Fozzie

I know right! I've always had a soft spot for the 2004-2006 R6 before they made it all pointy! What's with the blow up dinosaur?

I love this thread Looking forward to more updates

He wasn't flying this was he? http://img.lum.dolimg.com/v1/images/Millennium-Falcon_018ea796.jpeg?region=0%2C1%2C1536%2C864&width=768 Was this writer making Kessel runs in 12 parsecs?

That worm drive is a bugger that has caused my clutch to be funny like Glorians, need to get another Suzie owner in the know about their fiddly ways!

Adjust the clutch at the bottom to take the slack out of the cable, and adjust the top to position where it bites, keep going back and forth as needed. Typically have it so the clutch doesn't start to bite until the lever is at least a third of the way out. This gives you movement either end to ensure the clutch isn't sticking. If you need help, whack some pictures up or PM me with pics and I'll try and help as much as possible as I've adjusted more clutches than I've tied shoelaces.

Always worth a shot They didn't tell me the difference, but the guy said it's cheaper with the offer. On trade I saw it say 70-something on the till. So you'll get it for less now:thumb: Couple of companies I worked for used this cheeky tactic, usually when they break even the bigger offers start, as any remaining units are sold entirely at profit, so they do these weekend deals to get more people into the store. Will probably keep a sharp eye out for any more of these halfords offers that "beat the trade card" and post them as I find them. Another one that does some good offers is Machine Mart, they sometimes even have "VAT free days" which just means 20% off, but I got my last torque wrench from there, it was on offer already on the VAT free day and I basically got it for £20, and it was part of their professional range. We need a "bargain bin" thread. Save peeps money, and have shiney stuff

Was waiting for that very question! They will scan the card and check for you to see if it gets a better price. If they find the trade card can't match the offer price of the tools/parts you are trying to buy. They will put those items through separately for you. I asked and they were fine with it, they could perfectly understand why so providing you aren't dealing with an angry arse you should be ok. Hope that clears that up, trade card users For this tool set, the trade card got close, but couldn't match the offer price. May seem odd to drop it below trade prices, but if they've had a good run in profits and made their money for the batch. They will just sell the rest off very cheap to attract customers. And I like this

No, no, no, that's an Essex accent. It's "Sudaaamtun", or just, "S'aaamtun". You've got to get the long "a" in there. It's actually no worse than other port cities! Their football team won me £40 today. Which makes me NOTD in my office. 6 weeks of football predictions with the jackpot being £10 each to the loser, and I never really watch football. I join in 2 weeks late, and say I bet I can win as by not having loyalties in football, I believe I have an advantage. 4 weeks later I took the win by 2 points when Liverpool drew with Arsenal. I'm £40 up, and the office boys have been making jibes all day how I get paid holiday, while them being contractors just lost money and don't have paid holiday ... I'm not even sorry

Glad some have bought them, really a good deal! If you don't need the tools, or already have them... Maybe this thread wasn't for you I don't have long reach sockets, or impact sockets, and my array of screwdriver bits are badly damaged. So finding that little gem at £60 rather than spending £30-£40 for quality items separately, I now have a tool kit that when I work on a bike, I open one kit up as opposed to fumbling around with other sets and then struggling to put things all back in the right place again when I'm done and I have tools all over the floor Pro series stuff is a good quality, I am a Teng Tool man usually, I have had a lot of their stuff, and I can't tell much of a difference between the two other than the Teng socket wrenches have a bit of a smoother click, although the spacings seem about the same.

I can't wait to see updates on this, I love those old Aprilias!

I'd still have it for £80, it spends most of the time at £120-£160!

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/garage ... socket-set Only £60 bloody quid, even the trade card doesn't get it for that. It's usually £160, but the lowest I've seen it drop is £90 during big deals. If you want a great deal and a great tool set, lower cost really does get you a lot here Last minute Chrimbo present to yourself! Probably not on for long! Just thought peeps should know!

I'm not being a spelling police when I say this, but that is the best way of spelling exaggerated I've ever seen, given it's one of those words I wish was spelt easier This chatter noise you hear is one I've heard from a lot of 4X4 hire cars in the states where they keep them in multi-storeys. I'm wondering if it's just rubber on a crap concrete surface but I'd check the tracking still. Unlucky with this motor, usually Volvos do well!

Seems to have partly resolved! I had the clutch apart this evening, took me less than a couple of hours to get the bike drained of oil clutch disassembled, checked and then put together. The strainer was partially blocked but cleaned, and it wasn't metal shards, just some carbon deposits in the oil had been deposited there. Clutch plates look like they've fairly had it, and the bearings feel ok but I'm suspect of them. Put it all back together with some fresh oil. Noise came back with a slight twang, it was different, less scrapey and more like an irregular knock or dinging noise. So I jumped on the bike and gave it a work out, hopping on and off the clutch to get heat through it and new oil on it. This seemed to eradicate the noise, which I think were from the clutch plates. Time will tell if it comes back. Slight smoke out the exhaust, it's drinking oil. If the bike doesn't redevelop this noise, I'm just going to do the steering and wheel bearings, tidy it up and get it part exd for a CBR125 or something.

After riding the CBF, the big fear with dual carriageways presented itself to me... Usually when I ride it, I feel like it's a small toy, so I generally do monkey around on it, and its a hoot to ride until you get on a dual carriageway where the soft springs from the 70s make it feel you have no grip, and every car that goes by has a wake of air that is devastating to your desire to go in a straight line It's actually worrying at speed! So it's not a fear specific to her, it's a limitation of the bike that would scare most newer riders! CBR125's have 2.5BHP more, tiny yes, but 25% more than the CBF! And as 125's live above 6000rpm most of their lives, the CBF's low end doesn't even get it off the line quicker. Plus the CBR is better sprung and much more stable at speed I had an old CBR125 which would leave 11BHP bikes like the CBF behind at a jogging pace in each gear. So it seems a sensible option When the bikes warm, it doesn't do it with the clutch held in, but let it out, it starts and carries on until you pull the clutch again. It is all the usual suspects, and I'm trying to avoid depriving moo of a bike for a few days or more while I work through them Hmmmmm

For the clutch going, that's fairly expected, the clutch in a 125 is a tiny little budget item. The top end drinking oil though is something that has peeved me a little bit. I would expect 20-30k miles out of a 125 4-stroke before the really big work began like top end refurbs, so for it to go right at the start of that window... Bah! Cheers for the link! Temptation is to get it good so no rattles or wobbles, then upgrade it to a CBR125.

Km's or miles? And how many 125s ever make it that far Lifespan to me is the length of time a bike goes reliably without needing big work! Brake pads, chain and sprockets, tyres, etc are all ok. Eating clutches and potentially worse is bad news, especially as this CBF is drinking oil and it has no leak Itso facto, the bikes now in need of some hardcore love!

Christmas tinsel, colourful led lights, and biscuits are likely also involved... I'd have the engine out and look... But she needs it daily, and while I could get the engine out in less than an hour with some research of the Haynes, the concern is I find a bigger mess than I was expecting and I won't then have the heart to put it back together still broken. Spose I can "have a look" this weekend and if I start to go "no no nooooo, oh god no" then I should just put it back together and buy a new engine.

Bikermoos CBF is coming closer to the end of its life. Done nearly 20,000 miles which for a little 125 and mostly city miles, is good going. I'm debating whether I fix it, or just use the chance to change bikes. First of all was a hilarious weave its developed, swaying side to side down the road, wheel alignment is fine, wheel bearings not so. Easy to replace. But there's an odd noise, deffo not big end bearing making a "clack clack clack" noise. When the bike is warm, there is a horrible scraping noise. It seemed to be to be brought on by the clutch being engaged. It sounds like a clutch plate is getting warm, and losing its material and making a horrible noise. It's a rapid, drag your nails down the blackboard noise, so obviously something is warped and as it's spinning it's catching. I'm looking at the clutch area with suspect eyes as the mileage is more than enough to wipe out a 125's clutch, especially with city miles. I namely think it's the plates, possibly the clutch material has come off one of the plates and when it warms up and expands it warps and starts catching on a friction plate. I'm only going to find out by cracking it open but wondered if anyone had this before and therefore any clues... Top info for diagnosis: 1. It only does it when warm 2. Seems to start when messing with the clutch 3. Scraping, metal on metal noise I'm going to trade out the clutch plates, but I'm wondering if people have any ideas before I do.

http://my.carid.com/sites/default/files/admin_post/skeleton-in-the-car.jpg One marginal f**k it for me, trying to wind down for the year... Then a challenger appears. A cable schedule for the entire process side of an oil/gas refinery is wanted before I leave for the year. Usually takes, 2-3 weeks... Time I have: 4 days

It was completely the van driver's fault for not giving way to you ... BUT ... IMHO, stationary traffic + vehicle waiting to emerge from a minor road + vehicle on major road making space for waiting vehicle = *** DON'T *** filter past until the emerging vehicle has completed their manoeuvre. This, as I know someone who lately had a bash in the same circumstances. It's lucky filtering is a grey area, as the van drive should see you, especially as you saw him, even to the point you were able to take evasive action! So why didn't he see you? But overtaking at a junction is a no no as far as the highway code is concerned, so if you ever do have a bump. Never word it that you were overtaking if you were just filtering. Otherwise there will not be a 100% liability given to the driver that pulled out on you.

One big carb isn't as efficient as 2 smaller ones basically. It's a long explanation involving atomisation, the distribution of the fuel, vacuum forces, and the intake. But the best way to look at it is, on an inline 4 you have a bank of 4 carbs usually. You could easily feed 2 cylinders with a single carb. The reason they scrapped that idea many many years ago is you can achieve better performance, better running and greater efficiency by using one small carb for each cylinder to produce even, and precise fuel delivery. Same applies to a stonking big single cylinder with 2 very big valves. They just have a problem that is more downstream so have to have a carb for even fuel distribution to both valves.

Glad it's fixed! A big lesson you learn is that one problem could have a good few causes, and eliminating the things for free first is always the best course. As far as clutch engaging issues go, it's usually the lever mechanism, a bearing or the plates. You didn't go spending money so you didn't make the classic mistake a friend of mine made... Rebuilt the whole top end looking for a rattle and replaced the timing chain... Then I fixed the rattle by hitting his cam chain tensioner with a hammer unseizing it Anyway, well done Bob and Ollie, I've liked following this mystery clutch puzzle

You should have called this thread "Coming to a pitstop near you" I do like the punto, but the ones my mates had suffered with all sorts. Keep on top of servicing, and keep the electrics clean and dry, and you should be ok Welcome to 4 wheels Mr Ricky, where you quickly learn how great being warm on the commute really is.

Let's start from the top... I take it that it didn't always splutter, so this is a change for the worse. It sounds fuel related or ignition. So first port of call, check the spark plug, and air filter. If both are A-ok then put them back, if not, get new ones. If they are ok you could give the carb a clean, and make sure it is set up correctly. Just give the jets a good clean, and ensure the needle is the correct height. As you say it splutters a good portion up the rev range, so it's either the main jet, or needle jet at fault if this is carb related. I'd see what colour the plug is, if its showing it running lean, the needle needs to move up a couple of notches, and the reverse for if it is running rich. If that doesn't solve your problem it could be the main jet is blocked. Give it a good blast and then put the bike back together. If all that doesn't work and you do the cheap stuff, like spark plug, air filter, carb clean, clean the reeds, and so on then it could be expensive. It could be a packed in ignition coil that is failing at higher output, or it could be the bikes crank case seals have failed and you have reduced fuel pressure. That's about everything it could be 2-stroke related