caretaker

Tell me where you would check the oil level -Identify dipstick or sightglass Show me how you would check the horn use the horn-turn ignition on if needed show me where the brake fluid reservoir is and tell me how you would check it has a safe level of fluid identify reservoir and level indicator Tell me how you would check the lights and reflectors are working operate switch and check operation and reflectors andlights are clean Show me how you would check the brake lights are working operate both brake and place hand over rear light or make use of relections in windows etc Tell me how you would check the condition of the chain on this machine check for wear, tension,alignment, lubrication Show me the checks you would make on the steering movement before using this machine hanbdlebars should have free movement without control cables being pinched, trapped or snagged How would you check the tyres ensure correct tyre presure, and tread depth is at least 1mm across 75% of the tyre No damage to tyre walls etc etd I think that is about it...of course others may know of more detail Good luck

Pillion questions; 1. What are the considerations when preparing to stop with a pillion? A- Brake earlier, brake proggressively, favour the rear brake, consider putting 2 feet down 2. How can a pillion affect the bike in a corner? A-Pillion movement could make a second steering input that you have to correct causing wobble (light front end) 3.What are the considerations when loadinga bike with luggage? A Evenly distributed, heavy items at the bottom, securely fastened no dangling straps, not touching hot exhaust, not obscuring lights or indicators, adjust mirrors 4 what adjustments would you make before carrying a pillion? A- Lights, mirrors, tyres, suspension 5 How would you advise a pillion before going on a bike for the first time? A-Securely fastened helmet, ask permission for getting on and off, show grab rest and foot pegs, relax- Acceleration lean forward and push grab rail, braking push on foot pegs 6 how could you make yourself more visible on the road Reflective clothing-at night. Flourescent in day-bright clothing, lights on and riding position

Sorry to hear about your 1st attempt but it doesnt sound as though you have anything to worry about...re indicators - (its always possible to press cancel them an extra time just to make sure they're off.) Good Luck with the retest.

Have you tried 1. seeing if the plug has a good strong regular spark whilst it is out of the engine (and earthed by holding against engine casing- using insulated pliers/screwdriver) as you turn engine over? 2 Have you Set the plug gap 3 checked the plug after you tried to start it -Is it (the plug) wet with fuel after you have tried to start it ? or is dry 4Tried with choke no throttle? or Tried with throttle no choke?

You wont get 14V until the engine is running Oh yes you will!!! Now I'm puzzled- Where does it get the other 1.2V from? and if you put meter on - does the voltage increase even more than 14V once the bike is running?

Yes, light rain after a long dry spell can particularly make the roads greasy- re worn tyres I don't really know but I was told that tyres have a small raised piece of rubber withing the tread recess which relates to 1 mm in depth and this is also pointed to on the outside of the tyre with a marker v arrow about every 150-200mm around the tyre wall. The tyre is worn down fully when the tread thats left has worn level with the raised piece within the tread recess. I was shown them and they are quite hard to see...on the one I looked at.....so needs close inspection. 1mm is also the limit but obviously in greasy conditions 2mm is better Anyone else heard of this?

Yes I agree too... I thought a 500cc would be to big for me to learn on but now i feel they are just so much more suitable...... no need to worry about getting up to speed anymore ..... or being buffeted about as lorries overtake. Good Luck with your training

You think that's the entire point? perhaps they think it will stop incompetent drivers from getting on the road Sometimes more is less- Some Incompetent drivers are allready on the road....sometimes on bicycles, or in cars with L plates or on twist and go scooters even new cbt holders/125cc learners but at least they have the facilty to practice additional safety requirements without having to pay for every hour they do. Limiting 'on road' practice for the full 500cc licence to only those who can pay and without other options is a financially restrictive system that affects a catergory of motorcycling that I feel, out of all the learner catergories should be of the greatest safety priority importance due to the nature of the larger faster machine. Having no alternative but to pay to jump through endless hoops some of which have no comparison to actual real road conditions could in the future make motorcycling become something afforded by the rich and done only occasionally. ......... and no longer a cost effective alternative method of transport. By its very nature of only having two wheels in certain condition it will contain a greater element of risk...... Every cyclist knows the danger of going to fast, a car door opening, braking on icy road conditions, being cut up by a car too- should cyclists take a test and pay next? If tougher regulations mean better safety for all then it is admirable but we need to be carefull we are not being sold a pup and ensure that the better safety angle, is not just being used to raise more test revenue ..... Sometimes it seems in reality there is little evidence on our roads of people continuing to use many of the safe driving methods after they have passed their test.When did you last see a car driver cornering with his hands at 10 to 2 and/or maintaining only 70mph on the outside lane of the motorways....as he kept his thinking and braking distance! Its possible these and many other things could in reality be considered to be a dangerous practice if .....continously only done by a few (rant over)

I think it's purpose is, according to the DSA, to help you consider/practice looking at and using directional road signs as well as highway signage..yes, as you would in real life situations, and so that you dont get lost once you take your L plates off and don't have anyone telling you where to go! Personaly I think if it means 10 minutes less of not knowing where you are going next "further than the next corner" that is..then it could be an improvement. ie "Take the A617 to Chesterfield" or whatever would probably be a more realistic decision making excercise rather than continously just seeking out the next left/right or whatever, as its asked of you. That said it seems the test, after October will now consist of both methods anyway. Has anyone learning been told about this by their trainschool...or practised it?

Well its on the DSA website so it can't be all wrong surely http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQRl3zkkOgg

Has anyone heard of the changes due in October to the Mod 2 driving test due ? I have heard that there is going to be an independent driving section.. ie your not directed street by street where to go, I think? I copied this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQRl3zkkOgg [from the DSA web site; Don't really know anything about it or what it involves so i still need to read more Independent driving explained i]Independent driving in the driving test Independent driving will become part of the practical driving test in Great Britain in October 2010[/i] Independent driving - 4 October 2010 your practical driving test will include a 10 minute section of independent driving. During your test you’ll have to drive independently by either following: •a series of directions •traffic signs •a combination of both To help you understand where you’re going, the examiner may show you a diagram. It doesn't matter if you don't remember every direction, or if you go the wrong way - that can happen to the most experienced drivers. Independent driving is not a test of your orientation and navigation skills. Driving independently means making your own decisions - this includes deciding when it’s safe and appropriate to ask for confirmation about where you’re going.

Maybe... be interesting to see if others more experienced than me agree. I do know it is fun if you are going through a series of twisties to use countersteering for tightening your turn a little more than required. Making that slightly tighter turn will cause more reduction in speed so then apply the throttle gradually to maintain the speed that would be lost, so that you come out of the corner with the bike straightening up and again ready for the next turn..... It just makes the whole cornering ' feel ' so much more controlled and positive. No need to try to straighten out 'all the bends' with road position alone anymore..........you can keep dead to the middle of the lane but at speed.. (should you want to) practicing balancing 'the countersteering into the corner' and syncronising and applying the right amount of gradually increased throttle out of the corner will tell you whats right by how it feels. The feedback from the bike is so positive (If you did push too hard and the bike lean too much, turn too tight....it would then just be a case of countering it as you lean with more throttle) To me, as I am a learner, countersteering was an absolute revelation when i tried it and felt it in action. It took me a little while to actually trust what I had been told, enough to actually do it as it appeared to go against my idea of steering. " Best way i can describe the 'positive feel' it gives to cornering is similar to how it feels when you do a slow tight turn around a corner which is then going steeply up hill and then you have to quickly open the throttle and accelerate to compensate for the hill. Once you apply that throttle it always feels more stable and positive." I would say thats how correct countersteering feels but at speed and without the hill. If you did happen to be sure you are on an empty straight road or area and really sure its empty go at 40mph along the middle maintain the speed, relax both arms keep complete body straight up and not leaning any way and then press with just a finger on the left handle bar and then you will see the bike turn left so then press the same with the right finger on the right handle bar back to where you where- get used to it then do it with for for longer and longer! until you are doing a continous 'S' ie warming your tyres....then do the same and just apply a little gradual syncro throttle between each push to maintain original speed ...Its an absolute Joy! Obviously me being a learner I know I may be overstating the obvious to many so I apologise for that but I have explained it for the benefit of those who like me had never concsciously tried it. I do remember whilst i was learning to ride agonising for a time, as to if i can trust the theory or not as it takes a little belief to intentionally try it for the first time and especially more so later if you are facing oncoming traffic a little wide and need to do it..You need to be confident in your mind long before then that it works! Enjoy and let me know how you get on PS- Just remembered another usefull application of counter steering If you are going along straight in a cross wind use it to counter a continous side wind or the gusts ie strong wind from the left push a little more on the left to counter lean the bike into the wind whilst still going straight

The avoidance manouvre in the MOD 1 requires the use of counter steering. I think for beginners to understand counter steering is vital so that they do not resort to their natural push bike riding instincts when an emergency swerve is required. For instance it is possible that many beginners if they had time to think about it and wanted to swerve sharp left would just pull on the left handlebar and put the weight on the wrong side of the front tyre for turning! When obviously they should be looking to push on the left and have the bike put its weight on the left side and smaller diameter part of the tyre. (I think it can/should be practiced on every corner and is anyway either knowingly or not) Its great fun and gradually increasing the throttle in syncro with the push/turn to maintain the required angle of lean gives so much more positive feel to the cornering. ....The real point is what would you do in an emergency if you had to do it purely by instinct?....and would it be correct? Once you are aware of countersteering- probably yes but if not- your "knees tank ass or whatever" as you put it wouldnt be as effective and an instictive panic left pull on the handle bar to swerve left rather than the required left push would be the wrong thing to do and send you the opposite way to which you wanted to go) I was told only to use coutersteering at 15mph and above and thats true also. I did once mistakenly try to use it during a slow tight u turn practice to try and tighten the turn and its bad news - the bike wanted to drop like a stone.....so now wouldnt use it at under 15mph whatsoever. How much to push? ie the pressure required does depend on your speed and more presure is required at a greater speeds ..in truth you are only moving the handlebars a 1/2 inch though and can be done at 50mph with a single finger

i prefer nike airmax personally. Expensive but a very comfortable trainer I prefer dunlop...........nothing comes close!

Hiya alan, yes, I'm still trying see http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... 47&t=33017 I had an independent assessment and that went okay just waiting to have another test now....not got it booked yet..probably take a cancellation when one comes up

Slalom and figure of eight are okay...............they are looking for control, don't try to do them over tight or over fast just steady and look mainly where you want to go rather than directly at each cone. In the figure of eight you are allowed to go out wide to turn so again dont need to be trying to get too tight a figure of eight. remember your observations before starting any manourve whatsoever and as already mentioned, breathe, take time to settle yourself down Good Luck

I think if you don't have a uk address it will be a problem for you to get a provisional licence. So it will also be a problem for you to do any 'on the road training' and I suspect you would only be able to have off the road training. Might be best if you invite an instructor out for a free paid for holiday .......and rent a couple of bikes Question then is; Would he be able to legally ride in your country?

I thought the cbt was a training course not a test........ and being given training until the reqiured standard is reached. What companies charge is up to them and in reality varies according to each rider and particular school I imagine. A non issue of certificate means they just want you to have more training and pay more money. I know everyone has to go out for a 2hr ride but that is also part of the training surely. The theory (ie higway road signs) can be taken after the cbt anyway and before the mod 1

I would think you need to talk to bike tuning shop..as the would also know what size pistons etc are available and possibly suitable..I imagine there will always be a trade off with future performance v long life Sounds a fun project.......

As I understand it you have to use the same class of bike ie 125cc or 500cc (whichever you chose to do the mod 1 on) for both of the modules....I wouldnt think it means the same actual bike

I agree it does sound like the trainer didnt want to bother to train him or didnt have the time. How many others where on the course? - Im sure it can make a difference to the time they have available for each. Does anyone know the number of riders an instructor can train off road ready for the 2hr cbt ride at any one time?

Hi Deso, its good to get your input..........and yes, the message is now loud and clear...........(I need to allow more distance the faster I am going.) The point you made about leaving enough room to get around a vehicle in the event it broke down is also a usefull way to remember the distance behind to stop.... and now I will be allowing for the appropriate thinking distance relevant to the speed I'm doing too Sometimes I think I have just been trying to hard Well, I have decided I will be giving it another go soon.........and as you say hoping this time I finally nail it !

I am keeping my eye out for a cheap learner legal.......but as I would be taking it on the A1 most days to go to work I'm not too keen on the lack of power, slim back wheels, small frame size and low riding height that seems to be the norm in many of the bikes availbale. I am sure there must be some that are more than suitable than others but I don't really know which. I did go to look at a YAMAHA SR125 because in the picture it looked to have a wider back tyre........when I saw it it was a lovely little bike in proportion, but felt far too small and a very low riding position. Maybe this is the norm and something i just have to put up with...if i want the practice...I'm not sure?

Oh yes, I was too close for sure but I'd just slipped into car driver mode and gone with the flow of traffic. Truth is a lot of cars and bikes appear to regularly drive in a way that wouldnt allow them to pass the 'test' and its the difference between the reality on the road and the test standards. It looks like I just have to concentrate more on riding for the test requirements. It is a bit alien to me slowing down and holding up traffic behind (especially leaving a roundabout as on my first test fail) Traffic always bunches on the approach and leaving dual carriageway roundabouts. I know in reality it will just make drivers crowd behind me frustrated looking for the oportunity to overtake .. I naturally favour dropping back gradually to create space if I am not intending to overtake myself after the exit.If i do intend to overtake I maintain my position which invariably will be too close. I understand the 2 sec rule which is straight forward on a straight long straight road but harder to maintain on approaching and leaving roundabouts. Pulling onto a roundabout behind the busy traffic and then leaving inthe flow invariably breaks this rule............or would appear to be hesitation. But yes, I agree I wiil be trying out further following distances in my car as well........though I know it will only leave space for the boy racer to fill. ....I am now already one of the few car drivers that constantly shoulder checks! There is definetly a different rythmn to riding a bike than driving a car probably due to the different use of gears - have allready learnt its not a good idea to block change directly down from 4th to 2nd on a bike! The skipping back end told me that! If I drove a car the same as if I was riding a bike it would appear to me to be the equivalent of thrashing it (the car) If I ride a bike as a do a car, it would appear I think hesitant, slow and very conservative. Obviously they are both very different machines which require individual different driving methods/styles on the same one piece of tarmac Anyway Thanks for the input its all being digested.......and all part of the learning curve

yeah I would be tempted in this situation to ditch the car for a while and get about more on a 125 cos there is nothing that makes you more aware your on a bike than when your on a 125 Yes, you make a good point and like I read on another post..... Its then "The best of both worlds"