Jump to content

eastanglianbiker

Registered users
  • Posts

    3,528
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by eastanglianbiker

  1. it would need the cam cover removing to confirm and internal cam/rocker failure and to go any deeper would mean removing the cylinder head and barrel to check play in big end properly
  2. bars will have been stressed at the bend point so as tango says replace with a set of bars like flat renthals wont change riding position to much then
  3. the clutch case HAS got a gasket on it the rear casing the other side that covers the front sprocket wouldnt normally have one due to the rear of the case being open for the chain to go in and ot of it
  4. it does sound like a return spring of some sort has given up if you have got a manual for the bike i would have a look at the gear selector arm that goes from the pedal into the engine to see if you can find the location of the spring as sometimes they are in the clutch case and others are within the main crank case,also have you taken the gear lever off and removed the casing to check how much dirt and old crud is built up in there as that cold also stop it returning on its own
  5. if its nothing to do with the carb then there is a good chance its the ign plate on the engine and /pr the cdi being incorrect giving a signal to fire at incorrect time hence plug showing up as black and its refusing to rev correctly but first get the carb set right with mixture and tickover and see what happens
  6. sounds like the time for major engine work or replacement engine,i dont know the bike is it 4 stroke or 2 stroke like tango says it sounds like big end to me as well and its not going as revs increase its just balancing out a bit but in the end it will go bang and appear through the casing
  7. set the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from being fully wound in then as the bike is running slowly move it out or in a fraction untill the runing smooths out
  8. i would take it back to the shop who done the work on it explain to them whats happening and give them chance to correct it
  9. anyone any good with a socket set a spanner set and a haynes manual are capable of doing the job
  10. he just battles on doing bit and pieces to earn a bit of money pays people when he can and isnt worrid about the bike as its only going up in value but only if completed as a project its worth about half its real value
  11. start it up and use a piece of wood against the cylinder head and your ear against the other end of the wood see how noisy it is then do the same on the barrel and then on crankcase that will help you work out of tapping is top middle or bottom end
  12. a mate of mine runs into money troubles fairly often it has meant his quick rebuild on a tzr250 that started 10 years ago is still a project in his bedroom but he doesnt panic about finishing it as its only going up in vlaue and will be worth lots more when finished than it is now same as your tzr125 will only go up in vlaue the nicer and more complete it is
  13. thought you was doing it to the tzr hence saying about being 2 stroke but even going onto your yzf you will need to sort out soute for the pipe to take and possibly move/modify wiring loom to get it safe out of the way and make sure it has decent heat shields on it to stop it melting the under side of the seat and all the rear under guard,lots to consider and in my mind cost would by far outweigh any gain in power/speed/resale value
  14. being a 2 stroke ricky back pressure is very important to the engine staying in working condition and trying to build under seat exhaust would be hard work including getting the expansion part right and then getting it to flow correctly i personally would say it would need a specialist in that line of work to build it and convert it to fit ur bike and to set it up running correctly as well
  15. if you are gripping with your knees then you are riding the bike if your knees are out in the wind then you are just steering the bike you can test this by gently pressing one knee futher into tank and bike will naturally start to turn so press right knee bike will head to left and vise versa
  16. then lube it up and set it to corect tension and see what happens
  17. top yoke you would get away with gloss black paint on as long as you rub it down nicely first and clutch case would need to be heat proof paint due to temps it gets to
  18. final drive chain tension? last time you changed the oil?bent selector possible
  19. if you want to do it yourself you are more than welcome to ride to mine and i will oversee you doing it and guide you along the way i have the tools here to use to do it the offers there up to you what you do about it im in chatteris near ely
  20. when you have been cleaning your chain have you not spotted a split link in it at all if not you can use agle grinder to remove a link plate that will then allow you to remove chain
  21. change it yourself save the labour charges
  22. i have no idea of how much to put in but if you look near the filler/dipstick hole there is sometimes an amount stamped into casing
  23. oil in gearbox wont make louder or quieter any 10/40 oil will do might bge better off with correct bike oil in case of clutch slip due to age
  24. i think ricky should go to the rally to celebrate both his 18th birthday and losing his rally virginity
  25. shame the op has never returned to the forum after that first day to at least update the thread so it might helps others in the future
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Please Sign In or Sign Up