Maintenance

[Adsh]

Hi guys & girls,

Having ridden my bike for just over a week I figure its time to make sure its all running as it should etc...

Where should I start? the bike has 25k on it, and no history I assumed it would be oil, air filter etc?

Any help and advice appreciated

[Glorian]

I'd check the essentials.

Tyre tread/depth/damage

Tyre pressure

Brake pads (unless you have drum)

Brake fluid (maybe flush it if it looks dark)

Clutch fluid (if you have any)

Oil change, may as well do the filter while here as they're about £5

Spark plugs get them out and see how they look.

Chain wear

Chain clean/lubrication

Chain adjustment

That should get you started

[eastanglianbiker]

as above start with the basics like tyre condition and pressure chain condition and tension adjust and lube,oil level,as you dont say what bike it is then if water cooled check coolant level as well

[Westbeef]

See if they do a Haynes Manual for your bike, they're excellent and show how to do each maintenance task.

[Glorian]

See if they do a Haynes Manual for your bike, they're excellent and show how to do each maintenance task.

 

Can't recomend this enough

[Adsh]

Sorry it's a cbr125 I have just brought an owners manual off ebay off to the Haynes museum soon so will keep an eye out for one:)

Tyres are all good going to change brake discs and pado soon and probably chain and sprocket

Will replace all fluids top:)

[Glorian]

Pro-tip when you change the chains and sprocket. Get the nut off the front sprocket WHILE the chain is still in one piece. Put it in gear and get someone to hold the rear brake. Otherwise you're gonna have a bad time.

[GaryJM]

Pro-tip when you change the chains and sprocket. Get the nut off the front sprocket WHILE the chain is still in one piece. Put it in gear and get someone to hold the rear brake. Otherwise you're gonna have a bad time.

Sounds like you did it without doing that. Also use a breaker bar rather than the the socket driver. You will be able to get more leverage that way and you will need it. Front sprockets are put on at a high torque setting.

[eastanglianbiker]

Pro-tip when you change the chains and sprocket. Get the nut off the front sprocket WHILE the chain is still in one piece. Put it in gear and get someone to hold the rear brake. Otherwise you're gonna have a bad time.

Sounds like you did it without doing that. Also use a breaker bar rather than the the socket driver. You will be able to get more leverage that way and you will need it. Front sprockets are put on at a high torque setting.

that setting is called FT..................in other words f***ing tight

[GaryJM]

If you've never done it before might be an idea if you see anyone else can help you.

I'm nowhere near Dorset otherwise I would offer

[Glorian]

Once you get the front sprocket off it's literally a case of removing some bolts and cutting the chain. easy peasy

[GaryJM]

Once you get the front sprocket off it's literally a case of removing some bolts and cutting the chain. easy peasy

I agree but if you've never done it .....

Or don't have the right tools then not so easy.

[Glorian]

Valid points.

Research before you do it Make sure you have everything. As you're not gonna be able to move it very easily!

[Valko]

Sorry it's a cbr125 I have just brought an owners manual off ebay off to the Haynes museum soon so will keep an eye out for one:)

Tyres are all good going to change brake discs and pado soon and probably chain and sprocket

Will replace all fluids top

 

Replacing pads - fine, but why bother replacing the discs if they are fine?

About brake fluid - if it is clear no need to replace it.

For the chains and sprocket - good idea. You need to replace both sprockets though front and rear.

Assuming your CBR125 is 04-10 model, you need these sprockets and chain: http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/120" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

DID chain kits are good: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/chain-sprocket-kits/bike/honda/2008/cbr125r/d-i-d-oe-chain-and-sprocket-kit-standard-roller-chain" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Get some wood say hammer handle wrap it in old t-shirt and put it on the swingarm and block your rear wheel. This way you can undo the front sprocket nut without having any help. Otherwise you need somebody on the rear brake. To undo the front sprocket nut any 1 meter long pipe will help you. Don't bother byuing 60cm breaker bar. Long pipe will do better job.

Get good chain breaker and riveting tools. Use the breaker tool to break the chain: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/chain-tools/bike-it-heavy-duty-chain-breaker" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Than use the riveting tool to rivet the new chain: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/chain-tools/warrior-heavy-duty-chain-riveting-vice" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here is how to rivet:

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Never use riveting tool to break the chain.

It is easy if you do not rush and have everything ready.

[Adsh]

I was thinking of replacing the discs because I dont know if/when they were done so I figure I might as well do it all while I am at it. Is that not the best approach?

I have a friend who should hopefully be able to assist with most of the work (hopefully, have not asked)

Again thanks for all the advice!

[JRH]

Discs should only need replacing if they are warped or worn to the limit. (This may be stamped on the disc)

Discs could set you back nearly £200:00 for EBC. Pattern will be cheaper.

[Stu]

I was thinking of replacing the discs because I dont know if/when they were done so I figure I might as well do it all while I am at it. Is that not the best approach?

 

 

no its not the best approach

disc wear is measured in the thickness of the disc

the min thickness should be printed on it if its above the limit then no need to replace

you also have to check the run out on the disc to make sure its not warped but if it brakes fine with no judder or pulsing in the lever then it will be straight