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CBR clocks in to Lexmoto


rider555
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I got feed up with reading small MPH dials on lexmoto xtrs clocks, as most of you will know main clocks is in Kph and you get poxy green Mph digits plus the lexmoto speedo are out about 8-10 mph, I have seen this been done on some sort of blog but the guy done only speedo swap with rev fascia as the rev counter won't fit in lexmoto housing, well I decided I was going to run CBR clocks housing with both speedo and rev counter, some modification required, using original lexmoto loom,


1) you need to join indicators as CBR have only 1 light for them, remove both Green wires and feed orange and light blue wire in to same bulb holder, light works

2) you need to swap temp gauge for volt meter from Lexmoto as there are air cooled and don't have water temp sensor

3) fuel gauge from lexmoto as CBR one have another capacitor and not sure if that will work, will test it at later date

4) you need to trim black housing down a bit where is very pointy at front of clocks otherwise they wont fit

5) volt meter very dim as CBR housing have extra shade around bulb so need to cut this down



I have couple of problems - fuel gauge not working for some reason, using lexmoto loom and lexmoto fuel gauge, worked before,rev counter revs to 13k not sure how accurate this is, I am putting all this down to connection, removed clocks now and re-soldered joints ect. will fit tomorrow and test it.


"Question is anyone know if removing ground wire from indicator lights could create a problem with fuel gauge"


To some it might be waste of time on "ching" bike but for me is learning

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Yes you right to some extend, I had to use mobile phone for more accurate speedo and easy read but the whole point of this was that I won't have to do this and don't want my phone strapped to handler bars or satnav, for what it cost me for used set of clocks from ebay I think is worth it. Some might say you should know how fast you going by the feel but I can't say just yet need more experience. Like I said some might see as pointless.

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Looks good.


You might have to fiddle about with the resistance of the fuel sender to get the gauge to read correctly.


For the rev counter - check where the signal is coming from - you might need to tap directly in to the pickup wire to get it to read right depending where the CBR gets it's signal from.

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Looks good.


You might have to fiddle about with the resistance of the fuel sender to get the gauge to read correctly.


For the rev counter - check where the signal is coming from - you might need to tap directly in to the pickup wire to get it to read right depending where the CBR gets it's signal from.

 

Fuel gauge should work as I am using the same from Lexmoto with lexmoto loom, will check resistance on sender unit, rev counter If I am correct CBR take the same signal as Lexmoto from Ignition coil, looking at the tacho markings are Pulse/IGN and Ground Pulse = signal wire, IGN=12v supply and Ground.


Done some cable replacement on loom as I found the ground wire had some corrosion inside, bit of oxidization on connectors is well, all clean now and ready for testing.

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The reason I say about the rev counter is that it doesn't sound like it's doing what's being displayed. If it is then it's all gravy - you'll find out when you take it up the road, if it says you're pulling 15k then you may have to fiddle. :-)


I did a clocks swap on my project and found that I got spurious readings when taking from the coils and tapping directly in to the crank pick-up sorted it.


A good tip with scabby wiring is to dip the end in flux before soldering (plumbers flux works well).

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The reason I say about the rev counter is that it doesn't sound like it's doing what's being displayed. If it is then it's all gravy - you'll find out when you take it up the road, if it says you're pulling 15k then you may have to fiddle. :-)


I did a clocks swap on my project and found that I got spurious readings when taking from the coils and tapping directly in to the crank pick-up sorted it.


A good tip with scabby wiring is to dip the end in flux before soldering (plumbers flux works well).

Thanks Mr Fro


Can you give bit more details what do you mean about crank pick up, don't think the lexmoto have any sensors there.


I got the fuel gauge working and back light on volt meter now.


Still some work left.

93b0c49645a41692fadc0734ca0e7662.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


 

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Little update, rev counter now only revs to 11k, not sure that's how it should be or not as the original was a bit off is well, so looks like replacing ground wire in cluster loom sorted everything out.


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


 

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Result.


The crank pick up is under the left hand engine cover - it's the little black box on the left in this pic:

s-l300.jpg


What year are the clocks you used? I'm tempted to get a set to replace the Chinesetastic one's I'm currently using.

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Result.


The crank pick up is under the left hand engine cover - it's the little black box on the left in this pic:

s-l300.jpg


What year are the clocks you used? I'm tempted to get a set to replace the Chinesetastic one's I'm currently using.

 

ahh ok, didn't know that


The clocks are from 2005 model, I think they change them from 2008 where they have another wire for FI light- engine fault light or something like that, just had a quick look at back picture, wiring looks the same as older models just have that extra wire for FI light, the easy way to spot newer clocks is the will have white shadow around needles and white digits, older have yellow digits.

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A good tip with scabby wiring is to dip the end in flux before soldering (plumbers flux works well).

Careful.....some plumber's flux is incredibly agressive and if you don't clean the joint after soldering it will eventually (or sooner!) fail due to corrosion.

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A good tip with scabby wiring is to dip the end in flux before soldering (plumbers flux works well).

Careful.....some plumber's flux is incredibly aggressive and if you don't clean the joint after soldering it will eventually (or sooner!) fail due to corrosion.

I never use plumber flux for soldering electrical wires etc.


This stuff is great, very nice neat solder joints


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253018379203


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk



 

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