rice-pudding

So just go up size by size and hope for the best?

Think I'm going to have tap new holes on my header and 3 bolts sheared off. I think the original bolts are m8 can I re-tap the hole to m8 or will I have to go up a size ?

Thanks man. Yeah no leaks so I'll chance it just now, it's all coming in the future anyway so I'll repair it then

Just noticed that I have 1 snapped header bolt, looks quite flush with the head, dont know when or how long it's been like that. Is it still good to run or should I fix it ASAP? Everything still looks in place and there's no leaks coming from it.

Killswitch? Simple but it happens!

My bad :-/

This happened to me on a YBR, we poured fuel down the plug hole and rugged it like F#%K with the kick starter and eventually it started. A bit rough and ready but it worked. Might not be your solution though, what and see what others say!

I'd rather spend the couple of extra squid and buy steel ones, saves time and money in the long run. I have nice yellow ones on, designed for HGV's. No more crap gets in there

I think these cheap caps are aluminium and they react with the brass values and "weld" together. Don't buy crap! I did once and had to get brand new valves fitted on my car tyres

Might be a silly question, but if I'm removing the forks how am I going to get the front end up?

Am I correct in saying that Robinsons Foundry sell genuine parts?

Yeah conventional forks. Is there special tools I need, I have a rather large array of tools collected over the years. I priced it up today from Robinsons Foundry £30 for seals and dust caps and £15 for oil. It's a no brainer, beats £180 from the garage

Changing the fork seals, the time has come and it must be done as it's affecting the handling now as one fork is full and the other is near empty. I'm fairly mechanically minded and have worked on all my cars, but I'm still quite new to bikes. I thought 2 minds are better than 1 and was going to ask my dad to help. He has the knowledge and I have the practical abilities. Even if it takes a whole day I'd rather do it than fork (no pun intended) out the £180 quoted by the garage! Buy a Haynes Bible and try it, or 'fork' out the cash ?

I'd say graphite powder is your best bet! WD40 and other wet lubes are good for a while but end up making it worse in the long run.

WD-40 make a good chain cleaner now, that and a "gear gremlin' chain brush make easy work of a grubby chain http://www.wd40specialistmotorbike.co.u ... n-cleaner/

Will I need to replace the oil too? If so can anyone recommend a good fork oil?

Here's a snap shot of the culprit (after I cleaned the bugger) http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd448/jojo-clyro/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0148.jpg http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd448/jojo-clyro/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0147.jpg

Yeah it's drips slightly on the outside of the calliper but mainly misses everything else, the puddle on the shed floor is my evidence. I'm pi**ed off though because it's still under warranty but the waiting list is 3 weeks at the dealer

Long story short, my fork seal is bust and has a moderate leak. I have a trip planned for Saturday, maybe 400 miles plus. You think I'll be okay with it or give the trip a miss ?

How about using chain cleaner to remove fling from back wheel ?

Took me half an hour of pulling the silencer before I realised the centre stand was what was blocking the way ! Knocked it on to side stand and hey presto it came off. Doh!

Got it sorted now

So, my exhaust came today and like a child on Christmas morning I went to go fit it....in a hail storm, excellent. I snapped the original clamp bolt that holds the exhausts together, which I think is a easy fix, just get a new clamp....but the original clamp seems to be welded on with a shiny chrome cover, what's the best way to remove it as it's of no use now. Also, the gasket seems to be sticking about half way out, does it need to fully inside the pipe? Obviously when I started the bike it's blown as the clamp non existent. Any tips appreciated! Thanks Disgruntled cold not so happy biker.

Hey a Haynes manual is a Haynes manual!

I'll try and get a video up soon, see if that helps, it's not a loud rattle. I'm still under warranty so maybe worth popping in past the dealer