Fozzie

My place is all electric, and I've only see an oil fired boiler once or twice if I'm honest. I heat water, it lasts a couple of days for dishes if you don't use the bath (I use the power shower). It works a treat! Costs me £50 a month for electricity all told... Although that's for a small place, so quite expensive... Especially with a gf who freezes just by seeing the word cold and insists on having the radiators on whenever the temperature dips below 30 degrees C

Dawwwww I do like cats I must say, you hear people choose either cats or dogs... I quite like both! Strange how attached we get to them!

What the f**k do you drive that chucks out over 255g/km of CO2!?!?

Sounds bearing related if messing with them fixes it! But it only happening at a certain speed is a bit odd Usually the balance is out badly when that happens.

I've fractured and broken bones in that area, it will take about 6 weeks before the bone has set, possibly longer... Probably going to be 3 months before you can hop back on a bike! Even then, the area will be weak for a few more months. Sorry if that's bad news, but I hope you get better fast!

Long explanation short, as there are bulbs, you would imagine access won't be too bad as bulbs are a consumable item! All you have to do is get the clocks loosened off so you can get to the back of them. You will likely have rubber circular grommets with 501 bulbs in them. They just pull out if you grab the grommet and maybe a gentle tug on the 2 wires going in there. Replace them out for a colour you like. On more modern bikes you have to swap out SMD's on a circuit board, so I'm hoping yours is as simple as the picture makes out. Have a tinker, it won't hurt!

She will certainly wish cows to leave a steaming pile of something on your doorstep as penance at the very least

In that case sounds like there's been a break down in respect there on her part. Time to lay the law! Not as far as an ultimatum, but a "you've got to change your attitude or we are going to have major problems". If she kicks off then it sounds fairly dead in the water. If she's been doing what she perceives to be a lot then we have a conflict in the value of what each other does and it needs resolving. I don't work with idiots luckily, while BP don't make the best value fuel in the world, their staff are professional However I did have a moment where I took a long sigh lately at one of the engineers. He did some of my work as he was in a rush to get something done, but in the process buggered it up and left a mess that would have had a backlash coming back onto me. Trick is not to give idiots a chance to piss you off by always checking them out

This really, if you're still with her. If she was an ex you wanted to vent over possibly this would have been in better taste. But I doubt she'd be happy seeing this on here, does she know your thoughts? Lack of respect I think is a growing issue today. The internet shows how awful people can be in certain places, bitter, twisted and shouting their mouths off. But I think it says a lot for regular people too, even just people with a common interest in biking here. I rarely, if ever argue with people in real life, I talk it out... I'm yet to have a fight with Bikermoo in all the time we've been together. Yet if I was asked where do I get the most grief from other people, I'd say internet message boards. So if people with a common interest in bikes can't get along, I can't imagine some people in relationships these days do much better. A bit Merely speculating why the OP might feel this was the place to vent about his lady. With the new extremes certain groups have shown we go to, it might show why we do things that to many, appear disrespectful. As the other take on the OP's post is that his lady doesn't respect him, and he's venting about it. Just to give some balance

It's good to know the young ones are learning... That's the first lesson in dealing with a seized bolt

Gotta say, I've experienced a seized rear caliper on a bandit from a 2007 model with barely any miles on it... It came apart in the end but boy what a hassle it was. Cover all the bits around the bolts with rags and give them some WD40. Let them soak for a while, and then attempt it delicately. If bolts show any sign of rounding off give up and hand it to a garage as if you're using the bike a lot it's probably not best to learn the art of removing seized bolts right now

Regarding earthing, on such a small system at 12v, the negative terminal of the battery is the ground. Earthing is all about equalising the system to the surrounding area in terms of it's electrical potential. When you get a high electrical potential in the sky, it causes lightning and earths itself... Giving a system an earth means it is always equal and can't discharge unexpectedly in a path IT determines rather than you! A 2 wire 12V system, there's no worry. If it gets more complex, put a ground in line with the negative line. I run switches to control the load I have, I try to get 20 hours from the battery across 5 or 6 uses. But I try to keep the load so that it would last to 25 hours or so. I also have a smaller sacrificial battery, a 26ah AGM battery, was only £25 and on offer so I nabbed it. I can carry it easily so I be running 2-3 amps off it for 6-8 hours at a time.

You want the black lead connected to COM You want the red lead connected to 10ADC for current, V ohm mA for voltage For voltage measure it across the component with a probe on either side. Same for resistance. For current measure it by making the multimeter a component in series. Measuring bike stuff is all DC, use the voltage stuff on the left, set it to 20. Or resistance bottom left and set it to 200k. Work in needed increments if you need more precise or less results.

I scribbled this up in 2 or 3 minutes as I'm at work but it should work http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad275/Chris-Fozzie/IMG_8473.jpg?t=1416212233 Using a 70ah battery from halfords, a leisure battery usually used for caravans. Inline fuse is usually near the positive lead so if you have a problem it will blow. It connects to a 30a connector block, then using small lengths of cable I jumper one terminal to another 2 terminals, and same for the negative bunch. This is the easiest method. Make sure you use insulation tape or heat shrink. The cables run to inline switches, each controlling a lighting rig of your choice, but I strongly suggest MR16 LED's or 1 metre of LED strips are the best (5050 SMD's are best for power consumption and light given off). This assumes you buy proper LED bulbs, or ready to go LED strips. If you buy big LED's straight from rapid you need a resistive circuit putting in there with it, and potentially a small 9v driver as a lot of 12v LED's only use 9v. If you want to go down the el-cheapo route then I can produce proper diagrams with all the maths but I'd rather not if you can spend a few quid more and buy a bulb with it already fitted

On the map if you think I live in Lymm yes, but while Lymm is my home base, I work in London 5 days a week and stay down here most of the time now for the next year or two Ricky was lucky that I was up for a week to rebuild his YZF-R top end, and give pointers for the TZR. We'd have been flying if we had more than a day to do it all! Throw up a question on pitstop if you have engine troubles.

I've found the connectors, and got 5 in the post, but my issue is angling them to make the most out of the beam angle, I can't seem to find empty fittings anywhere, I'd actually like a light that can rotate on one axis, like this: http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v2/349098387/Underwater_Light_led_lamp_underwater_led.jpg If you want a dead simple method, mount a simple system on a piece of ply wood like a mini fuse box on your wall, get a small connector block, and some 1.5mm 16 AWG cable (most places rate this size able to handle 17A-21A, it's always best to use a cable too big for the job in terms of loss reduction and future expansion of a system). And using some inline switches have a play. I can put up a basic system if you want? It assumes all the bulbs you are using are fitted with resistors, so it's more like a block cable diagram.

Just designed myself a new 12v system, hopefully I can implement it this weekend One thing is fitting lights, there seems to be no such thing as an MR16 lamp holder. It seems determined for me to hang them up via their cables rather than be actually mounted!

GU10 I said, MR16 I meant (oops)! I found all mine on Amazon - £5-10 a pop for the 4W+ wide angle types. Good stuff, we will have similar set ups! I've tried fluorescents as I thought they'd be the best, but they blew the inverter! Luckily no money lost as they were old lights from an old garage, so switching to LED's only cost like £20. If the inverter didn't overload intermittently I would keep it that way, but I'm planning on running "sectioned" lighting, for efficiency. Aim is the big 70ah battery can be used as a semi-permanent solution, with my use of the garage it should only need recharging once a month at most. If not 2. My plan is to have a smaller, very portable battery powering a portable LED lamp. Or possibly powering some lights positioned at waist height. I found with the existing set up I get a lot of shadows whilst working on the bike and I have to use my head torch instead. Would rather have something moveable and gives a good blast.

GU10 LED you say? All the GU10 LED's I find all have "220-240v input" stamped on them The best bulbs I could find were all made for that range so I thought I'd just take the 15% loss and rock it with an inverter. I am actually eliminating the inverter this week, converting the two seen in the picture to MR16 LED's. The big one I have at the middle of the garage doesn't seem to trip the inverter but it was a whopping 1500 lumens. My new system is taking on a design similar to yours... Just one question, where do you get 12v GU10 LED's from? As I came up empty handed!

I've spent several hundred quid there in the last few months I'll be putting more on it around Christmas when I have dosh to do what I like!

http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad275/Chris-Fozzie/GarageLights.jpg?t=1415603602 Had a first crack at this LED business. And I've already redesigned it, but more on that later So I have a 70ah battery, connected to a small 75w inverter with a constant run of 60w. I have 8W of lighting in that picture, about 350 lumen of light from each. It lights the desk, and much of the garage although the camera was adjusting for the light so can't really show this! I have a 18W light in the middle of the garage which is good. Only problem is, after about 20 minutes the inverter goes to overload. It starts again and often then lasts another 20 minutes but I think the use of a modified sine wave with electronics that have small transformers to change 240v to 12v is causing the inverter to flip into overload. The ballast on fluorescents was actually blowing the inverter, even a 2000w inverter could be fried by a 18w light. So I have slightly intermittent lighting. But I've developed a plan! Sat in the garage designing a new system in that funky spiderman book you see on the desk. I came up with a method to eliminate the inverter. I have E27 bulb holders, so I've bought some E27 female to MR16 female converters to support 12V LED bulbs, and have 2 12v 4W LED's in the post. These will replace the cheap LED bulbs I have in there and eliminate the inverter. I am then going to take away the 18w bulb and run a 12V 10W floodlight from the ceiling. The aim is to light the entire back half of the garage where I will be working with less losses and more lights. Finally I'm going to get one of these... http://www.lead-lighting.com/images/flood-light/portable-flood-light-10w-01.png It comes with a plug for car 12V DC sockets, so I can either run a line off the big battery, or be cheeky and take advantage of 2 small 7ah AGM batteries. They are very small, and with a line running to a socket for the light, I imagine I could get 5 hours of extra juice out of the flood lamp on top of its battery of 4-5 hours. So 10 hours per recharge. Best idea I've got, short of running a few switched spot lights off another battery.

A charge controller, I built one of those for an old college project, come to think of it I wish I could fit a solar panel on my roof but I can't get access and I bet it would be stolen Still... http://img2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20130807201645/nickfanon/images/1/17/Not-bad-meme.jpg

Perhaps a sensor has had it, or the fan switch is broken in the "on" position. It's either going to be a engine coolant temperature sensor going doo lally and telling it to switch on, or the fan switch itself is broken and it's stuck on. Defer to your Haynes manual or an electrical layout of the bike, then find what monitors the conditions around the fan area. Should only be one of a couple of things hopefully, and usually cheap if it's just a small piece of electronics.

Get a metal shop to make some? Just find the distance between the centres of the current dog bones, and maybe drop the distance by 5mm on the new ones. Should give a nice change without sharply changing geometry. The GPZ doesn't really need the change anyway!

It's gone through the paint so even pulling the dent out will leave it still looking shabby. A body shop can sort that out in no time though! An ex reversed into a pillar damaging the rear corner of the back bumper. Guy came out, pulled the dent out, resprayed it all for £150. Not bad really considering he came to me