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When to start cold bike after oil change


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The engine had no oil so I was not able to heat it before draining/filling.


I've filled my bike with around 3 litres of oil, manual says 3.3 when not doing the oil filter. I'll top up when the engine is hot etc


Thing is there is only around a mm showing in the sump window. Its not even at the L mark. No leaks anywhere (yet!)


I'm aware the thick gooey oil will take a while to drop down around the cold metal but when can I start the engine? Do I have to let the oil settle for a few hours?


I'm afraid to start it in case the engine seizes. I'm at the last hurdle now and don't want to blow it. Literally lol


thanks

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you can start it straight away


but you should have oil above the lower mark at least


are you checking the level properly? some bike require a specific way to check the oil

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Yeah the bike is on the centre stand on a flat-ish surface in my garage.


I know there are 3 litres dropped in there compared to hardly any before.


I'll leave it for a bit and recheck.


thanks

Graham



EDIT - I'll check the Haynes in a few mins, now I think of it I'm sure it has to be on the side stand.

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Well its got about 3.4 litres in now.


Started it and after a bit of grey smoke etc its idling fine.


Let it run for 10 mins, still not showing above the L mark for the oil level.


I can rock the bike to the right and see the level increase but when upright it falls below again.

Maybe it needs more oil?


Bike has to be on centre stand to check level which it is.

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if your using the measure on the side of the oil tub then its not that accurate


I would top it up till your between the lines :thumb:


the capacities are 3.3 no filter 3.5 with filter and 4.7 for a dry engine!


if the bikes been stood a bit you may find that your fill a partially drained engine

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Ah that'll be it then. Dry engine!


I poured out what was left of the Castrol 4L container into a measuring jug and there is just under 700ml so I have put in 3.3L.


I'm assuming because the oil escaped from the broken generator cover with the bike flat on its right side that more oil was lost than if It had been drained from the sump.


I've been back in the garage and checked again after the bike has been stood for a few hours and its the same.


Methinks you solved it with the 4.7L.


I'll fill again in the morning, I can always drain some off if I overfill.


Thanks for your advice

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let us know the outcome but it should only take around a litre from lower line to top line and you only need to fill between the lines so it doesnt need a lot :)

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How flat is your surface? I know my ZZR can be near the upper mark when on an actual flat surface but if I then check on a "flatish" surface it barely shows above the first line. Can make checking it on long journeys a royal pain in the bum.

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Its reasonably flat, the garage floor.


I've always checked the bike in the same position after the last oil change, which was done by mobile mechanic, so I can be reasonably sure the position is ok.


Doing the work on the bike myself now as cheaper and more fun.


When this is all sorted the next thing I am going to do is clean and sync the carbs. I bought a 4 way Morgan Carbtune shortly before the accident so haven't used it yet. Should be fun to do next spring!


Thanks to all for helping :D

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If you wanted to get it spot on you would need front and rear paddock stands to get it dead level :thumb: If you check it on the centre stand and then on the deck it will be over the full mark, so as the previous posts have said if you do it to the middle you wont be far out :cheers: It will also give a different level again if like mine it's jacked up at the rear a little bit so again it depends on how anal yo really want to be :booty: Mine is jacked up by 30mm and although it's not too much does make it show higher than it is so all things to take in to account :thumb: Hope this helps and gives you an idea on how it can be effected :thumb: :thumb: :salute:

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