New exhaust

[Alexx]

Hi guys,so i have a 2013 Kawasaki Er6f and i was thinking of changing the exhaust so after some research i found a full system exhaust from Delkevic that sounds really nice.But here comes my problem,my studs are pretty rusted and because of that the chap from the garage said that normally this will be 1-2 hours job but being that rusted it could snap and then it can turn to a few hundreds pounds more.

I really don’t know if I should risk it,I really like the sound of this Delkevic system but on the other hand I can’t pay that much if things goes south.

What is your thoughts on this ?

[fredc]

remember if its already rusty the longer you leave it the worse it will get  and likely more expensive

[Mississippi Bullfrog]

When working exhaust studs expect the worst.

 

Anything else is then a bonus. 

 

Personally speaking I tend to work on the basis of...If it ain't broke don't break it. 

 

If you decide to go for it soak the exhaust fittings in copious amounts a penetrating fluid in advance. There a numerous videos on YouTube showing various tricks with corroded fittings. I used to rebuild 1970s cars which threw up loads of seized fixings. Plusgas works very well. When it didn't do the job then a second application of Plusgas immediately followed by WD40 usually did the trick.  Very rarely did I need to use heat or melted wax.

[Hairsy]

In my experience, patience is the key. Over a number of days, I would heat cycle the studs and add penetrating fluid. I’ve had success with Plusgas and also with a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone.

 

But do it lots of times and over a number of days.

 

My other advice would be to not do the actual loosening yourself if you don’t have experience and want to minimise the likelihood of a big bill. It’s an art not a science and you definitely learn to ‘feel’ what’s happening when trying to loosen. I’m no expert but I improve every time I do it.
 

Part of the art is knowing when to try tightening instead of loosening. Also, after the first tiny movement, more penetrant and then a further delay can be a good idea.

 

Sadly, there’s no guarantee of success.

[Alexx]

Unfortunately I have zero experience experience in bikes mechanics so It s probably wiser not to try something myself.Friday I will go to the garage to fit a new front tyre and they said they will have a closer look and we’ll take it from there.What is certain is if decide to start the job there is no turning back,I will have to expect the worse.

[RideWithStyles]

Well at the moment is there really a need and a rush to do it?

You’ve just paid for a tyre.

Do the studs look like they are going to fail? Is the exhaust going to fail for the next year?

if no then don’t bother just think about it next year And save up for if it based does need more work, if not then great that money will go towards a rear tyre. 
In the meantime between rides you could try to clean the corrosion and soak the studs and protect them yourself from further damage until you really want/have to.

Edited May 15 by RideWithStyles

[Alexx]

I can’t say that its a priority at the moment it s more let’s say a upgrade that I m planning to do to the bike.On the other side that rust its not gonna go away so let s say I change the exhaust system in the future but what do I clean those studs,is it still a complicated job ?

[Alexx]

Just came back from the garage,I changed the front tyre but regarding the exhaust is not looking good.They said that it can be done but 100% it’s gonna snap so that means expensive job,about 4-5 hours.

So at this point I’m putting this on hold because the labour is costing more than the exhaust system,I could get a second opinion from another garage but i doubt there will be a diferent outcome.

[RideWithStyles]

Problem is it will most likely will happen, how many studs and how much work is almost impossible to predict until your well beyond committed, for me I’d predict its every single one and a day of a job including hexicoiling (a mechanic will split his time between it while penetrating fluids do there work) and anything less is a bonus.

As I say if it was essential to have it done right now (blowing exhaust mot fail) then its not worth it just for vanity sake.

wire brush, penetrating fluid, wire brush, penetrating Fluid, when you finished that session leave a coat of xcp anticorrion or acf50, use the bike, then when time do another session above until you at least get the visual surface rust off them (at least it won’t look ugly) and the start thread of the block at least then they dont need to fight that crap and given them some chance and save time and money- you never know.

[Mold]

I'd at least attempt to take the old bolts off, if you can get it loose but it's stiff, use WD40 around the threads then screw it back in, keep doing that until it's out. Use your common sense and if you believe you might snap it, let the garage sort it out. I've removed bolts that were fused with rust to the surface but the bolt itself was clean as a whistle and could nearly pass as new. There's also very cheap tools that will remove a snapped bolt, I have a couple of sets, hopefully I'll never have to use them. If your downpipe is still in good condition, you might be able to just buy the silencer and you wouldn't have to change the downpipe. At a last resort, the garage will have more experience but there's no guarantee they're not going to snap it, you might as well give it a go, you'll never get any experience if you're handing it over to a garage every time it needs something done. 

Edited Wednesday at 09:26 by Mold