Mr Fro

Yep, as everyone has already said... Before you do the Fozz head bearing thing, check the wheel bearings by grabbing top/bottom and front/back of the wheel and check for play - give it a spin too of you can and listen for grumbling. Sorry you're having trouble again mate.

Bob called it! It's just another brake light switch. If the connectors have come off, just pop them back on - don't think it makes any odds which way round. If the wires are broken then reconnect/solder them up.

A picture would be handy if you can grab a snap of the offending item.

Does it have a cable? Looks hydraulic.

That's so crazy it might just work.

No, you are definitely missing something obvious. One should use "fewer" when dealing with discrete variables, i.e. something that may be counted. Aside from advanced grammar - I read your posts with great interest Trekkie-wekki. You didn't say you went to a large motor factor to get your pipe, I can't believe you fell for the old "ethanol proof pipe" jape. Next thing you know they'll be offering you tartan paint, left handed spanners and a reacharound. How old is your BMW? Not made for leaded was it? That'd certainly explain why you lost the seats. It's true what you say, you can't teach an old dog new tricks any more than you can convince a Daily Mail reader of a fact by showing them empirical data. I look forward to reading your next post, I'll be keeping an eye out for it.

You tried on a lid in a shop and ordered one? Where from?

So you're the nob causing all the traffic jams then.

Easy now Trekkie - I know you've got a soft spot for me and I'm flattered that you should feel that way but my bread just isn't buttered that side. I'd prefer it if we could just stay friends. Replacing your lines is a prudent move but as Joeman says; if you don't pay for quality, you can't expect these things to last long. I'm also confused about your O-rings, you've said previously that "nasty fuel" dries, embrittles, shrinks and makes your rubber items crack. Now you state that your rubber items are swelling. A contradiction, surely. I currently run a 9 years old bike that is completely standard, haven't changed a single thing apart from filters - no sign of iffy hoses. My track bike is 20 years old - I had the carbs off again just a week ago and they were lovely and clean - no oxidation - all needles, shims, tubes, floats, seals and jets in tip-top condition. I can only suggest "user error" on your behalf - you're not using some sort of additive are you? Oh, and that should be fewer mpg. Did you do a proper comparison to make such a claim or just guess it?

Have you got a pic of it and the general location of it? Someone might have a *genius* idea that doesn't involve fire.

That's a plan of sorts... Last chance is give it a bit of heat or get a dremel/hacksaw on it.

... Or weld a new nut on top of the old one...

They are essentially the same thing. You've got quite a few wires in there so I'm assuming the more simple rose is slaved off that one. Disclaimer: I'm not a sparky but I have re-wired a few houses, none of which have burst in to flames (as far as I know).

You're not getting happy with the welder again are you Phil? You could weld it but you'd need to get it heat treated to restore it's strength (not cheap). Plus you risk warpage during treatment. A lowering kit is a much more straightforward option and yes, you'll probably need to raise the forks a bit.

But my gran said "A little bit of what you fancy does you good". I go by that. I had lots of bits of what I fancied until I got married.

Dead easy to make. If you've got a lathe! I've not tried anything else in there but I guess it's proprietary. I reckon there'll be plenty kicking about on ebay/similar as you only need one bayonet thing for all your valves (I'll probably end up with 3 or 4). Either that or get one from Stahlbus.

Yes they do at £15 a go. I've got 5 per bike!

And one for the fuel tank - MotoGP style. I'm all about saving time at the pumps.

After passing it’s MOT, I decided to give the ZX6r a little treat by way of a service. I’d bought a couple of these Stahlbus valves direct from Germany a few weeks back for ~£30 each (cheaper than the UK!). The valve is a direct replacement for the OEM drain plug comprising three components. There’s the valved part that sits in place of the OEM plug and a bayonet component that fits in to the main body and releases the valve to allow waste oil to flow through. The third part is the screw on cap that provides a secondary seal in case of valve failure. It also makes the valve track friendly.  http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/IMAG0233.jpg The valve is very pleasingly made out of lightweight alloy and has two distinct advantages over the standard drain plugs. Firstly, you don’t risk getting your hands covered in oil or splashing dirty oil over the floor and secondly, if your plug/sump is a bit jiffy – you can permanently fix this in and not have to worry about unscrewing it again. The valve is slightly longer than the OEM plug when the cap is fitted. http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/IMAG0237.jpg Simply drain the oil and fit the new valve: http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/IMAG0239.jpg To use the valve you unscrew the cap and pop in the bayonet component: http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/IMAG0240.jpg The oil will only flow once the bayonet is fully home and stops immediately the bayonet starts to disengage from the valve. I “deliberately” overfilled the sump so have tested the valve fully. There’s a really nice positive feel as the bayonet locates and no excess flow once it’s disengaged. The complete valve does sit a little proud of the fairing on my bike but it’s only slight. I’m not concerned about the protrusion as the fairing bolts sit lower and have no grounding marks. http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/IMAG0242.jpg I’m quite impressed by this unit. The down sides are that the flow rate through the valve is lower meaning it’ll take longer for the oil to drain and there’s no option to have it magnetised to pick up bit of metal from the sump – minor things really considering it’s easy to stick a neodymium magnet to the outside of the sump. The biggest bonus by far is that there’s no longer a need to remove any fairing to do an oil change which easily makes up for the longer drain time.  I will be fitting the other to the ZXR750 later this week and to Mrs Fro’s Lotus when that comes round for it’s service.

What year/variant is it?

Interesting how you've managed to turn the OP's question in to a statement to suit your purpose. Funnily enough, having owned a number of classic and vintage vehicles, I have never suffered the perils of "nasty ethanol". I'm sure that you're aware that rubber/rubberised parts perish with age, mild steel rusts with time, etc, etc so it's all too possible that some may mistakenly attribute the ageing process to something other than an item's frailty. I naturally base my opinion on fact, not anecdotal evidence. I (a scientist) conducted a scientific experiment in laboratory conditions using a number of variables and controls. I used instrumentation with accuracy +/-1 nanolitre and +/-10 microgram so have more confidence in my results than something some bloke (probably bearded and drinking real ale) down the pub reckoned happens. I'm happy to address your previous observation as to why "It [petrol] doesn't even smell like petrol". It's the same reason why bacon doesn't taste like bacon and tomatoes don't taste like tomatoes these days although cannot be associated with the inability to leave one's backdoor open at night without fear of opportunistic burglary. Sadly, this is the age related degeneration of your olfactory system. I can link you a number of peer-reviewed scientific journals and papers to cover this but fear it would be a waste of my time as one tends not to see much in the way of scaremongering in these publications. Also, irony is to use words to express something other than their literal intention. I find none in this thread.

Lost 1/2hp over 20 years - not too shabby.

Are they? Mine isn't. Mine gets louder and quieter over time - probably where it's a little out but not enough to catch the next ratchet. Some people say manual is the way to go but that's arse ache having to nip it up now and then and it's not difficult to over tighten them.

After a promising start on the dyno, the ZXR750 failed the MOT on the fork seals. I didn't check them as I changed them last year. I had a look and fluid was pissing down the forks but at least it missed the pads. Oh well, new ones on order (not pattern shit this time). The forks are already off and I might as well do the main jets while it's in the air.

Took the ZX6r for it's MOT which it passed no issues. Whizzed the ZXR750 down for a dyno run and got a respectable 105bhp at the wheel - bit of a flat spot on the way up but nothing upping the main jets won't fix. Then it had it's MOT - see the "f**k it" thread.