can anyone get out a broken exhaust bolt?

[buggerit]

as the title suggests one of the bolts has snapped that bolt on the downpipes to the engine block. its been like that for a few months and even passed its mot. theres about an inch left to get hold of ive tried but failed. im going to take it to a garage soon but if anyone thinks they can help its much appreciated.

[Joeman]

Warm engine, loads of penetrating fluid, soak it overnight and grab it with stud extractor or molegrips.

[Stu]

what I would do is weld a nut on to it which will give you something to turn it with plus the heat will help it come off

[buggerit]

makes sense but i dont have a welding torch and never used one. not sure if by the time i bought one i could take it into the garage. would the weld be strong enough those engine bolts get stuck solid.

[buggerit]

would those little ones on ebay do?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLDERING-WEL ... 2323bbac1c

[Stu]

weld is stronger then the material you weld to

[Guest Hodgy]

would those little ones on ebay do?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLDERING-WEL ... 2323bbac1c

 

That won't work, it's just for soldering, save your money

[buggerit]

what about that burner would it be hot enough and sorry as ive never done it before what do i weld with. for example with a soldering gun i would use soldering wire. what would i use to attach the nut to the bolt??

[buggerit]

would those little ones on ebay do?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLDERING-WEL ... 2323bbac1c

 

That won't work, it's just for soldering, save your money

guess that answers that lol thought it might not be good enough

[Stu]

if you dont know what you weld with then forget it as they arent cheap and you will need a good weld on it

I wouldn't buy a welder just for that

this is a very cheap stick welder that I wouldnt even piss on

http://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/ys160 ... tAodhgQA7Q

[buggerit]

ok get the point lol. will drop in at the garage at some point see what they can do. ive seen those easy out sets but the bolts that small i reckon it would bust.

[Tango]

Try some penetrating oil like Plusgas first......let it soak in and then reapply a couple of times and give it another go with the grips......or file 2 flats on it so that an open ended spanner can fit and try that......

[buggerit]

Try some penetrating oil like Plusgas first......let it soak in and then reapply a couple of times and give it another go with the grips......or file 2 flats on it so that an open ended spanner can fit and try that......

 

thanks Tango, will try first actually. i need to buy some files any recomendations??

[Tango]

Try some penetrating oil like Plusgas first......let it soak in and then reapply a couple of times and give it another go with the grips......or file 2 flats on it so that an open ended spanner can fit and try that......

 

thanks Tango, will try first actually. i need to buy some files any recomendations??

Depends on the access to the bit of stud that's left.....but maybe something like this.....

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-homeown ... le-8/60320

[buggerit]

looks like that will do it. when i take the downpipes of theres a fair bit of space. thanks

[Chrissb6]

Hi, I've posted this trick before hence copied and paste

Get yourself a little blow torch and try this trick it works:

Heat the area around the bolt with the torch, once it’s hot touch a candle to the threads. The wax will be sucked into the opening around the threads, and the bolt can be removed easily. The heating and candle application may have to be repeated a couple times. This works on the same principle as "sweating -soldering" copper pipes, it called capillary action. If you cannot get the candle directly onto the threads as it goes into the block use a quick spray of penetrating oil, just make sure there's no flame about when you do this. The trick is to heat the metal around the bolt, not the bolt itself.

Keep us posted:

[buggerit]

Hi, I've posted this trick before hence copied and paste

Get yourself a little blow torch and try this trick it works:

Heat the area around the bolt with the torch, once it’s hot touch a candle to the threads. The wax will be sucked into the opening around the threads, and the bolt can be removed easily. The heating and candle application may have to be repeated a couple times. This works on the same principle as "sweating -soldering" copper pipes, it called capillary action. If you cannot get the candle directly onto the threads as it goes into the block use a quick spray of penetrating oil, just make sure there's no flame about when you do this. The trick is to heat the metal around the bolt, not the bolt itself.

Keep us posted:

 

thanks ive ordered a file and plus gas so will try this first then move on to the blow torch method if this fails! sounds like a good idea!

[Fozzie]

You're on the right track I think...

But my top tip is don't give up, you may be there doing it over and over and over.

Keep at it, some people spend a few days of repeatedly doing it until it comes off. And it will go eventually!

Just takes time and patience, and it doesn't sound too bad so hopefully won't have too many swear words thrown at it

[buggerit]

You're on the right track I think...

But my top tip is don't give up, you may be there doing it over and over and over.

Keep at it, some people spend a few days of repeatedly doing it until it comes off. And it will go eventually!

Just takes time and patience, and it doesn't sound too bad so hopefully won't have too many swear words thrown at it

 

thanks hopefully ill get to have a go this weekend looks like im off the road for now once i strip the exhaust off but fingers crossed ill get it sorted! will keep posted.

[Roadtorque]

give it a load of WD 40 over a few days,, put two nuts on the thread tighten them both together,, get the engine as hot as you can,, then use the back nut to try and undo the thread,, the last ( second ) nut you fitted should act as a lock nut for the first,, as you try to undo it,,

[acting_strange]

give it a load of WD 40 over a few days,, put two nuts on the thread tighten them both together,, get the engine as hot as you can,, then use the back nut to try and undo the thread,, the last ( second ) nut you fitted should act as a lock nut for the first,, as you try to undo it,,

 

Now this is good advice....well done that man...

[megawatt]

Nobody seems to do what I do. Get the alloy around the bolt/stud very hot, then spray the bolt/stud with Plumbers Freeze spray, then jiggle the bolt a bit. Repeat this at least 3 times or until the bolt/stud comes loose. Never failed me yet.

[buggerit]

Its bolted to the engine would it be safe to heat up

[megawatt]

Course it would. The engine gets hot you know?

[acting_strange]

Nobody seems to do what I do. Get the alloy around the bolt/stud very hot, then spray the bolt/stud with Plumbers Freeze spray, then jiggle the bolt a bit. Repeat this at least 3 times or until the bolt/stud comes loose. Never failed me yet.

 

Of course the heating makes the cylinder expand and the spraying of the plumbers freezing spray makes the bold shrink...simple physics...