Mr Fro

Erm... mine came from Halfords. I've still got the one I bought in 2004 - fair enough it's made up of a high percentage of gaffa tape now but it kept the shit off the bike before I got a garage.

I thought you did it.

Some shims are marked - some aren't! A set of vernier or micrometers are handy for checking them either way as they're not always exactly the thickness they should be.

Yeah, assuming 5A will probably give you a reasonable safety margin. You won't really know the draw until you get a unit and measure it.

Sorry, I thought you were on a wind up! From your original figures, the efficiency would be 100% (obvs). Wind back a couple of pages to the equation Joeman and JRH gave and stick eta in there, rearrange and insert the actual input/output values. That will allow you to calculate the efficiency of the unit. You can then account for the characteristics of the components pre and post the unit and calculate the absolute current draw. This value will only be applicable for a specific environment so if you change temperature for example, the calculated value will change a bit. I reckon it'll be between 4 and 5 though. You like 5 so we'll go with that.

If you stomp all over someone else with your "knowledge" but then ask a very noddy question that should easily be within the scope of your apparent qualifications then you should expect a bit of a ribbing old son. Oh, and I do know this stuff because I've just done it at uni - did quite well in fact: I can dig out my A-level certs too if that'd make you feel better.

In all fairness, I don't think he said he passed the exam. What did you get [mention]Baloo[/mention]? I got a "B".

Bollocks Beefy, this is year 1 stuff!

I thought you had an A-level in physics. This site might be helpful.

So get on it then boi!

You don't need a brake light chum. See what I did there? Decreased your electric shiz by 50% in the blink of an eye.

It's a great way to bleed the system but you can't tug the syringe too hard of air can bypass the master cylinder seal which knackers the whole lot. Gently bentley does the trick.

Is that DOT 5.1?

Sounds good matey. You seem to suffer a lot with your brakes - can you upgrade the fluid to give you a bit more time before fade kicks is?

Help how? Advice or do it for you?

Jesus Christ man. Grow some balls! Wife asked me yesterday to put up a blind and fill some holes in some walls. Did I do it? We'll, yes actually but I went straight to the garage afterwards and hit things with a hammer until I was told to come back inside. That my friend is how it's done.

If you want to do it then crack on. Who cares if others [strikeout]do a Rantmanchine[/strikeout] throw their toys out.

What? Wait... Where did this guy come from? He's making us look like a right bunch of wallies - he's done far to much stuff way too quickly and I don't like it. Stu - I recommend an instant ban. Welcome to the forum Winston.

I'm taking it today. Fitted a new rad to the ZXR. All nicely connected up so I filled the rad with coolant - lovely stuff, no leaks. I then filled the expansion bottle and dawdled to the other side of the garage to do *things*. A little while later I heard a ssssschleeeerrrp noise, looked over to the bike and the expansion bottle was empty. Yep, I'd connected the overflow to the rad and the feed was dangling loose with coolant all over the floor.

I use a bit if dribble.

Harwich obviously. In Essex.

I put one on the ZXR earlier in the year. It whizzes the engine over very nicely although it looks incredibly cheap and tacky.

I think you're jumping to the "it's knackered" conclusion too quickly. Look at what happened: Started losing power. Cut out. Won't turn over. Will fire with a bump start. First thing I would check is the battery and charging system. Less than £10 for a multi-meter vs probable significant loss for spares sale...

Bloody hell, this lot are in bit of a mood today aren't they! OP - don't get concerned about melted engines yet. You're doing the right thing by checking stuff out. Have you had the multi-meter on it yet?