Hairsy Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 Hi, I'm looking to make some cosmetic improvements to areas of surface corrosion on my CBR600F3. I'm not wanting to do a full strip down and powder coat - the bike doesn't warrant it (at least for me). I've attached some pictures blow of some of the areas - these are the main areas but I may treat a few others. I'd welcome suggestions for techniques and products to use for the frame and crankcase corrosion in the picture. At the moment I'm thinking to rub down the rust, treat it with one of the various 'straight to rust' primers that are available and then spray with a suitable paint that is a reasonable match. My questions are: 1) Would you agree with this approach? 2) What products have you successfully used? 3) Any suggestions on how to get a good colour match? A mostly American forum advised me to look for Honda paint code 'NH-211M' but a Google search has not been successful in finding a UK supply. Might it be a different code in the UK? Thank you for any advice - and Happy Christmas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkicker Posted December 25, 2023 Share Posted December 25, 2023 Frame paint. Holts steel wheels. Engine paint. Holts silver wheels. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 On 25/12/2023 at 05:57, Tinkicker said: Frame paint. Holts steel wheels. Engine paint. Holts silver wheels. Hi Tinkicker, Can I just ask - have you used these paints and know they're a good match for the CBR600F3? Just checking before I commit to the job. I can't seem to find them branded as Holts but Simoniz have the same name products and appear to be linked to Holts. Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkicker Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Sorry. I get you into the ballpark. If you want an exact match, it is not my job to do the research. It is not my bike, it is yours. It is your job to do the research. I believe silver wheels is around RAL 7001. Your job from here. This is not a slot machine where you put in a request and get an accurate answer back with zero effort by yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 7 hours ago, Tinkicker said: Sorry. I get you into the ballpark. If you want an exact match, it is not my job to do the research. It is not my bike, it is yours. It is your job to do the research. I believe silver wheels is around RAL 7001. Your job from here. This is not a slot machine where you put in a request and get an accurate answer back with zero effort by yourself. I wasn't asking you to do the research. I was doing my own. I was simply asking whether you had experience of using the paint you recommended with the frame that you recommended it for. And you've answered that question. My apologies that I offended you. It wasn't my intention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkicker Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 (edited) I apologise for being so prickly. It is due to many, many new sign ups arriving here, asking one question, getting a long and involved detailed solution and vanish back from whence they came. All without even a thanks for often a lot of work on the repliers part, or acnowledgement that they even came back to retrieve it. It is incredibly rude and entitled behaviour. I am not saying in the slightest that that was your intent, just that you are unknown to us. You know they came back to secure their haul of answers by looking at the statistics. Answers posted new years day at 9pm. Questioner last visit without even bothering to comment at 10pm new years day, never to be seen or heard of again. Unless the questioner has put in a fair few contributions to the forum, many on here have now stopped giving in depth answers. If you had posted some anecdote or even just a silly joke to start making yourself a member of this community, someone would have probably come along and given you the exact answer you sought. Please take the time to join in with the community, it is a very interesting place. Edited January 5 by Tinkicker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 Thanks for taking the time to reply - and, hey, don't worry about it! I have over 2 decades of regular forum use on various subjects and I get it. Allow me to introduce myself and my project better ... I stopped riding bikes in 1987 when I switched to cars (there's your clue to my age) but decided to come back to two wheels last year. I bought a CBR600F4i that was in OK condition but hadn't been as loved as I wanted. I gave it the TLC that I felt it deserved. It's now looking great and is bang up to date on every service job in the book. I found the process really satisfying and decided that I should get myself a project bike for the winter. Moving on, before Christmas I picked up the CBR600F3 that I've been posting about. It was a non runner and the chap I bought it from seemed a thoroughly decent chap. It's fair to say it was 'as described' on eBay but I've learned some lessons from the experience and the job is a little larger than I'd expected. It's fair to say that I'm not going to make any money out of the process. My target is to enjoy bringing the bike back to life, see it go to a happy new owner and maybe (if I'm really lucky) break even. The obvious first job is to get it running. Compression is good and there's a healthy spark. It hadn't run for some time and, unsurprisingly, the carbs were in a dreadful state. So dreadful that, after some initial efforts at strip down, I decided to replace them with a set from a recently known running bike. I now have those replacement carbs and they are MUCH better. I've given them a quick check and light clean inside but will see how the bike runs before deciding whether they need a full service. The trouble I'm having with these is that the intake boots on the bike are super hard and I can't get the carbs back in the boots - that's my current challenge. New boots for the F3 are cheap but, annoyingly, Honda changed the boots for the last 2 years of the production and none of the cheap ones for sale fit my bike. Assuming the bike gets running, I'll then need to sort out brakes, chain & sprockets, bearing checks, etc. They're all dirty and horrible but, I believe, in decent condition underneath the grime. Time will tell. This leaves the big dilemma that you've been helping me with - what to do about that surface corrosion on the frame. It's not a new bike but I do think that, by the time I've prepared it, it will be really nice. The frame corrosion will spoil it. I simply can't justify a full stripdown and re-powdercoat of the frame. I'd do that if it was a keeper and held a place in my heart - but that's not really the case. So my choices are ... 1) Take off the surface rust and leave it at that, perhaps with a healthy dose of ACF50 or similar. This would improve the look but it doesn't feel quite enough to me - and rubbing down rust and doing nothing doesn't sit comfortably with me. 2) Do a very basic cosmetic improvement - perhaps some silver hammerite just to the areas that are visible when the fairings are on (which isn't much). This of course assumes that I can get something even close to a match with a hammerite-like product 3) My preference - take off the surface rust, put a decent rust-converter / primer type product on there, and then rattle can spray with a decent matching colour The tricky thing is that this is a hobby job and there isn't enough money to enable me to afford to try lots of different things to find a match. Anyway, thanks for your input so far. Please be assured, I will return when I finally conclude my work and let future readers know what I did and whether it had any positive effect. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkicker Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 (edited) I believe this this to be the correct frame colour for your CBR600F4. Honda paint code NH460M. Not tried it though. We love restoration threads. I have two on here myself. Dont forget we like lots of pics. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155474333315 Edited January 5 by Tinkicker 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 If you are after a very close match see if you can obtain a RAL colour chart from an auto paint repairer. you can also buy these for about £15 from various suppliers. some decorating outlets use RAL colours so may be worth looking at these. failing that it is downloading a RAL chart and comparing these to the frame. Not too accurate though due to screen differences. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 Thank you both - really helpful. I didn't really think of doing a thread. Maybe I should. I do enjoy them when others do them. It would be very much at the amateur end of the spectrum though ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkicker Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 (edited) No one wants a master of the universe poster that never gets things wrong. Just post warts and all. That way if you get stuck, someone will chime in with a bit of advice. I was a motorcycle techie for 12 years and got my restos wrong all the time, much to everyone's amusement. Far better reading about problems, feckups and solutions than a " ooh everyone look how good I am" type thread. To start you off. Just finished. Edited January 5 by Tinkicker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 Oh wow - my very first bike was a DT50 of the same vintage. I'll start reading now ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mealexme Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 Oooh, drama. Unfortunately I can't help you with what paint to use, but luckily others with more experience have weighed in on that. I just wanted to put in my input. You mentioned originally about looking at Simoniz products. My personal experience is that you get the odd good product, but on the whole they're just cheap and poor quality and I've tended to stay away from them. Don't feel obligated to start a topic of the restoration, but it would be an interesting read and would probably help you out as you come along various issues along the way as well as helping other members out when they're doing their own restorations 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideWithStyles Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 advice on the hard rubber to try out if your really struggling. very hot water, silicone spray and warmth. place the rubber part into a pan of really hot if not boiling water. this will soften and lengthen the molecules (open the pores if you want to see it), then quick pat dry but while still hot spray loads of silicone spray all over and inside of it, give it a few mins then rub gently in as best as possible... you may have to do this a couple of times or better yet if its absorbed some of the silcone in the first place. just to help it is to put it in a really warm spot with a cover. get it warm, spray the sil over it loads and pop it back in the heated area with the cover so the slicone just doesnt escape, leave it there for a few hours with some heat, come back wipe down and see if its taken it on. another possible is paraffin but there is a risk of it not being 100% compatible so id limit/baby the times... if its helped but not not quite there to get it back over the carb/pipe is to rub a little film coat of silicone or Vaseline to lube it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 Thanks for that. I did try something along those lines but probably didn't leave them heating for long enough. I eventually managed it using Autoglym Bumper and Trim Gel. It's a cosmetic treatment that gets black bits of trim looking nice but I remembered that the parts always feel very slippery when they've been treated. So I applied some to the boots and they then went on. I wouldn't say they 'slipped' on - it was still an effort. But they did go. I think I'd try your suggestion next time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideWithStyles Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 yea you need the rubber to get like you need to wear thin gloves to hold it hot at least, so its active but also helps what little oils are left might pull out of the core to soft all the way through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkicker Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 (edited) Oh a problem with hardened rubber parts? Some have some considerable success in softening them by boiling in water with wintergreen oil, but I gather it is easy to turn them into a shapeless blobs of snot if you do not keep a close eye on proceedings. Never tried it myself though. Anything not cooperating using heat, I just replaced. I may dig up a how to later, depending on how many beers I am about to consume. Internet forums are best avoided immediately after sinking a few. I have been known to make a bit of a chump of myself... Edited February 9 by Tinkicker 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairsy Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 18 minutes ago, Tinkicker said: Internet forums are best avoided immediately after sinking a few. I have been known to make a bit of a chump of myself... eBay can be a pretty big mistake too. So I'm told ... 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkicker Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 https://motofaction.org/mechanical-101/how-renew-soften-rubber-parts-with-oil-wintergreen-methyl-salicylate-gasket-o-rings-seals/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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