Mr Fro

Having a Johnny Cash phase... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Gbtm-93oqE&list=RD_Gbtm-93oqE Now seriously considering changing my son's name.

Sounds duff to me. You can probably pack out the 12 until you get another 14.

Same here but wife won't wear it. My mother's family moved out there in the 60's - took all their stuff and steamed over there. They were there about 3 weeks before packing up and coming back!

Well [mention]RantMachine[/mention] is doing it. Don't know how long it will take him to learn the lingo - they don't speak much English where he's going.

Erm... yeah... You only really need pics 7&8 - you can remove the rest if you like. What did you actually think of the thing?

Don't give up on it yet! If it's only taped then you can persuade it on with a rubber or wooden mallet. If you can get a WD40 straw in there then that'll help it off.

Hello. It's difficult to hear it (but I'm a bit mutton). You can use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope(ish) - tip end on the engine and t'other on your ear to narrow down where it's coming from. Bike engines do tend to make a bit more noise than car engines so don't be too alarmed. If it's done 25k miles and hasn't had them done already, it might just be that your tappets need a bit of adjustment.

I've never glued grips on - I just wind insulating tape round the bars until they're a tight fit.

Alwite Squibb. If you know what date and time you'll be picking it up then you can arrange your insurance policy to start then. Theoretically, you should be able to tax it once the insurance has started so if you've got internet access you can do it on your phone and you can merrily ride home or wherever. Do yourself a favour and get the seller to write a receipt - nothing fancy, just something with both your names, date, time and sale amount.

72 to 88 is a big jump for a 50cc - I only do steps of 10 when tuning superbikes! I would look at jets in between those before thinking about the CDI.

X-ring, O-ring... Pretty much the same. In theory the X-ring should keep the grease in the links and grime out better than an O-ring but otherwise they're the same. So long as you get the right chain width/length you'll be fine. Steel sprockets will last longer than aluminium, especially if you're doing high mileage. Aluminium sprockets are lighter so aimed at performance minded people and to be honest, the on-road difference between the two is negligible. Even on track you'd be hard pushed to tell the difference. If it were me in your commuting shoes I'd pick the cheaper (prob O-ring) chain and steel sprocket and keep on top of lubing it to get maximum life.

Stick the standard jet in if you can. High speed bogging is a symptom of too big of a main jet.

Is 72 the standard size jet and do you have a rev counter?

I found the same thing with my one. I had to have the screen on max to see it which didn't help. I bought a 5A converter box and some USB sockets which I might get round to fitting one day...

Very good.

Nah, I'd race it.

Dude. I have a very good school friend who is boss of tunnels (or something like that). He doesn't know one end of a hammer from his penis so don't get your hopes up. If I had the choice I'd be driven by the proximity of quality curry, so unless I was moving within a reasonable distance of Southall, it would have to be Brum.

Yeah its shit 'Cos all the bikes get nicked.

Looks good! It's crying out for an under seat exhaust though.

Usually carb kits have a few main jets, a new needle and maybe a slow jet/screw. I've fart-arsed around tuning mine and with dyno time found that even with exhaust, induction and engine mods, the original carb settings were best. I probably spend 2-3 hunge plus loads of time finding that out too. If you can whack open the throttle from say 3k rpm to red line in 3rd gear without any bogging or flat spots then you've got it about right. Carb fiddling is pretty easy and if you're going to do it just change one thing at a time!

I like your idea - it would work if you figured the slider part out. Maybe a couple of bits of steel C-section either side of the trucks (cheap version) or some linear bearings (not so cheap). I reckon it's worth a go anyway. Tankbag is right about the pallets - they're only worth 50p used and if you've got the time and patients to separate them up they can be a good source of cheap wood.

I test them at an angle and I nipped the floats down a couple of mm. The floats are floaty... I dunno but we shall see.

Thanks Bud. This is mainly driven by stupidity. Yarp. It's variable pressure so I can fiddle it. Oddly, OEM pressure is 3psi and it leaked with 2psi... But only on the bike. I'll take a look at it later in the week with any luck.

I decided that using the fuel tank outlets for flow and return from the pump/regulator and therefore not having a reserve was pants. I want be able to use the reserve line as a reserve so added a dedicated regulator return line to the tank. First off I drilled a hole in the tank: Then I bent a bit of stainless pipe to exit the fuel somewhere near the filler point and machined down a pressure fitting to fit said pipe and accept the fuel hose: Unfortunately, when I came to weld the two together the fitting that I thought was stainless steel fizzed, popped and melted so I had to remake it. Plan B was to weld an M12 nut to the pipe and weld that assembly to the tank, then tap a thread on the fitting and use a hydraulic seal to stop it leaking. Because I'd only emptied the tank in the morning I had to leave it out in the sun for a bit then purge it with Argon before and during welding to prevent explosions. I also had the carbs off and reset the float height. For some reason I can't quite fathom, everything is hunky-dorey when I test it on the bench but when I assemble it all on the bike the carbs start leaking. If I ever do something like this again I'm going to use all new parts. I've wasted so much time chasing round fixing old stuff on this thing.

Looks good. The frame looks in good nick. Have you figured out what you're going to do about lights?