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Any ideas??


tony-1977
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There has to be something draining it as that is an usually short amount of time for a battery to last.


You have any other auto electricians you can take it to?

I'm sure that the other ones must have agreed that it's going flat a little to quick? How can they say that's normal?

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There has to be something draining it as that is an usually short amount of time for a battery to last.


You have any other auto electricians you can take it to?

I'm sure that the other ones must have agreed that it's going flat a little to quick? How can they say that's normal?

 

They said it's not normal, just blamed a dodgy battery :?

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is the bike new or old ? sorry if you posted this elsewhere ?


one thing to try to really show it has a drain on the electrics ...


disconnect battery --- leave over night ... reconnect in morning .... if it works its a fault on bikes electric 95% of time ...


any aftermarket accessories fitted ( alarm etc )

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Good idea for a test that :)

 

lol its amazing how many people dive in with bits of wire everywhere before checking the basics...

especially when you get these

There has to be something draining it as that is an usually short amount of time for a battery to last.


You have any other auto electricians you can take it to?

I'm sure that the other ones must have agreed that it's going flat a little to quick? How can they say that's normal?

 

They said it's not normal, just blamed a dodgy battery :?

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really silly thought here .....



when you turn bike off/apply steering lock ( i assume the steering lock is on the ignition switch ) you are not putting it into park light mode ? so that the sidelights are on and if in daytime you may not notice .....

also 4th battery ..... where are you getting the batteries from ? new seconhand ?


and the people you had look at the bikes were competent mechanics/auto electricians not just bloke dowb pub sort of thing lol

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OK, beg,borrow, or steal a multitester with current(amps) reading on it.


10 amps is more than ideal, but you will probably need less after initial tests.


Ammeters need to be in series, not in parallel like volt testers, so disconnect one battery lead(either will do) and complete the circuit by putting the multimeter leads between the battery lead(disconnected) and the battery terminal.


You are now gonna see on the meter, every amp pulled from the battery.


turn the ign on and turn a light on, you will see the current rise, as amps are drawn, ok!


Turn the ignition off and see what happens. Probably with it set on the 10amp scale youll see nowt, so go down the range on the meter into milliamps, and my guess is that you will see a reading.

You shouldnt see anything at all with ign off, but Id guess you can see a few milliamps on the gauge. If this is the case, proceed as follows:


One by one, remove the bikes fuses and replace them, if at any point the reading drops to zero you have found the circuit which is sucking the power. If that fails, try again, but one by one undo (every) multiplug on the bike, again one of em should cause the reading to drop. When you have found a fuse or a plug that causes the meter to read zero amps, check that circuit.

Maybe there is a wire rubbing onto the frame, a switch corroded internally, or similar, but now you know the bit you need to fix.



If you connect the meter as described and there is NO current drain, you are either special! or leaving the side light circuit on(muppet!)


good luck.

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Thanks for all the help guys. Appreciate it.


The bike is 15 months old.

There is no drain on the battery when ignition is off (tested with meter).

Definately not switching parking lights on. :(

When ticking over, shows 13.5v, but when put light on, drops to 9 - 10, until revved, then back to 13.5.

It has an alarm and remote start, but I never use these.

Using NEW batteries from a dealer, not second hand.


I did notice the earth connections could have been tighter. Have cleaned and tightened and ridden 20 miles, will see in morning if any better....

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Look, its like this:


If you disconnect a battery lead and measure current between that lead and the battery terminal and there is non, zero, nada, then THERE IS NO CURRENT! This means that NOTHING is drawing any power from the battery, simple as that.


If any power is drawn from the battery, wether its lights, alarm, or ignition, it travels thru the battery leads. If there is no current draw on the battery at all via those leads, then the bike is drawing NO POWER.


You are either buying bad batteries, or dropping them on the way home, or drastically overcharging them.


There is no black magic with electricity, there is either some kinda circuit, or there isnt. Simple as that.


All the best, Rolla

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its still strange how a batt is leaking that much with nothing being drawn try a diffrent brand or a sealed lead acid gel. try slow charging on 13v 1amp or less for 23 hours this will refreash the batt (does on 28v aircraft batts) ni-cad would be good but bikes charge constant voltage not constant current like a ni-cad requires

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