kitty Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 Haven't ridden my bike (er500) in over a week. Went out to it today and there was a puddle of what smells like fuel under the main part of the bike. There was also a smaller second puddle of what looked like oil under the chain where the scottoiler is... Went to start the bike and it make a weird clunking sound but made no attempt to start. Bike is kept in a cold garage and has been on the side stand for over a week... Any ideas what's wrong?? Quote
Stu Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 clunking or clicking? if it was a rapid clicking sound thats usually the starter relay and is caused by a flat battery the oil could be from the scottoiler and the petrol could be from the overflow on the carbs if one of the float valves has stuck slightly Quote
littlecat Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 ok,to clarify a bit now ive been over for a look, theres no fuel left in the tank, what didn't end up on the floor is now mixed in with the oil., to the point of overflowing.stuck carb float is being suggested as the culprit...though im not sure if there may also be a problem with the fuel tap...its in the on position, but wont turn at all.suggestions/remedies please Quote
megawatt Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 Put fresh fuel in tank, slush it around. Fully charge battery. Turn over while gently tapping float bowls with a wooden mallet or piece of wood. DO NOT USE METAL!!!. Deal with oil once bike is running. Bell me for details? Quote
Stu Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 if the tank is empty and in with the oil the engine will be hydrolocked as the fuel will have gone in through the cylinders hopefully no damage has been caused to the engine!!do not turn the bike over any more unless you know that its not hydrolockedremove the plugs and turn it over by hand and cross everythingalso drain the oil too and fill with fresh Quote
littlecat Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 stu, how the heck do we turn it over by hand ?? Quote
fredc Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 stu, how the heck do we turn it over by hand ?? put it in top gear and turn the wheel Quote
Stu Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 there should be a plug on one of the side casings you can take off and put a socket on the crank Quote
Stu Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 stu, how the heck do we turn it over by hand ?? put it in top gear and turn the wheel this is all good and well but you need to be feeling for any resistance while turning it as hydrolocking can kill an engine big time! Quote
megawatt Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 If there is a chance of fuel in the oil, best to drain the oil, before turning over. Quote
littlecat Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 ok cool, now how do we diagnose and fix whatever has caused this in the first place Quote
littlecat Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 ok, so first we drain the oil ( which is now 90% fuel), then we remove the plugs, then we manually start it ....is that right so far?do we need any fuel in before we attempt that? Quote
megawatt Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 NOOOOOOO. Drain the oil. Allow air into and out of crankcases via oil filler and oil drain plugs. Pull fuel line off fuel tap , put a little fuel in tank. If no fuel flow, put fuel line back on. Remove plugs and turn engine over to check for fuel in cylinders. If all is good, replace oil drain plug and put oil into engine. Spin over with plugs out. Drain oil, check for fuel in it. If no fuel in oil, put it back in engine , replace plugs and start engine. Tap carb float bowls with wood to hopefully unjam a stuck float bowl. Fuel should not have got into engine unless fuel valve is faulty and carb bowl stuck. Bell me ? Quote
Stu Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 what I would do is drain the oil remove the plugs turn it over by hand feeling for any roughness it all feels smooth and no notchiness and no locking up then put fresh oil in and plugs then look at the fuel tap if it has a vacuum hose check all the diaphragm and seals replace if you feel you want to they are only cheap remove carbs and clean them out and set float height then assemble and put fuel in and start Quote
littlecat Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 wont be able to get over there for another look till the weekend.., ok , most of that makes sense...the carbs bit is where I get totally lost Quote
Stu Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 buy some carb cleaner and remove the carbs take the float bowls off (the bottoms) and clean them out inside there will be a plastic float attached to a valve make sure its not sticking if you can get a manual you can set the float height Quote
BikerMooFromMars Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 Good luck with it Kitty & Cat! Hope you can sort it out. Quote
Grumpy Old Git Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 A fairly easy but time consuming job.Agree with Stu's approach.One point, once you have re-assembled the bottom half of your carbs (float chamber)., re-check that fuel is not flowing into the engine (i.e. still got a mis-set or 'stuck' float).As to the fuel tap - WD40 is your answer. Spray around the spigot; leave a few minutes, try and turn the tap. Repeat until you get full movement. Prevent from 'siezing' again by always switching off when you leave the bike (this also stops the fuel from draining through the carbs whilst stationary).Enjoy the task! Quote
OhJay Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Prevent from 'siezing' again by always switching off when you leave the bike (this also stops the fuel from draining through the carbs whilst stationary). There's no off Al, it's a vacuum tap Quote
Stu Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 It sounds like it's stuck or the seals are split I would rebuild it personally Quote
OhJay Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Think that's the way we're leaning Stu, as far as we can work out it has to be combination of the tap and float. If either was working properly it should stop the fuel all dripping down into the engine.Float could just be stuck and/or mucky rather than anything broken but the tap sounds like a definite culprit. Quote
Stu Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 If one or the other is working it won't happen so it is definitely both Quote
Grumpy Old Git Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 ...though im not sure if there may also be a problem with the fuel tap...its in the on position, but wont turn at all.suggestions/remedies please Stu - I just assumed that if it 'wont turn' then it should be able to turn!My mistake! Quote
Stu Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 ...though im not sure if there may also be a problem with the fuel tap...its in the on position, but wont turn at all.suggestions/remedies please Stu - I just assumed that if it 'wont turn' then it should be able to turn!My mistake! It's may have a reserve but no off position Quote
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