caretaker

You'll be fine its just getting some time on the bike... - its also usefull to 'dab' your back brake a little to slow when needed during the slow clutch controlled turns and keep your rev's 'busy' it all helps to steady the bike. You'll sort it next time for sure..

well done!

It is unlikely to be the relay seeing as the other side works fine, more likely a worn switch or bad connection. yes, I agree it sounds like a poor switch contact or worn switch

Pleased to hear that you've sorted it

It would appear to still seal if I remove the stat. Its just a gasket between two flanged faces of the stat housing. anyway I'm going to do a search to find cost of rad cap and the stat and try find a mechanic to advise me re possible head gasket problem and also why fan isnt operating before it boils off....no point in having the fan if it doesnt come on before the water has gone!

no i only intended to remove the stat and see if it still overheated or not ie maybe because the stat hadnt been previously opening early enough..... or if it did overheat prove the rad cap was still faulty if it overheated without stat in and plenty of water flow? I think I may be on the way to setting a new record for removing fuel tank and seat

So it looks like try new rad cap, if no good then then try new stat...if still no good try sniffer test for any contaminated water, followed by compression test......... to check gasket That seems to be the sequence to try so far - phew! Thanks for your input...its all appreciated and part of the learning curve

Yes thats true......the thing thats worrying me is that maybe there isnt a problem after all..what are the chances of being sat in a traffic jam for 15 mins anyway...or even if i was i could turn the engine off...so when subjected to normal riding and getting plenty of air through the radiator the problem may not arise...just don't know yet

Yes, it does help and I'll certainly bear that in mind.I'll be running it tomorow to check it again. so if it 'boils' again any possible causes will be handy to know. well tried it again.ran it for about 10/15 min....and it boiled again so I think i try leaving the thermostat out next time and follow that by fitting a new radiator cap ! I think i'm going to get to know my way around this bike engine...

Yes, it does help and I'll certainly bear that in mind.I'll be running it tomorow to check it again. so if it 'boils' again any possible causes will be handy to know.

No not really quite as long .....i will need another go at that tomorrow maybe...didnt want to annoy the neighbours Someone on another forum did say it could be a head gasket gone pressurizing the water system so its still inconclusive yet..so I will run it again longer next time

Well todays job ........remove fuel tank to get access to radiator Thermostat First time I have done it but it went okay and al went straight forward- so I managed to remove thermostat from its housing. Incidently its a good time to check or change spark plugs on cb500 I took it (Thermostat not bike) indoors and emersed it in hot water and it didnt open.....just to be sure i then put it in a pan and heated it up more and it did open..so now not sure if its good or not...but it did open on simmer.. ...and before on the bike I had hot water and steam coming from overflow) Anyway I have put it all back together..... I did notice that the thermostat can fit in its housing in 2 positions (180deg oposite ) and it does make a difference to its position in the housing....so possibly also effect water flow- anyone had experience of this.....? up to now it seems it could have been a possible air lock in water circuit..but not sure at all Anyway I have ran the bike and seems okay at the mo but I won't know really know until I take it for a good run (but not allowed yet) so this could be ongoing

Thank you again for that.... sounds like removing the tank is worth a try then and see what i can see

I've located and checked and changed the thermosatic fan switch but i still have the same problem of it overheating and spitting out the overheated water from the overflow. Apparently this switch doesnt actually control the temp and the fan only operates in extreme conditions really now i need to check , thermostat in its housing, Reservoir pressure cap itself? and maybe even water pump itself if al else fails I've also had a look at a pdf of the haynes manual and it says there is a thermostat in a thermostat housing and this is located under the tank...anyone done this job? Is it a big job removing the tank to check and remove this thermostat Same with the Reservoir pressure cap? It also says there is a water pump which is driven by the oil pump so that could get really complicated!

Yes, you'll have a bit of wobbling until you've had practice with your throttle and clutch control The DVD'S are perfect for practicing the theory with too Take your time and enjoy It helps so much if you drive a car though - atleast you understand the concept of clutch control! Yes but unlike a car.. at low speed you will be encouraged to, and need to, ' ride the clutch's biting point longer' when you need low speed control

Yes, you'll have a bit of wobbling until you've had practice with your throttle and clutch control The DVD'S are perfect for practicing the theory with too Take your time and enjoy

Hope it goes well..... You'll probably love it Went really well - I was worried about a 500 until I'd been on it for 20 mins!! I'm pleased to hear it went well..... Keep us informed how you get on with the DAS training and good luck now with the theory..... best you read up for it ..plenty of info etc online that can help etc

I would say so too...just be mindfull of the colour and dont get carried away

Had a think about your problem and as you say it occurs when you switch the indicators on. Ideally the voltage at the tail light should be checked with meter lights off indicators on What happens to tail light and headlight if they are off and indicators are on? do they (tail light etc)flash then? to me it could be 1. A faulty indicator switch itself putting a live feed to the headlight and tail light via regulator but would do this when they are off too! but 2 because its happening in time with the indicators I would tend to think its the regulator/flasher unit itself. - may have a pair of contacts arc'd and welded together It would be unlucky if the fault was in the loom and just happened to be in the wire from the flasher unit but possible i spose Not much help I know but most connections are straight forward single wired connections and volt regulator and flasher unit will be common to more wiring so also a reason to suspect regulator/flasher unit sounds like you need to get/borrow one at least to try out on it

Good Luck

Hope it goes well..... You'll probably love it

You'll sort it next time and you'll also know you've had a real practice on the course before without any other problems Incidently it is possible to lock the back wheel up and still pass as long as you notice it and release the brake quick whilst retaining control..worth knowing if you do feel anything lock again Guy before me did that but released the brake quick by instinct and still passed Good luck

As the instructor said " not much point in teaching on a 125 for the CBT and then teaching again on a 500 for the DAS". The instructor will just make sure that he can operate the controls/gears/balance etc off road to his satisfaction first before he venture on road.. I did my cbt on a 500 but its only because I had booked the das course

Better luck next time.... I know its disapointing - I was too when it I didnt pass.. Just run through in your mind the points you need to practice ie (staying off the front brake when leaned over on a U bend)

Sounds as though its just taking as long as it takes then