uk190

do you have to wear special kit? http://orangejuiceinbishopsgarden.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/071031_p33_specialpn11.jpg sorry mate, i couldnt resist it..

glad you got it sorted. you must be relieved to have found the cause? and it looks like i won the sweepstake too

i had to change the choke cable on my VL. so i know a little about them. if they are suggesting that the choke is being activated and causin gthe bike to run over rich and subsequently stall then it is feesable. and yes it could just be bad timing. but unless they repositioned the choke cable durin gthe work thay carried out i doubt that it would now start to happen all on its own. the easiest thing to test this would be to disconnect the choke cable and see if the fault goes. it would also help us to know what work they carried out on the bike for the MOT. it might help to point to alternative causes.

"you" sure picked a good team Rach. some might call it inspired or even genius..

that clown barbera didnt exactly do me any favours by taking pedrosa off on lap one grrr. its no wonder that he has been dropped for next season. thank god for grid position points.

i think you might end up having to try one of the many online parts suppliers. wemoto and the like. on a side note, its good to see that you finally ditched the bandit and opted for a more modern bike.

is the handbrake sticking? it does def sound like a fuel issue. i am leaning towards a choke problem. but first i would strip it and clean it. remove the carbs, strip them down and check for split diaphrams and anything obvious like sticky plungers. then clean everything inside with a can of carb cleaner. blow through it all with compressed air. spray more carb clean and reasseble and try it.

could it be a choke issue? or even a problem on the high speed jetting; the slow speed seems to be ok.

if it is the original spring then it may well be past its sell by date. didyou not get a new one as part of the clutch kit? i doubt the centre nut would move if it was torqued to 110nm. thats a lot of force. watch out for the RAC/AA etc, they will only respond to a fault once, if they get called out for the exact same fault which you havent fixed then they can bill you for it.

Get yourself to a show like the bmf this weekend. You'll find vendors selling pretty much every helmet from every manufacturer. All at good prices.

maybe this will help put it all back together... http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/suzuki-gsx1100-g-1991-1993-usa-clutch_bigsuusa96972_e221.gif

do the plates removed look like this http://www.jcmotors.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/JCM-SRK10.jpg the friction plates should look like this..http://www.partsnmore.com/images/parts/480/39-1248.jpg the clutch plates look like this...http://www.partsnmore.com/images/parts/480/39-1468.jpg

True lol. The rooms obviously come with free underwear too

Try shiny side towards you.

How about bill gates or the sultan of brunei ? £170 for two nights. In a b&b. In derbyshire.. ??? does it come with strippers ?

Good to see the old angle grinder still saving the day.

we're all on the edge of seats

Drain the oil. Remove the clutch and check for wear and damage. Measure the thickness of the friction plates. Check the clutch plates aren't worn or bent or burned. Check the basket for damage. If all is well then reassemble the clutch refit the cover and refill with oil. Simples. If you find the friction plates to be worn or damaged then replace them. If your half competent with tools and take the effort to pay attention to how it came apart then you won't need a haynes manual.

Sweepstake time... place your bets. I'll bet my 50p on it having worn friction plates. As the engine warms up the oil viscosity changes making more slippery this reduces its drag effect between the plates leaving only the friction surface to grip the clutch plates. Which fails because they're worn. Causing the clutch to slip when the engines hot. I can't see bent rods or plates or damaged baskets getting worse with a warm engine.

bob. the thread wasnt clear on what exactly was wrong. slipping or sticking. he also mentioned losing lever pressure. clutches are a simple concept made slighlty complex by the amount of components. if it slips... worn clutch or friction plates. worn pressure springs. wrong oil (anti friction additives). if it sticks... contaminated fluid. failure of master or slave cylinders. knackered hoses. sticking plates (especially if it has been stored and not ridden). damaged plate fingers. damaged basket. bent plates. am not convinced about the fluid heating and expanding. it would need to get very hot to expand fresh fluid enough to overcome the spring pressure. as the clutch lever is not being pulled and the piston in the master cyl moved then the fluid in resevior and hose are "connected" so it would more likely leak out through the filler cap seal. its the same fluid used in brakes remember and calipers get hot hot hot. if that were the case then brakes would be self operating when they get hot. they dont, they fade because the fluid boils and becomes compressable. hence the spongy feeling. i asked for clarification as the phrase "so the hydraulic clutch on my GSX1100g has gone altogether." is a bit vague.

comedy answer.... nitrous and a turbo from a nissan skyline gtsr-r-x-type r-gti sensible answer.... how many miles has it done? what state are the plugs, air filter and fuel filter in? derbi claim 15bhp and 70mph for these from new. it wouldnt take much for a little engine to loose a few bhp due to bad state of service consumables and then your top speed will drop off. if all is in good nick then look at increasing the air/fuel. a high flow air filter and free flowing exhaust will let the engine breathe easier and may increase the power a fraction. however; too much air and you'll weaken the air/fuel mixture and lose power. so you might need to re-jet the carb to provide more fuel and suit the extra air flow. you'll find a myriad of advice on tuning 4 strokes on the web. the principal is the same regardless of the capacity. also bear in mind what other said about weight and wind resistance. a bike with little power such as a 125 will be very suseptable to these. checkin gthe service consumables is dead easy but if any of the tuning info confuses you or seems to complex to attempt (based on your "maybe boring out the pipe going to the cylinder head or something" suggestion) i sugggest you get some help or maybe forget the whole tuning idea and wait until you get a bigger engined bike.

i am a tad confused as to what is actually wrong with the clutch. can i get you clarify a few things? 1. when cold, does the clutch slip or does it fail to disengage the drive (so you cant change gear) 2. does it slip when hot? 3. do you lose lever pressure after a few pulls of the lever? 4. what engine oil is in it? 5.what does "engine spins when i change gear" mean? 6. when you bled it through, did you just top up the old fluid with fresh or drain all the old fluid out first?

based on cals outburst at the weekend i wouldnt be suprised to see him out of moto gp and seeking a ride on a superbike. talk about biting the hand that feeds you..he needs a PR guru to vet his press interviews.

... with a pict i was going to respond with Several Species of Small Furry Animals Gathered Together in a Cave and Grooving = pink floyd simple man - skynyrd but seeing how the rules require 3 letters from the quote, i cant.. so how about Several Species of Small Furry Animal s Gathered Together in aCave and Grooving = pink floyd animal - def leppard

he is only there out of necessity and not through choice as such. i have worked out who i want in my team for the final round and needed to plan a route to that team through the next few transfer windows.. that meant changing riders i wiould have prefered to have kept. but thats the whole point of the game, if it was unlimited budget then we would all have the same team lol.