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Fuel guage not working. Help required.


Phooey
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I pulled the float assembly this morning expecting it to be all solidly covered in Petseal. It wasn't. It moves completely smoothly and freely.


Any ideas where I should look next? Was working fine before I started my little revamp job and as far as I can tell have not disturbed any electrics. All other dials and lights on the dash work fine.

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I pulled the float assembly this morning expecting it to be all solidly covered in Petseal. It wasn't. It moves completely smoothly and freely.


Any ideas where I should look next? Was working fine before I started my little revamp job and as far as I can tell have not disturbed any electrics. All other dials and lights on the dash work fine.

 

If you have a multimeter, set it to resistance and disconnect the float switch. Then measure the resistance of the float switch, move the float and check the resistance changes. This will tell if the float assembly is working. If ok then check the rest of the wiring back to the gauge.


HTH.

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I pulled the float assembly this morning expecting it to be all solidly covered in Petseal. It wasn't. It moves completely smoothly and freely.


Any ideas where I should look next? Was working fine before I started my little revamp job and as far as I can tell have not disturbed any electrics. All other dials and lights on the dash work fine.

 

If you have a multimeter, set it to resistance and disconnect the float switch. Then measure the resistance of the float switch, move the float and check the resistance changes. This will tell if the float assembly is working. If ok then check the rest of the wiring back to the gauge.


HTH.

 


It would if I had a meter :(


Sadly I don't.

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Some bikes have REAL gauges. :wink:

pft I have an trip odometer and fill up when it gets to about 120 :lol: In theory I reckon I could easily get to 160 / 170 but I chicken out :lol:


Phooey have you tried tapping on the glass really hard? Worked in one of my old cars :lol:

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Ok, so I put a piece of wire across the terminal of the connector, - loom side not float side - and turned the ignition on. The gauge slowly moved all the way up to full.


So the issue MUST be from the float side.

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OK ... bought the meter.


Tested the assembly, getting 10 ohms in one position (assuming full) and about 120 ohms in the other position (assuming empty).


So gauge is ok AND it would appear sending unit is OK. Would be reasonable to assume that wiring between both units is also ok.


Any idea's.??

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Everything seems to be working fine EAB ... I connected the assembly to the plug and moved the float with my hand and the gauge responds. I've put it all back together now and will try some more petrol in the tank. I'm hoping the 5l I put in wasn't enough to move the gauge (forever the optimist). I seem to have rather a large reserve on this one.

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It sounds like the float isn't floating. Can you take the float unit out again, I know you have 10ltr of fuel int there. Then if possible lower the float unit into some liquid and check that it does actually float and move the sender arm.

Otherwise is there anything in the tank that is stopping the float from moving, annoying bit of pet seal?

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It sounds like the float isn't floating. Can you take the float unit out again, I know you have 10ltr of fuel int there. Then if possible lower the float unit into some liquid and check that it does actually float and move the sender arm.

Otherwise is there anything in the tank that is stopping the float from moving, annoying bit of pet seal?

 

Will try floating the float! Have to be tomorrow.


As far as anything interferring ... can't tell. I did look but couldn't see anything.

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Do you have a picture and description of the pins on the gauge?


Like V+, V- Sig in, Sig out. That kinda stuff?


Shorting out its signal will get a high or low (full/empty) reading. But it could be broken so that's all it can manage now.


The gauge is a surprisingly sensitive piece of kit, you'd be better replacing it for a new one that operates between 10-120ohms.

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