

could also relate to older compound tyre

the sensor will either be in the rad with 2 wires coming out of it or could even be on the thermostat housing along with temp gauge

one way to test if it is just the switch is to bypass the switch itself if you can remove the wires from the switch or follow them up to where they join up to loom then seperate connectors and sonnect them together so they dont go down to brake switch if brake light comes on then the switch is the problem

it would depend on which side of the rear brake light switch you joined into. if you can see rear switch try with ign on to move pin and see what happens as sometimes the spring gives up and doesnt pull switch far enough to operate light

yes it will use a thermostat but does the rad have a fan on it as some of the cmaller cc bikes tend to rely on airflow through rad to keep them cool and if it is fitted with a fan is it cutting in when bike is getting hot???

it could be a cam chain guide stuck or broken up then allowing chain to whip about a bit might need to get to top of engine and remove cam cover to check out whats going on in there

you can use a length of wood against different places round the engine and place your ear to it you will hear any nasty noises transmited down wood place it around cam cover barrels cam chain area if you can reach it the alternator clutch.it might help you work out what area it is ticking in

if anything it would be the main switch itself if it works after 2 presses dont panic to much the tester might think he didnt press it hard enough first time

nope i didnt make it ive 'mislaid' my keys

anyone heading down to marina tonight?

oh for F**k sake! Missed another outing...

sort your life out and read the forums more often and get computer at home OR go to work on a friday night to see whats happening.............

might be there depending on weather later

glad you finally got it sorted again

no worries mattrick the only way water would of got in around magneto tho is if you have no casing on it or the gasket is letting water in something else to check is that the breather in the fuel cap isnt blocked unless it has tube fitted to it if no tube try running it with cap loose or off

have you run it low on petrol as if you have it might of pulled some debris up from bottom of tank another thing to try is see if it runs any better with choke slightly on if it does then the main jet in the carb needs cleaning out

clean the plugs up first then you need to remove the airbox off the carbs it looks like you will need to remove the 4 black plugs in the rear of the airbox to get to securing screws then if yu look at where the carbs fit to the engine you will see a metal clip on each black connector loosen them off and the carbs will pull out