Stu

So your advice is irrelevant then seen as though to OP doesn't do it day in day out And don't be too sure about not cracking the sump I've been there and done it and seen it done and others have on here have also done it!

see my reply above about seals

and it made no difference? might be time for an overhaul then replace with braided hoses if your not thinking of it already if the calipers arent leaking fluid you should get away with stripping the calipers and cleaning them up and using the seals already in there, the dust seals (outer ones) take all the brunt so check these out if you can afford to have the bike off the road for a week or two strip the calipers and check them out before ordering parts and remember to use DOT4 brake fluid not any other look for some sintered pads carbone lorraine SBK3's are good

Really! Just wait till you crack that alloy sump that's all part of the crank case and it will cost you about a grand to sort! Item 2 is no good on its own as It's used for degree tightening and to be used after a torque wrench you will be hard pushed to find bolts that need tightening like that on a bike 1 and 2 work really well item one been the best spend money on a decent one though

When was the fluid last changed? If you don't know then the first thing I would do is replace it as your supposed to every two years Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it will absorb moisture from the atmosphere

Top of suspension can mean anything there's loads of components that make up the suspension so as above post some pics

Why not put them in the gallery?

Looking good 1 and 4 will be a little cooler then 2 and 3 but you shouldn't be able to tell that easily to be honest! Did you check the float hight? Make sure fuel is getting to the carbs

happy birthday

i have sprayed engine casings before ideally you need an etch primer as the casing is likely to be alloy it is pretty easy to do body work however is a different story

ive used the halfords one loads of times you have to prep the surface properly first and follow the instructions too ive never had a problem with it although by the end of the year it could have been done with been painted again but keeps the worst away

first of all post in the right section moved to pitstop remove them clean them up with a wire brush and paint them with exhaust paint available from halfords

just thought i would bump this seen as though winter is on top of us

Yes that's the one Some are covered in what looks like tin foil so check both ends to make sure its all out

2.5 meters for £2.50 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HT-High-Tensi ... 0865683382

Also look on ebay for the leads you will only need about a meter and half max

yeah sounds like its been used as a gasket!

im out mate i cant get a swap!! everyone hates sundays!!!

is this a review of a bike you have owned ratser? if so it wants its own thread as it will just get lost in all the drivel also if you got it in 2008 its not a 2010 model like the thread title

you talking the very end? as in about half an inch to an inch? if so it might be part of your gasket you may need a new one

moved to pitstop!! it could be a number of things without taking the engine apart and having a look your not going to know first things i would do is remove plugs remove cam cover and turn it over by hand to see if you can see anything a miss on the top end if a ring has snapped chances are it will have scored the bore and will need a re bore and hone or maybe a sleeve inserting

Happy birthday Alex

i have been trying to get a swap but its a no go for me

not used it but its good stuff instructions here for tech wash and then you use TX.direct hope that helps

coils can be had for £45 http://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/pr ... tion-Coils you could prbably get the lot for less then £60 a set still £120 notes though