'97 FZR 600 Restoration

[TheOnlyJoe]

Hi folks,

So I'm on a slow mission to bring my FZR back up to a decent condition - going to take a while, I've got lots on this year, but it will get there sooner or later.

I've got a good to do list:

-Front brakes need cleaning/servicing and probably pads - they are stuck out at the moment and rubbing on the front disc whilst riding

-Full clean and tidy - oil/filters change, service etc

-New Windscreen

-powder coat the frame black

-Paint the levers/wing mirrors solid black (have silver levers and tacky carbon fibre effect mirrors at the mo)

-paint/powder coat the wheels bright yellow - may do the calipers to match

-recover the seat

-review the wiring and make sure its up to snuff, may need a new loom

So a lot to do, but it will be worth it

Starting point below:

[TheOnlyJoe]

first question - how much clearance should I have between the front pads and the discs?

I'm pretty technially minded - i.e. can grab things quickly - but have no knowledge/experience on bikes/mechanics at the moment.

Apologies for the probable constant stream of questions

[Guest]

Hi mate,

The retension plates/springs that sit in the calliper before the pads go in, should hold the pads from touching and rubbing on the disk..

You cant specifically set a gap.

But looking forward to seeing the project progress

[TheOnlyJoe]

Thanks dude.

So I can't set a gap, but there should be one. The brakes definitely need a clean/service in that case

[Stu]

Hi mate,

The retension plates/springs that sit in the calliper before the pads go in, should hold the pads from touching and rubbing on the disk..

You cant specifically set a gap.

But looking forward to seeing the project progress

 

That's bollocks

If they have retaining plates or springs etc They are there to stop the pads ratling

Is the bike hard to push? If not you don't have a problem the pads will rub a little on the discs

[Guest]

Hi mate,

The retension plates/springs that sit in the calliper before the pads go in, should hold the pads from touching and rubbing on the disk..

You cant specifically set a gap.

But looking forward to seeing the project progress

 

That's bollocks

If they have retaining plates or springs etc They are there to stop the pads ratling

Is the bike hard to push? If not you don't have a problem the pads will rub a little on the discs

 

Oh so there is a special little golden screw on a brake calliper that allows you to adjust the distance the pads sit from the disk???

He asked about it rubbing.. and i simply said, you cant adjust it... and yes the retaining springs do stop rattle, they also stop the pads rattling and falling slanted onto the disk itself..

you can remove the calliper without the pads even moving from their positions, until you pop them out of the retaining springs..

http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/Badboyazza_2009/914c21a2-fbd9-430b-b70c-d0122623a91c_zpsea52381d.jpg

look at the picture.. where i marked the red lines.. that is where each pad sits, along side each side of the calliper, and the disk sits in between.

Also notice, where that indent is, for where the pads sit.. after that, it raises up a little, like a little hump??

that stops the pads from shifting towards the disk and making contact with it, until you squeeze the brake lever..

So therefor.. as i did mention in the original post... THERE IS NO MAGIC SCREW THAT ALLOWS YOU TO ADJUST THE GAP SO THAT THE PADS DONT RUB ON THE DISK.... direct copy of what i originally said was "should hold the pads from touching and rubbing on the disk..".. emphasise on the SHOULD HOLD.. obviously this isnt always the case, BUT the retaining clip/spring (whatever you want to call it), actually DOES PLAY a part in stopping / minimising the contact between the pads and the disk, when the brake lever isnt pressed...

So therefor... what i said was not "bollocks" at all...

Take your retaining clips out Stu, ride 100miles and inspect your pads.. there will be inconsistent wear on the pads, that wasnt there when the retainers were in place.... Hmmm, no inconsistent wear when they were there, but there is after u remove them... Hmmmm, so, back to what i said.. the retaining clips do play a part in stopping any binding against the disk..

Seriously.. try it...

you wona kiss my left or my right ass cheak???

[Stu]

Hi mate,

The retension plates/springs that sit in the calliper before the pads go in, should hold the pads from touching and rubbing on the disk..

You cant specifically set a gap.

But looking forward to seeing the project progress

 

yes that is bollocks

they are there to stop the pads ratling not hold them away from the discs

kiss your own arse as you pull your head from up your arse

go back to your books mr super mechanic

[Chrissb6]

Hi mate,

The retension plates/springs that sit in the calliper before the pads go in, should hold the pads from touching and rubbing on the disk..

You cant specifically set a gap.

But looking forward to seeing the project progress

 

yes that is bollocks

they are there to stop the pads ratling not hold them away from the discs

kiss your own arse as you pull your head from up your arse

go back to your books mr super mechanic

Lol almost choked on my Chinese takeaway reading this. Are they not call anti squeal shims Stu?

[Stu]

no thats the ones that go on the back of the pads

not all bike have them and its mainly the rears that do

some older bikes had copper inserts inside the pistons that push on to the pads which were anti squeel

the anti rattle springs/plates/pins whatever you want to call them sit on top of the pad and grip on to the pin that holds the pad in place and stops the pad moving about

god knows how they would move back away from the disc after the brakes are used though but they are solely there to stop the pads rattling about

[Chrissb6]

no thats the ones that go on the back of the pads

not all bike have them and its mainly the rears that do

some older bikes had copper inserts inside the pistons that push on to the pads which were anti squeel

the anti rattle springs/plates/pins whatever you want to call them sit on top of the pad and grip on to the pin that holds the pad in place and stops the pad moving about

god knows how they would move back away from the disc after the brakes are used though but they are solely there to stop the pads rattling about

Made that quite clear thanks Mate, Sticking pads normally mean sticking piston - pistons. So a good clean up is in order, and check the float on the disc's if they are floaters

[Stu]

that was my thinking chris hence my first post asking if the bike is hard to push

if so then its sticking pistons if not and the OP can just hear the pads then its normal

[Tango]

Also the pad guide pins can get rusty and notched which can stop the pads dropping away from the disk when the pressure is released...... I wouldn't leave it long before sorting it though mate......the pads rubbing on the disks all the time can cause the disk to overheat and warp......

[fredc]

The pistons and pads are pulled back by the caliper seals

As you pull the lever the seals distort

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/pics/seals.gif

when you release the lever the seals go back to their original shape

moving the pistons a tiny distance , allowing the pads to move slightly away from the disks

edit : correction

[Joeman]

The spring in the master cylinder that returns the brake lever to its original position pulls the piston out. that draws the fluid back up the brake line causing the caliper pistons to retract and pull the pads away from the disc.

[fredc]

The spring in the master cylinder that returns the brake lever to its original position pulls the piston out. that draws the fluid back up the brake line causing the caliper pistons to retract and pull the pads away from the disc.

 

So how come they don't go back in when you're trying to pump the pistons out

[Joeman]

The spring in the master cylinder that returns the brake lever to its original position pulls the piston out. that draws the fluid back up the brake line causing the caliper pistons to retract and pull the pads away from the disc.

 

So how come they don't go back in when you're trying to pump the pistons out

 

this is a good little demonstration for you:

">

look how when the pedal is released, the fluid comes back fro the brake line into the master cylinder.

Edited March 7, 2014 by Joeman

[Stu]

they do

but only very slightly

[Bogof]

The retension plates/springs that sit in the calliper before the pads go in, should hold the pads from touching and rubbing on the disk..

 

Retension plates/springs don't exist in this context. Anti squeal shims do exist. Neither will hold pads away from a disc.

To the OP: You can't set a gap. If the brakes are not binding then you're looking to cure a problem that doesn't exist

[mattycoops43]

I don't know.

I leave you guys alone for five minutes and all hell brakes loose!

[Bogof]

So therefor... what i said was not "bollocks" at all...

 

Mod: Can we have a poll on this?

[Stu]

So therefor... what i said was not "bollocks" at all...

 

Mod: Can we have a poll on this?

 

I already know the outcome!!

[TheOnlyJoe]

The retension plates/springs that sit in the calliper before the pads go in, should hold the pads from touching and rubbing on the disk..

 

To the OP: You can't set a gap. If the brakes are not binding then you're looking to cure a problem that doesn't exist

 

Thanks Bogof, I'll leave it be then! Its not hard to push (I think) and is just a bit of an irritating noise at times.

Somehow in my tinkering on the weekend - trying to find the loose wire to the gauge back lights that is stopping it working - I seem to have either blown a fuse (not checked yet, got irritated) or dislodged something equally important, as now the bike won't start. No lights, no fuel pump, nothing.

Oops!

I may chicken out and leave this one to a pro to sort to be honest.