Stu

because you are 42 you can do your DAS (direct access) which will allow you to ride any bike

it could be that you have too much oil in it as its easily done will it rev without riding it or does it cut straight out? try removing your filter and see if it will rev dont run it like this though

looks like number 11 for the idle screw infact its not the idle screw its the pilot/mixture screw but thinking about it that shouldnt have an affect on it!! as its ticking over just fine? was it running fine before you oiled the air filter?

we need a guide writing up on this really as it gets asked a lot so do a search and you will find loads of info theres also another thread running in bike chat covering restriction the first thing i would do is check out insurance as regardless of if you are restricted the insurance dont take it in to account a V twin or a bike with lots of torque takes restriction really well as do most bikes they will all run well but for overtaking etc you need a torquey bike also think if you are planning on keeping the bike a few years and when you remove the ristriction its a bike jump and what sort of riding will you be doing?

air filter all connected up properly? idle screw set right ? diaphram in the carb not spilt?

they are a waste of time mate let me know when it all blows out pm me for my addy

bring them round mate i will take a look see if i can weld them up for you

get a set of carbone lorraine sbk3 in there you cant go far wrong also if it still has rubber hoses think about replacing them as the perish with age and expand when pressure is applied i would get some braided lines and chage fluid which you will have to do if you replace lines anyway

no not all colin mine came with normal bearings from factory but you can get taper bearings for it which is whats fitted now

does sound to me like it could be drawing in air from that pipe which is the vacuum pipe to the fuel tap to open the tap when the bike is running if the carb was getting too much fuel it would just come out the over flow and you would know about it by a puddle of petrol on the floor and if it hits anything rather hot you will probably see some flames too

tapered head bearings

I'm in hull and pretty handy I can take a look send me a pm

Free play is not up and down and hand tighten will not be enough Best way to check free play is with the forks fitted and grab the bottom part of the forks from the front of the bike facing back and try to move them back and forth

if you have been driving 10 years i pressume you passed before feb 2001? if so you will have moped entitlement already so you can ride a 50cc moped that does less then 31mph without cbt if you want to ride bigger or faster you will need to do cbt which you will already have the provisional entitlement on your licence

how far is the closest one? remove the headlight bulb and ride it there the headlight will be draining a lot ask them for another bike to use in the mean time too

yes but no dealers local to me get the closest one to pick it up

then the bike isnt charging the battery when its running!! is it still under warrenty?

so is it draining the battery when stood not running or when you go for a ride?

have you checked the charging system ? is it putting charge in the battery ?

start the bike put the multimeter across the terminals and see what the reading is it should be above 13v on tick over and hold a steady 14is when revved to around 4k

sounds like the bikes not charging the battery have you got a multi meter ? you can easily check if you have one

no worries sounds like its slightly seized too so make sure you clean it all up properly and then use grease on the slides for the caliper

see other post re muscles

i would remove that bolt http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/5011/p1050867x.jpg

that caliper should not be solid!!! it is on slides it has to be with it been a single pot it could be seized up on the pins!! if it was bolted solid only one side of the brake would act on the disc (piston side) as thats the only place it would move