eastanglianbiker

is it not the starter solinoid?

springs on the rear shocks squeaking?

another way to help move the pistons back in is to loosen the bleed nipple make sure you fit a tube of some kind on it as it will squirt fluid out as you push pistons back into the caliper fit new pads remove master cylinder top and check fluid level as you gently pull brake lever to push pistons out onto the pads

you could move the forks up into the yokes slightly at the front and you might be able to get lowering kit for rear shock

i would of said looking at it that there is meant to be a nut either end of the bracket to stop the cable pulling up through the bracket as the lever is pulled.there for locking the cable into place and doing main adjustment at the bottom with fine adjust at the top by the lever.when you look at how much thread is showing i bet there is no free movement of clutch arm

it can snow as much as it likes atfer saturday lunchtime as i got to be at theifrow (opps sorry heathrow) at 9am so will be back by time snow starts

not sure how but you should be able to put the alarm in service mode on checking website

if you fond something in the tyre dont pull it out untill you have got to tyre shop unless you have another method of transport.if it is going down slowly then whatever is in it is acting as a plug

if you can put a new set of plugs in it yourself to save on labour costs if that doesnt help then get garage to have a look

first off welcome to the forum pop into newbies and introduce yourself.

and it sounds like you need to get the charging tested on your bike at tickoveryou should have just over 12volts showing on a voltmeter and at about 3000 to 4000 rpm you should have about 14/15 volts showing if it doesnt go up with increasing revs then it could be your alternator,if it is going up way past the 15 volts it could be your rectifier/regulator

without the baffle in the can it means that the gasses are more free flowing which can make it run lean and might need fuel mixture made slightly richer(more fuel)

have you checked condition of air filter and if fitted the fuel filter.also after riding for a while and it stats messing about pull over if you can and open fuel cap,ifyou get a hiss like its drawing air in the the breather hole could be blocked in the cap therefor restricting fuel flow

if you strip it down you will be well advised to fit complete new piston kit,..piston piston ring s small end bearing gegeoun.(spelt wrong i know) pin and circlips new cylinder base gasket,head gasket and any others that you have to take off.get full top end gasket set

it might of been damaged in the past and had new thread cut in it.cant help with bolt tho sorry

if no coolant drained out either you had none in it or the drain hole is blocked after you remove the bolt get something that is small enough to go into the hole and seeif that helps it to start draining i assume drain bolt in on the water pump?failing that remove the hose off the water pump and drain it that waythen remove pumpand clean it up new gasket and refit

if you have no power at your garage have you looked at something like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12v-Solar-Panel-P ... 53e4b2ed69

get an optimate you can leave that connected to battery all the time you are not using the bike and it will only charge onve voltage drops slightly

when you removed the drain plug did the system drain then? poke something small gently into drain hole as it might of moved slit there and thats blocked it.i take it you are filling it through the rad cap and not the expansion tank?

there is a disc inside the tap that normally has rubber seal on it the disc has holes in to release fuel from the tank.it could either have perished rubber seals on it or is just badly worn and is alowing fuel through you can buy rebuilt kits for the tap means draining the fuel from the tank and taking tap apart and rebuilding it,or the tube on the tap inside the tank has come out of the tap there for both on and reserve are working as reserve either way you will have to remove tap from tank to find out

when i have done them in the past i done it with fork leg fully pushed down into lower leg(compressed), filled to top edge then expanded fork leg to full extent inserted spring and put fork top back on never caused any problems

could be wear in the switch itself or water laying in there or could be the relay playing up

replied to your post in other section about fairing repairs adey google dream machine

could be something as simple as needing a good service and the carbs balancing.also is it an aftermarket end can if so it might mean the carbs need upjetting

if you are going to spray it using a compressor and spray gun look up local paint suppliers in your area and see if they have any paint on the shelf that been mixed but was wrong colour for the person buying it as they will do a deal on price . you will get whole bike painted with 2 litres of paint and have some spare.dont forget you will need thinners as well

what bike is it what filters are on it how bad is exhaust blowing