rushwind

first check your battery, sounds like it has not enough power to turn the starter fast enough, if it has low charge......(guess what?,,,,,,,,,,charge it up!!!) then see if it is charging?, should be over 13.5 volts or so across the battery terminals with the engine running, if that is ok then think about carbs??

, i fancy south wales tags???

i read the thread on oil,,,,,,,,,,,basically says one can use the car oil in the bike, i'll still use the bike specific, hm, , cos there isnt a great deal of difference in price, especially from halfrauds

x l ent pics

Sundays jaunt.... Vic at Colville http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/mrrushwind/tmbf/26feb2001.jpg Donington, brew in the paddock suite http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/mrrushwind/tmbf/26feb001.jpg MFN http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/mrrushwind/tmbf/26feb2011.jpg

its usually rubber bushes that creak, not metal

betws,,,,,alpine cafe http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/mrrushwind/tmbf/25feb003.jpg

i had an alarm on a vfr which was remote, it also had a remote start included, started without key in ignition, twas a bugger when cold , as the bike had a manual choke???i could start it , but then had to run to the bike, if cold, to tweak the throttle!, key only needed to undo the steering lock , cant remember the make , but it wasnt stock, and i've seen since on e-bay

1ST BRIDGE...IRONBRIDGE, after the snow! http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/mrrushwind/tmbf/bf2a003.jpg

bugger!, am off to st marys loch on the sunday!, would have liked to visit!

cheaper to look for a unit on fleabay

magnetic'L' plates are more robust and flexible than other types,,,,,,,,,,,, just 'brad' some holes through to accept string/cable ties/woteva

the t.t. is not classable as a road race its an ethos the spirit of ( dare I say) biking

i suggested stat as its the most common cause of overheating, , and the easiest to eliminate, just remove from water jacket, suspend in warm water, on string, then slowly heat water with a thermometer in it, note at what temp the stat 'opens', you can see the bi-metal move?, if thats ok , then u can investigate more serious options? ok thanks sorry to be a pain but could you explain it as you would to a child because this does not make sense to me (im not that mechanicaly minded sorry lol) whats the 'water jacket'? water jacket is the term for the metal casting around the cylinders which carries the coolant i think, even with your limited knowledge , you could do this simpls e test with the help of a manual or a local 'friend'?, the thermostat is located ( i think) on thel/h side of engine block,as seated,, there is a manual on the r6 forum? http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/pdf/99-02R6_Service_Manual.pdf

i suggested stat as its the most common cause of overheating, , and the easiest to eliminate, just remove from water jacket, suspend in warm water, on string, then slowly heat water with a thermometer in it, note at what temp the stat 'opens', you can see the bi-metal move?, if thats ok , then u can investigate more serious options?

fan will still come on if stat is not opening/closing as it should???, temp sensor on the rad will make the fan kick in???, i.e: rad coolant becomes hot because the water is not circulating through the water jacket, and the fan alone can not cope alone with cooling, as there will be no /or little circulation checki the thermostat

++1. thats your first check

i'd be proud to be on the island with such a good looking bike!,,,why worry?, go 4 it!

tom-tom is good garmin is best :

Pavement Isn't that where the pedestrians are?..... Not usually when I ride my 'Storm on the pavement. i wasthinking Pottersfield???

i prefer the look of the razor, they both are very similar, , 0.1 mil of protection difference, personally i use leathers of 3 mm minimum, with protek at joints and back

hmmmmmmm, i,m off to St marys Loch , the weekend before this, so i take in maybe 3 or 4 tags,,,,,,,, but this looks enticing! if I may tag along? depends on the logistics!!

Hey Gary, I'm just repeating what they told me. They took the nail out of mine and it was OK.....and didn't charge anything for putting it up on the ramp and checking it out. I know these guys pretty well and I'm sure they weren't just saying it so that I'd have to buy a new tyre off them if the nail had gone through. Just preparing Sigil that it may be a little more expensive than he's expecting......hope to god though that he is lucky and it's not gone through......or, if it has, his tyre is repairable.... I think it depends on the repairer , I now remember reading about high rating tyres not being ( legally) repaired, maybe on a forum thread, but my tyres are Zr rated , on a bird?, i,ve had 2 repaired on it, 1 had 3 different patches cos the repairer thought to do a belt and braces job, tho only one area was letting air in

i lost 2, this is Miners at Winster http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/mrrushwind/tmbf/chall100xx002.jpg and Fishpond c/p, Matlock Bath http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee412/mrrushwind/tmbf/chall100xx004.jpg

Ah that dose seem cheep, prob a bit more for a larger tyre but hopefully under £25 for the job I,ve had punctures repaired for £10, and £15........ best advice is to leave the nail in,,,,,,its as good as a temporary plug( for a short while anyway), only go down the road of temporary repairs as a 'get u home' method,,,,,,,,as lots of professional repairers wont repair a temp fix, that is plug or fluid, , a professional repair should include an inside patch ( not just a plug), then the tyre will last until worn down, or punctured again!