Tango

Didn't anyone warn you that once you've got a bike you'll never be rich!......

AA, RAC, Green Flag.......they'll all recover a bike if it's covered......

Personally I wouldn't bother......I've heard of people putting this stuff in and it throwing the wheel balancing out......just join a recovery organisation. .....

Dunno why it's leaking from the gear shift if the bike went down on the other side... Anyway.....If you're going to do the chain and sprockets yourself you'll need a chain breaker and riveter tool too..... Just give the bike a thorough going over whilst it's laid up.....just in case you've missed something. ....

Wait and see mate.....don't get despondent about what might happen......If you don't make a claim, then you can declare that with a clear conscience on future insurance quotes....

Lol..... Fat Skeleton do plenty of biker gear.

You should be able to get the crack in the fairing welded.......don't forget that apart from the fairings a lot of other parts are the same on the Speed 4......so, for the peg and anything else it'll give you more choice.... With regards to the ECU map, connecting it up to TuneECU will tell you what map is in there.....and the TuneECU website lists all the latest maps for that bike..... Hope you get it fixed up ok.

Damn....that's a bugger, mate.......as others have said, at least you're ok. Have a look on eBay for fairings and a peg......you never know......otherwise a respray will cost you a few hundred quid I would have thought... Worth looking at crash bungs for the future.....

Sounds like it could do with a good service. .....I wonder when the air filter and plugs were last changed? My old Speed 4 and Bonniebird's S4 both rev pretty high at first until they warm up a bit. I think it's best not to try to ride off on them until the temp display starts to show a temperature. .....52 degrees seems to ring a bell. Your non-standard exhaust may not be helping.......and you need to make sure it's got the latest ecu map in there.

How about these?..... http://www.danmedicasouth.co.uk/categor ... seat-pads/

I believe thats only for residents and not visitors No it is compulsory http://ukfrancebikers.com/2013/03/16/fr ... l-helmets/ That article is from 2013.......I'm pretty sure they scrapped this idea. When I was in Lyon last autumn plenty of bikes were filtering through the traffic and I don't remember seeing too many of them wearing hi viz either.......but maybe the AA or RAC may be able to supply definitive answers.....

We all do it......

There's a few things you need to consider......A 4 pot caliper will be deeper than your 2 pot, so you need to check the clearance between the rear of the caliper and your wheel spokes......and also that the gap that the disk runs in is not offset on the 4 pot. The 4 pot will also need more fluid movement to operate the pistons.....so your Master Cylinder may not be suitable. And the fact that the caliper is normally used on bikes with a 320mm disk, the pads may not be centralised on the disk. Unless you know of someone who has used one of these calipers on your type of bike I'd be inclined to give it a miss.....

bob they are not air voids.......................theya are custom made one offs making them worth fortunes as they are the only ones like it I like your thinking there Steve......Unfortunately my OCD will not allow for imperfections. ....

So, after a bit of a delay I finally managed to trial run the Carbon Fibre......a few air voids and other little issues, but I think I'm heading in the right direction.......

Congrats mate...... The TT600 power delivery is quite different to the SV650. ......The SV has more low end torque, but the TT needs to be revved......there's a couple of noticeable power steps in the TT power band......The first at around 7000rpm.....and another around 10000rpm......so, just watch out for them the first couple of times you wind it up......

Single carb and single coil?......I'd deffo be checking the valve clearances and compression.....

Spring is sprung, the grass is ris, I wonder where the birdies is? How're you doing Jayne? Last summer we were mainly frequenting The White Swan in Conington on Tuesday evenings. .....even saw you down there a couple of times..... I'm guessing they're still doing the bike nights down there.......so we'll probably check it out around Easter time......we'll let you know......

Nice one, mate.......pics? ....

So, is the problem sorted? Sounds like you could do with a new starter solenoid anyway......

Ha ha.....that'll teach us to read the original post date......

Welcome to TMBF mate. ......pop over to the Newbies section and introduce yourself to the guys when you can. ..... As Rennie says.....check the basics first.......are any lights coming on? Could be a fuse blown. Shorting the starter relay will get the motor to spin, but if there's no power to anything else you'll not get a spark......

A long extention lead?.....One that'll reach from the house to the shed......

Back on track..... There could be several reasons for it........as above, because you're new to biking you probably do have the throttle in a death grip.......but there could be other reasons, like a worn or poorly lubricated throttle cable causing a stiff action (fnar, fnar).....position of the bars, you may be able to move them forwards or back slightly to find a more comfortable position.....maybe a quicker action throttle would help, where you're not having to twist it round as far......

Yep TuneECU is a free program you can download from t'Internet. ....and you need an VAG OBD2 cable, which you can get for about £10 off eBay. ..... I would strongly recommend that you don't go messing with the fuelling and ignition maps though, unless you know what you're doing......and have a dyno to hand.......engines can go bang if you bugger the fuelling and ignition up...... But you can download preset maps for your bike and upload them into the ECU.......and TuneECU is also very useful for diagnostics on the bike if you ever have any problems with it......