Boothy Posted July 27, 2011 Posted July 27, 2011 How do you push back the pots on the brake callipers... cannot seem to push them with my hands Quote
sparkeh9 Posted July 27, 2011 Posted July 27, 2011 I've only ever done it once (and probably not the right way to do it), but I loosened the bleed nipple to let the fluid escape, and levered it with a thick screwdriver.Of course had to re bleed the brakes afterwards. Quote
Boothy Posted July 27, 2011 Author Posted July 27, 2011 I've only ever done it once (and probably not the right way to do it), but I loosened the bleed nipple to let the fluid escape, and levered it with a thick screwdriver.Of course had to re bleed the brakes afterwards. that's not really a problem as the callipers are off with no fluid in them as I am replacing the brake lines. Quote
Guest Posted July 27, 2011 Posted July 27, 2011 Have you had the pistons out? Cleaned em up? Greased em? HAve you a *** bar can't remember what they are called!!!! (similar to a crow bar - thingy)? Quote
fredc Posted July 27, 2011 Posted July 27, 2011 use a G clamp with a piece of wood to protect the piston Quote
Macie_UK Posted July 27, 2011 Posted July 27, 2011 G clamp. Bit of wood or the old (if you're replacing them) pad across the piston.Pushing it is dead square is the key, if you do one edge at a time it will stick. Quote
Boothy Posted July 27, 2011 Author Posted July 27, 2011 Done it Got new brake pads and braided lines on.. let the bleeding commence Quote
Boothy Posted July 27, 2011 Author Posted July 27, 2011 I finished, Brake pads replaced, braided lines fitted and brakes bleed.Going for a ride now, if not on here later then they broke and I died. Quote
Bogof Posted July 27, 2011 Posted July 27, 2011 Going for a ride now, if not on here later then they broke and I died. Are you dead yet? Can I have your (broken) bike? Quote
Colin the Bear Posted July 29, 2011 Posted July 29, 2011 Have you had the pistons out? Cleaned em up? Greased em? HAve you a *** bar can't remember what they are called!!!! (similar to a crow bar - thingy)? No grease in the brakes please. Lubricate pistons with brake fluid. If the caliper is off the bike you can use a soft jawed vice. If it's on a G clamp with something to protect the piston , piece of wood. Dont forget to copper the backs of pads and sliding areas. Less is more. Quote
megawatt Posted July 29, 2011 Posted July 29, 2011 Sorry Colin , but you can grease the seals before pushing pistons in with red rubber grease. Just don,t overdo it!!! Quote
Ingah Posted July 29, 2011 Posted July 29, 2011 Sorry Colin , but you can grease the seals before pushing pistons in with red rubber grease. Just don,t overdo it!!!+1.And another +1 to the idea of using a decent G-clamp (don't use a cheap and naff one or it might break. So i found) and the old pads. Quote
Guest Posted July 30, 2011 Posted July 30, 2011 i thought you could grease em... back of pistons only thoug i.e seals. Well done boothy few weeks back you didnt have a clue about the chain now your doing brakes Quote
Stu Posted July 30, 2011 Posted July 30, 2011 i thought you could grease em... back of pistons only thoug i.e seals. Well done boothy few weeks back you didnt have a clue about the chain now your doing brakes You mean back of pads and front of piston's And yeah you can use grease near seals and as said it has to be brake grease You can get red or green grease Quote
Boothy Posted July 31, 2011 Author Posted July 31, 2011 While on the subject when replacing the sump plug do you put any grease on it? Quote
Guest Posted July 31, 2011 Posted July 31, 2011 No. Well, I don't, just use a smear of the clean engine oil you are about to replace it with.Do NOT forget to use a torque wrench, set at the correct torque setting. Overtighten that, and you won't be a happy bunny. Quote
Stu Posted July 31, 2011 Posted July 31, 2011 Do NOT forget to use a torque wrench, set at the correct torque setting. Overtighten that, and you won't be a happy bunny. been there done that cracked sump good job i had a spare and the sump was removable some are built in to the full casing like my TL Quote
Colin the Bear Posted July 31, 2011 Posted July 31, 2011 If you don't have a torque wrench, remember that spanners come in different lengths for a reason. No need to swing on bolts and nuts. If you think it may come loose, use a locking system, chemical or mechanical. Just because it needed massive effort to undo doesn't mean it needs massive effort to fasten. I've never owned a torque wrench. Quote
Boothy Posted August 5, 2011 Author Posted August 5, 2011 Right then am stuck again cannot seem to remove the pins from the rear caliper... I have tried with 3 different sets of pliers and they just don't grip them http://i.imgur.com/TbFf4.jpg Quote
Tango Posted August 5, 2011 Posted August 5, 2011 How are the pins secured in the calliper Boothy? Those that I have done recently were like a long allen screw with no thread where they go through the pads. They will be secure somehow.....unless you have already removed the securing device/unscrewed them. In which case it is just a case of gripping them and rotating them back and forwards till they come out. But as Duke asked....do you have new ones? Just in case....although it's not a bad idea to replace them occasionally as they can get corroded and notched through use anyway...Bob Quote
rennie Posted August 5, 2011 Posted August 5, 2011 use a slightly smaller diameter bolt as a driftand tap them out, only if you're sure they'renot still held captive though! Quote
Boothy Posted August 6, 2011 Author Posted August 6, 2011 I ended up doing this...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTmQ7G94 ... ideo_title Quote
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