The oldest bike restoration thread on here?

[Guest]

A lot of this is going over my head, but I'm finding it very interesting.

It must be very rewarding when you get a finished bike

 

If there is anything you are not sure about ask away. I will try to help as these bikes are very simple to work on and understand how they work.

I find building my own bike from a pile of bits a lot more fun than opening a wallet and buying the latest thing. I have nothing against new bikes as they are awesome bits of kit nowadays. But most of them just leave me cold. I have next to no interest in anything new.

[Guest]

I have realised that I am in the happy position of growing up with British bikes and then also the growth and improvements of Japanese machines. So I think I have a good grounding in all sorts of bikes. So after the last 2 comments I have decided to try to help people understand a little more of the some of the issues and problems people have with restoring old British bikes.

I will start with girder forks.

here is a parts list for a pair of Webb forks very similar to mine. In fact they look identical

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/Webb_1929_popular_model_fork-_spare_parts_2.jpg

here is an overview of my forks before I stripped them

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0852.jpg

My girder forks are worn and need bushing and new spindles making.

This is one of 4 spindles fitted to my bike.

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/spindle~0.jpg

We have on the top from left to right The end nut, a spring washer, a hardened washer,hardened washer, spring washer and the Rh locking nut. If you look closely at the spindle you will see a square machined on the LH end to allow a spanner to be used to adjust any play and a smaller diameter on the RH end.

This one fits through what is now known as a top yoke.

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/yoke.jpg

This is the top yoke with the handle bar clamps fitted. The hole is for a grease nipple. and this spindle fits through the middle of this part. Thsi is one of the parts which needs bushing at both ends to take the play out.

Here is the fork off my trial bike.

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/linktop.jpg

You can see the top yoke in the background. The bright object in the foreground is called a link and there are 4 of these to each set of forks. I made these out of stainless steel on my trial bike as i didn't have any to start with and I could alter their lengths to drop the wheel down. So they are not forged like on my other bike.

These are the actual parts which rotate up and down to give the forks their movement. One side of these has a screw threads and the link the other side has a reamed holes to fit the smaller diameter on the spindle above.

Here is front on view

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/top.jpg

We have from left to right on the front spindle.

The square on the end, the lock nut,spring washer, link(with threads),hardened washer, fork blade,hardened washer,link(with reamed holes),spring washer, nut.

This is basically the same for each spindle and fork pivot.

This is a close up of the rh washer area.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/washer.jpg

To adjust girder forks you need to ensure the hardened washers are free to rotate but not move sideways at all.

To achieve these you must slacken all the lock nuts off on all the spindles. Then using the square ends wind the spindle in or out of the link to take up or loosen the washers. Once you are happy you then lock the other end with the lock nuts. This then pulls the smaller diameter through the link and locks the spindle up against the shoulder on the RH link. You then tighten the LH lock nut up and (fingers crossed) you have no side ways play and loose hardened washers.

Its a bit of a pain and when you put all your newly painted parts in your forks together they take awhile to settle down and need adjusting fairly often at first. You need to wear off any paint on the ends of your yokes and any high spots on the washers. Mine needed adjusting at every trial but now I just adjust them occasionally. Each spindle has at least one grease nipple to service it. This is the most important thing with girder forks. lots of grease and they will last for years. I grease mine before every trial. But on the road it would not need doing so often.

The only damping is provided by (on my forks) a pair of fibre washers which are adjusted by threaded wing nuts. So you basically have either a very bouncy fork with no damping or a stiffer fork. the forks only have one spring and are ok on normal roads. They don't like ripples as they tend to get a bit lost trying to keep up with ripples. so if its very rough you need to slow down and ride up and over the ruts.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/damp.jpg

This is a close up of my lower link with its damper( with numbers from the list above). We have from right to left adjusting square,lock nut(73P), spring washer(74P), link(61p), fibre washer, friction plate(77p), star washer(79P), threaded wing nut(78p)(this mounts on a threaded tube(80p) which you can't see). There is also a hardened washer buried in here but you can't see it

here is a video in slow motion of a pair of girder forks working. They are not the same make as my forks but are essentially the same.

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[ForestRunner]

Interesting.

Looks like the main frame of the bike is moving as much as the front wheel. Optical illusion I guess as the mass of engine and rider is much greater than that of the wheel etc.

Remind me a bit of Jones bikes. He does away with the spring in favour of titanium flex.

[fullscreenaging]

Thanks for taking the time to write all this down.

You made that easier to understand.

[Guest]

No problem guys.

I had a quick play in the garage today and after fitting the old gear change lever that we found round my dads place( which I have been saying for months I dropped off there a while ago) I have finally got a working gear change linkage. All 3 gears now select. Once I get my new shiny stainless lever back from the welder then I am sorted. Plus I have been looking at clevis forks as I need a couple 5/16" Whitworth thread clevis forks.

But I can't get these so I am going for M8 clevis forks as I can get stainless ones of these. I can die down a 5/16 piece of stainless bar .So my whole linkage from the gearbox to where it attaches to the tank mounted hand change lever will be stainless. I was trying not to use metric threads on this bike but needs must.

I did order a load of stainless bar in various thickness's a few years ago from work as I needed to make a load of studs for my trial bike. So I have lots of lengths left.

[Guest]

My sort of washing line.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/2014-04-09_18_24_14.jpg

I popped over to the shot blasters today and pick some parts up. I just given them a blow over with some acid etch primer. We have my fork blade, new tool box and rear brake lever.

The Fork blade and links will be dropped off in Birmingham on Friday to get new bushes and spindles made up.

Here is what 70 years worth of neglect does. Looks like lots of primer filler is needed

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/2014-04-09_18_22_02.jpg

[Guest]

Today i phoned a tank repairers up to get a rough idea of how long to repair my badly rotted tank. I think its been stood with water in at some point as the front RH side and bottom are rotten. He said that they don't do half the job so if they repaired the tank they would expect to paint it as well. This took me back but then I did think about getting the tank sprayed by an expert anyway. Mainly as the petrol tank is the crowning glory on a bike.

He explained that they would strip it (as it was chrome originally) and the cut the bottom out and then have a good look. Then repair the bad area ( but this could get larger once he started working on it). Then once its repaired then they would paint and seal it.

This is the colour scheme I am thinking about ( it should be chrome with a painted panel) but this will do as I dread to think what a chrome tank would cost.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/green.jpg

I was thinking of the dark green that Vauxhall used called Rio Verdi ( as used on 90's Astras and Vectras ) and then I would try to find a lighter green for the panel. As I love that dark green colour.

But just before I hung up on him he uttered the words" but it won't be cheap" . So I am expecting a bill for 100's when I pop over next Tuesday to drop my tank off and get some idea of a price. So if the weather is nice I shall blast up to Sheffield on the M1 and take a nice bimble back to Leicester on the A and b roads.

[Guest]

I had to drop my tank off at a repairers last week. The tank is rotten along the bottom and full of rust so is beyond my skill to repair. In fact any more than sloshing tank seal in and I'm bolloxed any way. So I took the tank up to Sheffield and had a chat. He explained he would leave it in paint stripper for a few days . Then leave it in a rust eating solution for a few more days then clean it and have good look. He explained he would cut one bottom out at a time and then do any repairs on one side then put a new bottom and then do the other side. He said he has seen worse tanks than mine and has managed to save them. I explained I was going to bring up new hand change lever mounts for him to weld on but with getting twatted off the bike I haven't had time. So I will make these up and post them up to him in a while.

I also need to decide the painted panels size and shape for the tank. he has lots of work to do before we get to the paint stage anyway. We then started to talk money and he explained that its was his time I was paying for. he then took a deep breath and said it will be around £600. To which I replied thats about what I was expecting. he did say most people are shocked when he tells them the price. So I have paid a deposit and he has said it will take months to do. to which I replied thats fine.

[fullscreenaging]

Looking forward to seeing the pics of the finished article

[GaryJM]

likewise very interesting thou

[Guest]

Well I have had a day of sorting 3 vehicles out. I first tried to replace both lambada sensors in my car due to it failing its MOT. I managed to get the rear one out but the front one is hidden away in the most inaccessible place possible. So the car is being dropped off on Friday for a retest and to let the garage fit the sensor.

I then fitted my new front wheel to the BMW and got that sorted so I now have a straight front wheel instead of the buckled one after the crash. I also fitted my new indicator units to replace the broken ones and I managed to straighten( a bit) my crash bars. So I can now get the rocker cover off on the LH side to set the tappets. Its needs a good service next.

I also finally fitted my gear lever to the box and made up the connecting rod for the hand change lever on my Panther.

Here is the lever in neutral.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/neutral.jpg

here is the lever in 1st gear.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/1st.jpg

2nd

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/2nd.jpg

and 3rd or Top

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/3rd.jpg

here is the RH end of the gearbox.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/gearbox.jpg

The long lever on the left with the gear on the end is an old fashioned device called a Kick start. This is used by placing you foot on the bar which is parallel to the ground and then pressing down with a bit of force. This then turns the gearbox shafts which are in turn connected to the engine by chains. So downwards force on the kick start turns the engine over. This is how real men you start bikes

The lever in the middle of the picture is the clutch lever. This operates a long rod which passes through the main shaft and disengages the clutch.

The lever on the top right is the short lever i have had to make . This connects the box to the hand change lever on the tank.

Here is the clutch fitted on the end of the main shaft. As you can see clutches have not changed much in the past 80 odd years. This is looking from the front of the bike.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/clutch_2.jpg

The plates which locate in the slots round the outside are the friction plates which have cork inserts. The plain steel plates locate on the inner drum. The new sprocket you can see is the gearbox sprocket for the rear wheel. The 2 bolts you can see in the inner face of the clutch are fitted over large washers which in turn are fitted over large rubber washers. These are used as a "cush" drive to help smooth out the gear changes.

Here is the end on view of the clutch.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/clutch~0.jpg

The domed plate in the middle is the one that the push rod presses against when you pull the clutch lever in. This causes the domed plate to lift slightly thus freeing up the plates from the spring pressure. This allows them to spin freely. The large nut and slotted bolt in the centre are used to adjust the clutch free play when you first set the clutch up. The 4 springs with slotted nuts fit in "cups" in the outer plate and are adjusted to apply more or less pressure to the plates.

I am also getting the loan of a spot welder tomorrow so I will start making up the extension pieces for my primary chain case. I can then finish off this part of the bike by cutting the footrest hangers to size and mounting the chain case. I will then move onto getting rear wheel made up so I can fit my rear guard and tool box and number plate. Once these bits are done I think I can get the frame away for blasting and painting.

[fullscreenaging]

The long lever on the left with the gear on the end is an old fashioned device called a Kick start. This is used by placing you foot on the bar which is parallel to the ground and then pressing down with a bit of force. This then turns the gearbox shafts which are in turn connected to the engine by chains. So downwards force on the kick start turns the engine over. This is how real men you start bikes

 

 

[GazzyG]

Loving it, lol

[Guest]

Well its been a bit quiet on the rebuild front. Mainly down to me being pissed off with my old job and it being too bloody hot these last few weeks. But the new job is great and I am getting my head round the rebuild. The tank guy phoned me up to say he waiting for the brackets i need to make to weld them on the tank and then he can start the paint. So I have made a couple of brackets and will pop them over next weekend along with the gear lever and a spare tank so he can make some measurements. I also phoned about my forks being re-bushed and he is know doing them.

I have also found a place to make a door so I can finally get 2 bikes in the passageway next the garage and then I can get into my garage and start the big tidy up. So watch this space.

[Guest]

Well the rebuild has been at a dead stop this summer. But things are stirring again. I have had a major hold up with trying to source a primary chain case for this bike. I have had a couple of cases to try to modify but I have not been happy with them. mainly due to me not being a sheet metal worker.

But last Thursday my section of the VMCC held a charity auction. One lot was some Villiers engine cases mixed in with a fibre glass primary case. I took a punt of the lot and spent a whole £4 on it. I then sold the Villers stuff for £2 so have ended up with a case for £2.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/DSC_0220.JPG

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/DSC_0221.JPG

once I got the case home I tried it on the bike and it is the right length. It will need modifying slightly to make it fit. but I figured fibre glass will be easier to work with than sheet metal.

[Guest]

I had some good news this week. My tank has been repaired and painted. So I popped over on my way back from a job today and picked it up. To say I am chuffed to f*** with it is an understatement.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/tank2.jpg

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/tank1.jpg

Considering the state of it in the first images in this thread the transformation has been brilliant. I have now got the impetus to get my finger out of my arse and get going with this bike

[Guest]

I have just spent the last couple of days redo the roof over the passageway next to the garage. So once I have secured the doors I can move a bike into this and then finally have a bit of space to get on with the rebuild. I have bought a new rear mudguard and stays and have handed my dads primary chain case to a fellow trials rider who is knocking out sheet metal cases to order . So fingers crossed I should have a new chain case for out next trial.

I have had the wheel hubs powder coated and am going to sort some stainless rims this month and then I can then start sorting out the mudguards and other associated bits.

[fullscreenaging]

Thant tank looks sweet!

[Guest]

There is progress.

I am in the middle of sorting my garage extension out. IE the passageway next to the house. I have re roofed it, and had a gate fitted at the garden end. I have now fitted locks and bolts to both gates and once I get some ground anchors fitted I will stick a bike in there. This will then give me a bit more space in the garage to get stuck into the rebuild. I dropped my wheel hubs off at a mates who is sorting out stainless rims and spokes. I will then have a go at wheel building. I mean how hard can it be

I phoned the guy who is re furbing my forks and he is hoping to have them finished by the end of next week. So that another item crossed of my non existent list. I have now got a new rear mudguard and stays to fit once my wheels are done. A fellow trials rider is making an new primary chaincase for me in alloy using my dads original one as a copy.

I have dropped the engine out and its sitting on the bench waiting to be ripped apart and then cleaned out and re built. I intend rebuilding it as it is after a good clean as it looks like it was running when it got took of the road. So if it aint broke then I'm not going to fix it.

Today I stuck my magneto on the engine to try to sort out the straps. As this engine never had a magneto fitted as standard. I have a set of clamps but they are for a different ignition system.

here is one of the clamps next to the mag. As you can see its too long.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/clamp1.jpg

So after a bit of thought I came up with a plan. I ended up cutting the loop off the bottom of the clamp and then gradually shortening the remaining bits until they were long enough to fit over the cut off bit. I then bent a couple of folds into the strips (using a tool I made a while ago to set the edge on some metal bits I wanted welding). This then allowed me to slide the loop I had cut off into the folds and then I will be able to rivet it together once I am happy with both clamps.

here is the front clamp finished with a bolt pushed through the hole to test fit it.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/clamp2.jpg

You can see the folds I had to put into the bottom of the strip and the cut off part in between. I will do the rear clamp tomorrow as it a job that takes time and trial and error to ensure its long enough.

Once I am happy with these clamps then the engine is coming apart. I will take some photos of the internals while I have it apart.

[Whitey1984]

Excellent thread, very informative, learnt a few things reading this from the start.

That tank looks awesome!! keep up the good work

[Guest]

I managed a few more hours in the garage today.

The clamps are now finished and just need riveting up.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/clamp3.jpg

Oh by the way the black pick up is facing the wrong way and will need turning round. The HT lead comes out of this and goes to the spark plug. The slotted bolt you see on the LH side is where the advance and retard cable fits. This allows me to alter the ignition timing from the handle bar lever. No auto advance and retard for me.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/clamp4.jpg

I have now made a start on the engine. I took the head off today and will drop the valves out to check the guides and regrind the seats.

Here is a top down shot of the head with the exhaust valve to the right.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/head.jpg

The 3 holes you can see in each rocker are there to allow the oil spray to reach the rocker spindles. The oil is sent to the inlet rocker spindle and then gets thrown about this area by the movement of both rocker arms. It seems a bit Heath Robinson but as there is no wear on the rockers or spindles then it must work.

The spring that you can see at the bottom is to the valve lifter lever.

Here you can see the valve lifter lever.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/head1.jpg

This lever is attached by a cable to a small lever which sits below the handle bars on the clutch side. This lever is usually a small 2 fingered lever which is used on a single to help start the bike or to stop it when it running. As there is no ignition key on this bike and no physical way to stop the engine once its running apart from turning the fuel off or pulling the plug lead off. To stop the bike you just hold the valve lifter up until the bike stops. This lever actually pushes against a small extension to the exhaust rocker arm and physically lifts the exhaust valve off its seat and allows all the gases in the combustion chamber to exit through the exhaust. So stopping the engine. The lever in this shot is actually a new one for the 600cc singles that Panther made for years. as such it was too long for my bike. So I had to grind about 10 mm off the length and the use a carbide drill to re drill the hole of the "spoke" which attaches the lever to the cable. This lever is hardened hence having to use a carbide drill to make the hole.

To start any big brit single you must use the valve lifter otherwise you will never kick it over compression. The starting ritual from cold is first turn the petrol on. Then "tickle" the carb by pressing a small knob on the float bowl. This holds the carb float down and allows the float chamber to over fill with petrol. Thus ensuring that you have petrol rich mixture to help start the cold engine. This is exactly what a choke achieves but that does this by restricting the air to allow more fuel through than air. You then turn the engine over slowly with the kick start until you reach compression and it wont turn any more. You then use the valve lifter and move the kickstart lever another 1/8 of turn . This moves the piston past TDC ( Top Dead Centre) and past the compression part of the stroke. The engine is now in the position to start. A long swinging kick is then applied to the kick start and due to the mass of the flywheels the engine will turn its self over a couple of times and hopefully start. If it doesn't then you must go through the ritual of finding TDC and then moving the piston past it again.

If you ever see any footage of big single cylinder racers being bump started then you must ensure you are past compression again other wise the back wheel will lock up. But to do this prior to bump starting you just push the bike backwards until you cant go any more and then the engine is already past TDC so is now ready to bump start.

[Guest]

Well its been a bit quiet on this thread for a while. But things have been afoot. But what with having major issues with the Ural which entailed a complete engine strip down and rebuild and still not managing to fix the bloody major oil leak. So I have got the arse with that and am looking out for a BMW R80 engine to fit . Its still ridable but I need rubber overshoes . But that took about 3 weeks of valuable garage time. I have also been repainting the trial bike and giving it is yearly major deep clean. So thats more time lost for this bike.

But the news is my forks arrived a while ago from the nice man who re bushed them and made four new spindles. he also straightened them as they looked the had been side swiped many years ago. I also dropped my hubs off at the re builders and they came back this week. I have managed to find a very nice man who says he can repair ( which basically means making a new one) my battered old front mudguard. He panel beats old cars and judging by the standard of cars in his works shop he knows his stuff So fingers crossed that will be done by Xmas.

But with all my bits coming back home I have cracked on with doing a dry build. The forks are back in and working and I have stuck new tyres on both wheels. Both wheels need a slight tweaking with spacers remaking to shift them slightly. But the wheels are about right now. I have also been told of a guy who can skim brake drums on completed wheels who is close to home. So I will drop them round soon.

I hadn't realised that I was actually building a pit bike as when I dropped the bike of the cut down seat I use as a bench to work on the bike it seems rather low.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/side~1.jpg

Here you can see the new rear guard which I plan to mount next now the wheels are in. Once that mounted I can add the number plate and toolbox ( as the toolbox is bolted onto the mudguard) . Once the rear guard is mounted I can buy some silencers ( £94 each OUCH) and then take the bike to get some stainless pipes bent up. Due to me wanting high level pipes then these mount of the rear mudguard mounts. The grey item pointing down at the ground near the front of the engine is the rear brake lever. This connects the the rear brake by a long rod. The clutch cable needs shortening. You can see what I mean about it being low as I am about 5' 11".

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/side1~1.jpg

I think the footrests need dropping a bit and the red plates on the front of the engine are to hold the frame level on my bench when the wheels are out. I have not put my new tank on yet as I don't want to scratch it so this one will do for now.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/side2.jpg

The other side. Note the front guard mounts which came off my original mudguard. I have fitted my new bars and levers and am in the process of making or fitting when obtainable new cables.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/front2.jpg

My re built forks. These need grease nipples fitting and the top spring mounting bolt making. I just have some M8 studding holding the spring in at the moment. But other wise are ready to go.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/wheel.jpg

The front brake which is a whole 5" ( 127mm) diameter.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/rear.jpg

The rear brake which is 6"(153mm) diameter. the thinking behind a larger back brake was due to the poor roads back then so more rear wheel braking was safer as its easier to control a back wheel slide and also due to the right hand having to change gear so not always being in contact with the handle bars then the foot did most of the braking.

http://www.russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/bmw.jpg

Just to give you some idea of how small this bike it here it is next my beamer.

The centre stand we found round my dads place is away at the welder having the worn holes built up so I can file them round again. I have also got to make up some centre stand mounting plates which I am in the process of knocking up. but unfortunately my contact at my old work place has just retired so I have now got to buy my own steel. The plan is to get the bike done by the winter and then strip it down and get it painted. But I am going to have it on show at Founders day on the 19th July at Stanford hall.

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/2015_POSTER-page-001.jpg

This is our section annual bike show and is usually a cracking day out. So if you fancy a look at lots of very nice bikes ( the bike park is normally full of very nice stuff as well) and having a wander round the massive auto jumble then pop over and hunt me down while you are there. I will be there with my trail bike as well as this one. In fact we are staying over sat night to make sure the beer doesn't go off. If anyone fancies meeting me then PM and I'll give you my number.

[Guest]

The Bike now has stand.

After many many hours in my hot garage this week I have finally got a the stand and its mounts sorted. We found the centre stand in my dads garage. But I didn't have any idea of what the mounts looked like. So a quick post on a Panther forum and some photos were obtained. I have had to make 2 steel plates which mount on the frame ( well I have made 4 as my dad needs a pair as well).

I then knocked up some shouldered nuts out of 24 mm hex stainless bar and turned some collars to suit.

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/stand.jpg

Here you see the a nut fitted in the stand and the collar. The stand had been welded up to take the wear away so I spent about 2 days filing both holes to suit. both these items are too long so i could get them to fit when I was happy with the sizes.

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/stand1.jpg

Here you see the stand mounted loosely. I will get it all the plates and spacers welded up once I am finally happy with it. It needs a stop for the down position making and also for the up position. The large nut you can see needs sliming down but it was too bloody hot to do anymore today. I need to make a spring mount up as well.

[Guest]

More progress.

All my bits came for my rear brake today. 4 ft of stainless rod and some clevis joints plus a rear brake adjuster.

So today I made the brake rod up and die cut some threads on the end and fitted my rear brake. I will finally cut the rod to length once I have the footrest mounted in the correct place and then I can get the lever about right.

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/brake~0.jpg

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/brake1.jpg

I have some rivets coming and have just bought a rivet set tool so I can rivet the mounts onto the mudguard as that is my next job. Fit the rear guard.

[Guest]

I stuck a wanted ad in the VMCC journal this month for a kickstart for my bike. As they are like rocking horse poo apparently. I have a butchered one we cut up years ago to use when my trial bike was first being ridden in vintage trials the mid 70's . I have asked all the usual suspects for a lever and no joy. I assumed that I would get at least 1 reply to my wanted ad. But no not a sniff.

Well I did get an email which i thought was odd as I didn't stick me address in the mag. It turns out it was from my dad and he just so happened to have spare kickstart lever kicking around. The actual quadrant that engages with the kick start gear mechanism in the box is worn but the one on my butchered lever is fairly good.

Aren't dads great

So here we have a kickstart lever. it needs chroming but then I have a few other bits which need doing as well. The footrest is now the right length and means my leg clears the gear lever and I can also reach the rear brake as well.

http://russianbike.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10002/DSC_0458.JPG

I am hoping to get all the rest of the bits I need at the auto jumble at founders day on the 29th.