Tango

I've not inspected it too closely at the moment. Only noticed it the other night. It may solder or braze.....not sure what the rad core is made of. K Seal It?....never heard of it before. You say it's good Mega.....that's a good enough recommendation for me.. I'm always worried about using Rad Seal and the likes as I've heard it can block the water channels and cause a bigger problem....but this K Seal It sounds like it could at least get me through until a suitable rad comes up....or I get my rad re-cored. Many Thanks Guys... Bob

There is a guy advertising on eBay who repairs rads and oil coolers...but I'd prefer to go on recommendations from the guys here if anyone has experience of a good repairer. Not saying that this guy is not good.....may contact him anyway and get a quote. The leaks not bad enough to worry me yet.....just a bit of liquid slowly seeping out. So I'll keep an eye on the level. Hoping it'll get me through the summer.. Cheers guys, Bob

Noticed the other night some water seeping from my radiator on my Speed Four. A newey from Triumph £475....thank you very much sir!! Anyhoo....none on ebay. A couple of TT600 ones on there...but I think they are a bit different. So...here's the question: has anyone on here had a rad repaired? Their experiences.....and recommendations? Cheers, Bob

Does anyone here have one of these stands? Looks like it'll be easier to put the bike on than the traditional paddock stand? I'd like the blonde one (thought I'd get in first with the ABBA jokes!!)

Look after your bike....and it'll look after you!! I like to give the bike a thorough clean. Firstly it looks good after....but also when you are working that closely on it you notice things that you might otherwise miss. Things can work their way loose on bikes and you'll only notice when something drops off unless you keep a close eye on it.....and a good clean is the best way to do this IMHO

Just go round the chain and check that you've not got a tight spot on it. My Trophy chain used to be noisy when it was tensioned to spec....but backing it off a bit quietened things down a lot.

Hey twlou...please keep us posted. I hope that it is just a knackered valve.....but if the valve can move sideways it sounds like the valve guide has been damaged. Sounds like this problem has been brewing for a time when you say the guy who had it before you had to run it on higher octane fuel. Brace yourself though.....it may be a new top-end!! Got fingers crossed for you. Bob

I think me and BonnieBird are gonna try to get along if we can. Bikes are still dirty from the weekend....but what the heck!!

When the engine cut out on you what actually happened? Any loud noises or whatever? Stupid question...but I'll ask anyway....is your oil level OK. You haven't lost all the oil have you? The compression can be checked using a checker (around £20) but you can just pull the plug out and spin the motor briefly and put your finger over or near the plug hole. You'll feel the pulses of air when the piston comes up. This is not an accurate way of checking it, but it'll indicate if you've got some compression: ie. not holed a piston or dropped a valve. Actually maybe you should open the rocker covers and just check that a valve hasn't dropped before going too far. That noise when you were trying to bump it was a bit loud for just poorly adjusted tappets.

As BonnieBird said, we got back ok. Just a bit of rain for the last 5 miles or so. Just want to add my thanks also to everyone who was involved in organizing the weekend and to all the attendees....what a great bunch of folks.

Great pics all. What a top weekend!! Dans pics work...but you've got to log into Facebook to see them.

Good job mate....thanks for letting us all know. More pooled knowledge!

From the vid it sounds like the bike is turning over fine. Wet plug = fuel getting through. From your description it sounds like the coil is going down to ground. Coil and HT lead/Plug cap is where I would be heading I think. CDI? maybe....but could also be the sender which sends the signal to the CDI when the crank turns. As I said to someone else on here....start with the simple things and then work up from there. Plug first, Coil/HT Lead/Plug Cap, then CDI and sender. Also check the compression. If the compression is down you'll have trouble getting it to fire up. If the guys could only get it to run on higher octane fuel it may be that the compression is low.

The problem with Halogen bulbs is the filaments tend to be more fragile as they glow hotter giving more light. So some bikes that vibrate a lot will go through bulbs very quickly if Halogens are fitted and particularly if the Super White or HID style bulbs are used.

Yeah...it'd be nice if people find a fix to post it up on the forum. We all learn from it and it adds to the collective reference knowledge pool!!

Can you jump the battery from a car? If it spins over ok then it's a duff battery. As Rennie says...a battery can show 12v off load but if you load it up and it drops down too low it'll not start the bike. BTW....I have jump started bikes from a car before....just make sure you're carefull!!

Glad you found the problem N1NJA.....interesting one!!! Good Luck and thanks for letting us know what you found.....stored away for future reference.

No Colin....I think he is saying that main beam comes on in 1 lighting unit when it should be dipped. Switching to main beam brings them both on. I'd need to see a wiring diagram for this bike to be able to help any more. Bob

It'll only matter if you run out of fuel..

So what exactly is the problem with this tank. Is it rusty inside? Will another fuel tap fit it or could you put an inline fuel filter in the pipe from the tank to the carbs? Bob

My guess would be a sticking relay? Check the wiring circuit as each light unit may be controlled by a separate relay. Bob

Looks like we're going to miss the first day fun! Still, we're hoping to get a flier on Saturday morning so should be there before lunchtime with luck.

I guess the other thing about the valve clearances are if they are negative (valves not closing fully).....can lead to burnt valves. I think CtB is right....a good ol' service will do it a power of good! Bob

Have you changed the fluid recently? It is hygroscopic and over time absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. Under heavy use the brakes get hot and the moisture can boil off effectively putting "air" into the system. Other things could be pistons sticking when they get hot. I would go for new fluid (if this hasn't been done for a while) then maybe calliper rebuild. Cheers, Bob

Could be plug or HT Lead or coil. If the plug is fouled or just old it can cause it to hold back a bit when you put the engine under load. I always work on the principle of doing the easy stuff first before looking for a more complex problem. New plug = 5 mins work....fixed? Yes - Happy days..No - Check next thing (Clogged air filter, clogged fuel tank breather, clogged fuel filter..etc) Use the KISS principle.. Bob