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Posted

Hi all, new to here. New to computers and forums full stop really but I am at a loss and was wondering if any experts out there can help? 

I have recently purchased a gen1 MT10SP. Looks wise; much nicer than gen2 in my opinion. Much more unique and stand outs, gen 2 seems to have succumb to the modern way and looks very similar to other nakeds, mainly the triumph speed triple. Performance and power wise the thing is more than I’ll ever need. Rides faultlessly, haven’t got any complaints whatsoever. 

So, you’re wondering what my issue is? I have only noticed this issue as I have started to buy little bits and bobs to tart it up a bit, as you do. I ordered some nice Yamaha frame plugs. When I have gone to fit these (x4), all fit but one. On the upper mount bolt on near side there is a hollowed out hex head bolt sticking out?? I thought maybe some kind of lifting lug for a frame lift, but only on once side?? It isn’t a lost bolt backing out it is solid and all is well, it’s is a 24mm hex. I have looked online at pics of other mt10’s and none others seem to have this. I have asked about and nobody is none the wiser. It is a mystery.

I will attempt to post a pic and hopefully one of you fine enthusiasts will have seen this before and be able to educate me a little. 

Thank you all in advance.

IMG_7178.png

Posted

Ye also no idea but would like to hear a solution.

 

24mm hex you say? That's probably triple the size of any torx I've seen.

 

A close up pic may help.

 

I'm sure someone will have an answer shortly. I'd be inclined to find a workshop manual.

 

This link allows acces to said maunal as far as I understand

 

www.yamahamotorsports.com/yamaha-manuals

 

Found from the link below which gives instructions

 

https://fz10.org/thread/4343/2022-10sp-owners-manual-english

Posted

You will need to crop it to just the volt area.

Have you tried loosen up the other 3 and see if that one falls I to place?

Not uncommon that the tolerance is so small that the slightest move will leave one out of shape and won't fit properly.

Try loosening all 4 and wiggle the frame to see it it falls into place

Posted

You will be surprised how one side affects the opposite side.

You should get used to first put the bolts in without tightening and once all in place properly you will fix them all.

 

Pretty much as you do with a wheel's nuts

Posted

Hi welcome,

looking on the parts diagram posted by Sheperd it looks like an engine bolt that goes all the way through from one side to the other. In my mind if it's sticking out like that it's not in all the way/ seated properly/ for some reason. Hard to say why from a pic. Has it been taken out and put back in from the wrong side?

Posted

I don’t think it is actually part of the bolt. It appears to be some kind of additional bolt on long nut?! The actual frame/engine bolt itself is just your run of the mill shouldered bolt with standard flanged hex head. 

Posted

I might just have to undo it and see what happens. It may just unscrew leaving mount bolt in place, and that’s the end of it.  Just not overly keen on loosening bolts that hold engine in place. 😬😬

  • Like 1
Posted

Maybe a left over from some kind of crash protection or worst case from a set of stunt crash bars

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Mickly said:

Maybe a left over from some kind of crash protection or worst case from a set of stunt crash bars

This did cross my mind, but all available crash bobbins for the mt10 do not mount here. They would get in the way of your legs when on bike. Stunt bars the same really and  I don’t suspect it has been used as a stunt bike as bike is immaculate without a mark on it and with a every pyramid parts extra that money can buy, the 1 previous owner obviously was keen on it looking like a show bike more than a used bike. 

Posted

Well, I got the spanner’s out. It’s just a nut. But instead of your bog standard m12 nut hidden within the frame this is an extended hollowed out nut that puts a larger hex head slightly protruding from the frame. Can’t figure out why or what it was for, but it does the job just fine and if it does bother me then I can just whizz it off and fit a normal nut and washer in its place. 
 

only thing I can think of is; there must of been some form of aftermarket part fitted at some point that required this elongated nut to be fitted. Said part has since been removed, original nut lost and this nut has had to be used to keep engine in frame. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Found part number online and ordered correct nut. Anybody know the torque specs for engine/frame bolts on an mt10?

 

thanks for everyone’s efforts on this. 

Posted
16 minutes ago, Niko001 said:

Found part number online and ordered correct nut. Anybody know the torque specs for engine/frame bolts on an mt10?

 

thanks for everyone’s efforts on this. 

The techical torque figure for a nut of that size and its use would be very tight plus a half turn imo

 

"Most" torque figures can be judged by the size of said nut etc. I've seen very few M12 nuts that don't need a degree of welly to hit 30-40nm, the same with 3-4mm allen key heads, they'd be 6-10nm

 

Just my opinion after a many years of home mechanics. The only really important torque figures are cylinder head bolts or bolts dealing with possibly delicate carbon fittings

Posted

Swing arm bolt.
Some are double ended threaded, so if one or both sides are loose,  left side has undone itself and shifted the bolt off set from centre, then the other side follows so the bolt has moved more, the movement and vibration of the swing arm moves it more.

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