Stu Posted February 23, 2014 Posted February 23, 2014 Nothing in the rule book about not sticking a hose through the engine to give it a clean out if you're going to do a rebuild!Look at it this way - if it's buggered anyway then you can't make it much worse. if you have a garage then strip it down and drain oil into a bowl of some sort so you can see any crap in it get your mother a new washing up bowl to match her kitchen and use her old one as a parts washer with a lot of degreaser in it (ps buying mother a new bowl is optional it just keeps her happy for 5 mins ) I have just got some jizer degreaser and its good stuff the bonus of rebuilding is you will be starting with a fresh motor and as if its got 0 miles on it where as a second hand motor could be almost dead when you buy it it just depends how much you want to spend Quote
Tankbag Posted February 23, 2014 Posted February 23, 2014 Take photos as you go along it'll help with the rebuild plus give us lot scenes of horror to gasp at !Just kidding on the 2nd bit, good luck dude Quote
Ricky Posted February 23, 2014 Author Posted February 23, 2014 I've got a fozzie visiting me this weekend to give me a hand I looked at the Haynes manual and it was okay to understand but I need to buy a clutch holding tool, torque wrench and a load of other tools that I didn't even know existed I've got a washing up bowl that mysteriously disappeared from the kitchen a while back Thanks guys for the tips, I'm ordering some stuff ready for fozzie so he can do his magic while I crack on with the TZR, I've sourced an engine!!!!!!!! And new tires fitted on Wednesday! Quote
Grumpy Old Git Posted February 24, 2014 Posted February 24, 2014 I use Parrafin as a cleaning agent.Clutch holding tool can be made at home - Fozzie is sure to have a tip!Torque Wrench is a very handy tool to own - But, I rebuilt engines for many years without one Also pretty essential for a strip down is a can/spray of WD40 (or PlusGas).Top tip: Take your time and if uts/bolts downt seem to want to move, then liberal application of WD40/PlusGas and WAIT should have it moving. If not, then time to get an impact driver.All the best. Quote
Ricky Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 Sorry GOG I never saw your reply, I'm taking it all on board, thank you for your help Also hey guys This is the valves;http://imageshack.com/a/img839/7205/aeg1.jpgAre they okay? Quote
Mr Fro Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 They're a bit cokey! A couple of them look like they've had a little nibble out of the edges - especially the top right.Can you whip the valves out of the head and see what the mating surface is like? Quote
Ricky Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 Hey mr fro I did a little test that fozzie told me to do which was to turn it upside down so the valves are how they are in the picture put the spark plug back in and fill it up with wd40 and if the wd40 is still sat in the top after 5-10 minutes they should be okay.The wd-40 is still in the top and this was a couple hours back Will I still need to take the valves out? Thank you mr fro! Quote
Stu Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 now test it with a lot of heat and under pressure Quote
Ricky Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 A simple yes or no would suffice thank you very much Stuart Quote
Ricky Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 I don't like that either, I prefer the sarcastic helpfulness more Quote
Mr Fro Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 That Fozzie chap knows his beans!How's the rest of it coming along? Quote
Joeman Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 you have to experience valve grinding!!its a right of passage for anyone who takes engines apart...Get them valves out, inspect the seats, and get your sucky grinding stick out!! Quote
Ricky Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 Hey mr fro I'm just getting the last of my items delivered so will make proper progess on the weekend after everything has came I'm just doing the 'easy' things first and getting them out the way with the little tools I have Hey joeman:)Is this what you're on about?http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &langId=-1And what would I do with that? Quote
Joeman Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 Is this what you're on about?http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &langId=-1And what would I do with that? yes, thats the one!watch this video from about 5:30"> Quote
Ricky Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 That looks simple enough! How would I clean the valves? He used an electric brush thing on his, I don't have one of them Thanks joe! Quote
Joeman Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 get a wire brush for your electric drill, hold the drill in the vice and spin it up..what he didn't show is how to get the valves out. you need a valve compressor to compress the valve spring.Not sure if the valves in your engine are the same size, but if they are, once you've taken them out, dont mix them up! make sure you get them back in the same port they came from.But, if the valve seats (the surfaces where the valves seals to the head) are damaged, its a different story... Quote
Stu Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 go get some mr muscle oven cleaner for the head it will take all that soot straight off Quote
Ricky Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 Those valve compressors don't look cheap joe from a 2 second google search they're very expensive I'm completely lost, so am I removing the valves? Cleaning them and putting back in or just cleaning the tops of them? Damn stu had to come and interrupt! (jokes) Sorry Quote
Ricky Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 What's the difference between a 270 quid valve compressor and a 12 quid valve compressor? Quote
Joeman Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 Get the valves open and see if you can see any damage to the valve seats. if it looks nice a shiny and un-damaged, then dont bother taking them out.Worst case is that a valve has closed with a fragment of metal between it and the valve seat and damaged the valve or seat. if thats happened... well, it gets expensive... Quote
Stu Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 probably quality the 12 quid one would do you fine personally I wouldn't remove them unless there is evidence of damage which there isn't on the valve but check the valve seats but I think they will be fine Quote
Ricky Posted February 26, 2014 Author Posted February 26, 2014 Yet another question, how do I open the valves?I've never felt so informed! You two must have some serious patience!I appreciate it loads! I'll open the valves tomorrow after I faffed with my TZR and upload some pictures if I think anything looks dodgy The carbon deposits on the top/bottoms that you can see, will it come off easily with oven cleaner and a cloth or do I need special items so I don't damage them? Quote
Joeman Posted February 27, 2014 Posted February 27, 2014 Yet another question, how do I open the valves?Same way as they normally open - the Camshaft turns and the lobes on the cam push the valves open.So turn the cam shaft the values will open. Dont get your fingers in there! if they slam shut they will take your fingers off!! Quote
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