megawatt

That bike had an ex Pip Higham Pro Stock chassis with z650 rear shocks fitted with spacers and valve springs to stop the rear end squatting when launched. The engine was a stock 998 Katana engine with no alternator or starter motor with modded CV carbs. Bike had no lights or starter circuit, 2 pint fuel tank and an air shifter. Best time was 10.37 at 137mph!!!

Yep that's me for my sins. Here's some more and my "Streetbike"; http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Moregriprequired.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/GSX1325Prostockertyre.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Gottagetmoregrip.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/File0003.jpg Streetbike http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/File0002.jpg

Hmmmm, that's tempting. Haven't been back to the Pod since I stopped racing in 1988!

Brake discs shouldn't need cleaning as long as they are used. If the bike is stored for a while you can clean them with brake cleaner. Brake pistons do need cleaning. If you buy new pads , the pistons will need to be pushed into their cylinders. DO NOT do this unless you have cleaned them first or you could damage the seals. Remove old pads, pump pistons OUT a few mm, I use a drop of 3 in 1 or WD40, let it soak in and then rub with an old toothbrush until all crud is gone and then polish with non abrasive stainless polish to get a bright finish. wash with aerosol brake cleaner and push the pistons all the way in , watching the level in the reservoir as you do. Fit new pads, fit to bike and pump brake until pads are in contact with discs. Ensure pads back off when you release brake lever and if not you should strip the calipers, clean and rebuild with red rubber grease applied to the seals.

Once the head is off and the camchain suspended, put a rag in the tunnel to stop crap and bits galling in.

Can we have some pix please???

If you drop camchain, you just have to fish it back out. The important thing is to have crank at TDC mark and cams at timing marks aligned with either cylinder head top flange or similar. Test fan by putting 12volts across contacts .

Was it shorter than original?

When I was in the Bandit Owners Club , I had a 97 B12, a guy made some stainless pins for a few of us. they didn't seize in!!!

Is it worth buying another second hand caliper? f

BURN IT??? Sorry, i'll get my coat

Enjoy it mark, and take loads of piccies

Nice one Ian , was just thinking cush drive rubbers.

I wish.

Bloody ell, that,s only 20 miles from me. Shall I have a look if your serious?

You can tag along with me when you get there mate? I'll be there on Tuesday evening with a crate of beer,hic!

I am doing this trackday in September. It's on a Wednesday and Thursday with a hog roast and camping included. It's £140 all in for 2 days!!! You will have to join this club for £20,www.omcc.co.uk, download application forms and pay soon. The last time I checked there were still spaces available. Would be nice to see some of you guys again, even as spectators???

Thanks Ruthie, Yes either a jack up kit and /or yer shock is tired. Some Gixxer shocks will fit and a shorter one will jack the back end up. Dogbones come in 35 and 50mm jack up heights or buy adjustables for more money and set yer own height, Your shock may also be knackered, lost it's oil and/or gas. Check dimensions on your shock and buy a Gixxer shock with same bolt diam, width across fixings, spring diameter and a slightly shorter free length. Gixxer or Bandit Forum will say which is best.

Your bike hasn't,t been lowered Cat, we just adjusted the shock to give some rear SAG. It just so happens that with your weight it now moves the correct amount at the softest setting. How much SAG is there on the front end? For a heavier rider, this wouldn't,t work and the shock would bottom out. A different shock or dogbones would be needed.

Might be best to strip it first. You might not need all new studs etc. Post some pix?

Remember ,not too low on the front. Do it in 5mm steps. Better too high than low at front.

If you like giving money away, go to a garage! Buy a manual and watch some YouTube vids. Not a difficult job, just need to be methodical. Easier to remove stud with head off anyway. You will probs need a top end gasket set and some sealant. Setting the cam timing is straight forward, just align the timing marks and don,t let the chain fall down the tunnel. Go on, you know you want to. If really nervous pm ya number for a chat.

Support the front of the bike so that the weight is taken of the forks,preferably with a hydraulic or scissors jack. Undo the top and bottom fork clamps and clip on clamps if you have them. Slide the forks upwards, 5mm to start with, depending on how low the rear is. Tighten everything up and lower the jack. Check mudguard not too close after lowering.

Don,t think anything to do with fuel. Maybe a switch in the ignition circuit that is vibrating.? Wd all switches and test em?

It might and it might not. In my experience, it is better too high than too low. Try it and if necessary lower it in 5mm increments.