Mr Fro

You might be able to fit a stubby/GP style one on there without fouling. Why don't you like it? Too long?

Just if you happen to come across it - would be interesting to see. If you measure the electrolyte/voltage of two different systems then different results should be expected. A dynamo outputs DC - alternator outputs AC which is converted to DC via the reg-rec. How is one DC preferable to another DC? If we're talking charge state after x period of time then the differentiating factor is charge rate, surely.

I made a custom system for my turbo project... You can get a generic 4-1 collector for ~£50 and a bunch of bends ~£10 each and weld it if you have the gear. You can get clamp parts but they're more unwieldy.. I would charge £150ish to fabricate a bespoke link so expect that sort of area. The easiest thing would be to cut the pipe and clamp the new silencer straight to it like Goody says. Pipe reducers are available if the new is different from the old.

@[mention]Mississippi Bullfrog[/mention] - I'd like to have a shufti if you could dig that out at some point. The system will (should) just plonk charge in to a battery until it reaches an equilibrium point. My understanding is that alternators are favoured as they are more efficient/reliable than a dynamo. Alternators replacing only what is used during the starting procedure would require them to "know" the state of charge of the battery prior to starting. It may be that a quality charger will recover more charge in a flat battery mind you (remember when you had to keep an eye on them and switch them off when the battery started to boil ). @[mention]pitintheuk[/mention] - sorry for the hijack!

Have you got any reference for that statement?

Many happy returns Stu. Have a great day!

I hope they can hypno my hangover.

I have half a mind to contact the Daily Mail over this controversy.

There's always one isn't there. If you'd bothered to read my post you would have seen I mentioned irrelevant football chitter-chatter, no other. Honestly, we need a firm hand on the tiller at these troubling times.

Now with added airbox/plenum thingy: The black bit at the back if the MAP sensor so the spark advance is adjusted with reference to the boost pressure. I struggled to get time to TIG it up at school so I got some aluminium brazing/soldering rods: HTS2000. This was a mistake. They're good for joining a couple of thinish bits together but complex parts and thick to thin is a pain in the arse. It would have looked better if I'd MIGed it. Anyway, I had to go over it a few times to get rid of the pin holes but it's done so in theory I just need to source a dump valve and an intercooler then make up the pipe work and it's done. Still need that smaller rad too...

Dear mods, If you were to make me a moderator, I would be firm on all this irrelevant chitter-chatter about footballists that encroaches on the grown-up's threads. If people want to see others acting like fools with silly haircuts then they should go down to the local college hairdressing department. Lots of love, Fro. x

Why would you do that?

It's because superchargers are soooo 2016. Turbos are where it's at nowadays.

He was a bit odd he Bob. The @ thing is temperamental on my phone. If I type "@username." then delete the full stop, a drop-down box appears and I can select the user. There's probably better ways but it works for me!

Does your neutral light work? I spent several hours scratching my head when mine failed to turn over once I modified it. I finally realised I'd missed the neutral switch wire - connected it up and it was golden.

Anyway... back to reality for a mo... [mention]Tango[/mention] - sorry you're giving up your cape and sceptre. I'm assuming as a mod you have to read all our ramblings so thanks and sorry for all that!

You know what... that's actually a pretty good idea. It wouldn't take much to do either - a secondary master cylinder piggybacked on the rear brake line with a spring to depress it and a latch to hold it open when riding. I guess issues would be if the latch gave while riding (could be exciting) and that a crim would just chop the brake line to disable it. Might be better if you could rig something to hold the bike in gear...

I'd give caustic a go then try and get the baffle out. I can't remember how the baffle fixes in but could you knock it out from the other end? Pretty sure the silencer comes off the down pipe. If it's only 3" snapped off the baffle then it would be reasonably easy to get an arc rod down there and weld the broken bit back on then hoik the whole lot out.

Caustic soda us how we used to do it in the olden days. What's wrong with the baffle? Might be fixable...

I'm not with the rider on this one. I doubt the pan impacted at 140mph+, that would require the rider doing that speed 1/4 of the way along the back straight and the pan being stationary but that's nit picking. If we had to go through scruitneering at a track day then the days would be massively expensive with fewer riders or you'd only get about 3 sessions after all the bikes had been done. The pan could easily have failed due to fatigue caused during that session alone - the stresses placed on components at a brisk track pace are massive so unless the zx10 owner was obviously negligent by leaving a load of screws out then I don't think they can reasonably be held accountable. Ultimately, the knocked out rider knew the risks associated with track riding and agreed to the terms and conditions like we all do. Riders do get flagged if they ride like a nob or if there is an obvious fault with their bike. It's just one of those things such as failing body work, popped tyres or an engine crapping oil over the track that we accept is a possibility when we do a track day. Would the rider have made such a fuss if someone had tried to stick it up the inside at Brundle and had him off? What happened was unfortunate but did not warrant the diatribe that the injured rider dispensed.

Sounds like a bit of a whinger to me.

Zx6r 36/42. ZXR750 32/36... The six is waaay lighter and has a bit more power so that really doesn't make sense. I would have thought the figures in the book are for the OE spec tyres. If you get your hands on some loose tyres you'll see and feel the construction varies tremendously - compare the PR4 to a supercorsa for example, the PR4 has walls like a tank whereas the supercorsa are really thin and flexible.

Have you checked model fitments a few years either side of your bike? You might have a crossover year or something. Otherwise, have you got a bearing place local to you? The best thing would be to take the parts along to a bearing supplier to get the fit right. Failing that, good measurements of the old one will allow you to order them on-line. Bearings direct in Norwich are pretty good.

Thought you said they were on a bicycle...

Yet again this forum has risen to the challenge of solving the world's problems. Very nice idea... You should probably patent that one.