Fozzie

To answer your question: It doesn't seem risky to someone who knows exactly where it is, and it doesn't seem risky to someone who thinks no one will ever unearth it! It's amazing how many people botch stuff up because it is easy. Sounds like you are correcting these things as you find them, thankfully it was clean AC power moving through those cables. If he'd run a DC line off a driver to a cheap pump your mrs could have been hurt! Be glad he did it the really easy way!

Something is definitely loose... But usually big end bearing knocks are more regular and consistent with the engine than that from the ones I've heard. Still could easily be the problem. I've known Hondas have clutches that go awry and make death rattles. But it sounds like the crank from that video.

Well there's some education... Buying ammo is WAY too relaxed, and don't piss you off

With a firearms licence as Stu says yeah. Just seems really fortunate he "finds" a gun that takes the same ammo, then keeps it without telling anybody. He already had a shotgun, he may as well have just handed that one into the rozzers.

Bingo Juries have to work with what they know factually. And work on the greatest likelihood. Same applies when 2 mates fall out, or a break up, or legal disputes. One or both sides will have an agenda, in this case one to get the guy locked up, and the other potentially being trying to get off without charge. Did I read he claimed to find a sawn off shotgun in a skip!?! Im a bit suspect of that, mainly as he kept it, and secondly was the first one he went for in the heat of the moment, and it was loaded, or had ammo nearby... Did he find the ammo in the skip?

He can argue he felt an attempt on his life had been made, the adrenaline kicked in, in a state of panic and remembers he has a shotgun. But in reality it sounds like he had a "time for some disproportionate retaliation" moment in the fray there. I know it says he was stabbed, but we don't know how badly he was stabbed. Clearly he was able to get a shot gun, take out one of the men, and then get arrested before being treated so it sounds like he wasn't hit with a life threatening injury. I would dare say he saw an opportunity, they are attacking him and his property, he has an excuse, and a shotgun. Putting those together in those circumstances sort of suggests to me the verdict was fair. I'm guessing that's what the court decided with all the facts laid out in front of them.

Ahhh, when it was said the clutch plates were possibly fused, then proved not to be, I thought the issue was clutch in or out makes no difference, the wheel only spins partially or not at all. If it's not disengaging at all that is a big one... Although bikes back wheels often spin slowly when off the ground and in neutral or 1st with the clutch in. That's what you should aim to have when you fix the bike, if the wheel is making more than 1 revolution per 5 seconds or so then it's an issue. If pulling the lever does nothing, I wonder if the splines on the rack and pinion are slipping. It's called something like the clutch actuator arm, the reason I keep coming back to it is an old Honda XR400 with the exact same issue had this as the cause. At first the clutch started playing up, sometimes only half disengaging and becoming a pig to ride. Then it appeared to work a bit in that it could get enough purchase to pop the clutch cover, but not enough when all tightened up to move the clutch. If it's a cheap part on ebay, replace it as par for the course. Other possible solutions I have come across but can't vouch for that I've seen suggested in similar circumstances: 1. Someone used car oil to soak the clutch plates, as I continually tell people, it's ok in many cases but not all and can have odd effects. So if the oil is a part synth motorbike oil, discount this. 2. Old bike has a worn clutch. Put it in neutral, allow the bike to warm up for a few minutes, with the bike on centre stand and you sat on it with your feet down to support the bike, slam it into 1st gear and give it a good dollop of throttle ensuring the back wheel stays off the ground and a hand hovering on the brake. If correct, the clutch could have worn unevenly and under operating conditions is seizing together. If this frees it up even a bit, try new clutch plates, and perhaps a new basket if you can source one cheap. 3. The clutch cable is mal-adjusted, an issue on many SV650's where the clutch cable drives a worm drive shaft. The cable needs the right freeplay, otherwise even though it appears to move the actuator just fine, it doesn't fully disengage. So play with the clutch cable freeplay and see if it's just a funny adjustment. That's about all I've got for now unfortunately... Without getting my hands filthy with it any way.

Hmmmm Still got a suspect eye on it, the rack and pinion being the bugger to operate the clutch. For your clutch to not engage at all would require most of the friction plates to be buggered, or sufficiently enough that the remaining ones can't transfer the engines power. So while I'd replace those anyway given the engine has done a good amount of mileage, and I believe it was slipping before hand, I've had instances where I've been very confident I've done something exactly right, then it transpires later one tiny movement caused me to bollocks something up When you twist it, is the shaft moving in exactly the same direction and position as in the vid? On an old bike I had to twist it as I installed the cover completely so that the clutch would be engaged when the clutch lever was out. Other than that, a fresh rebuild with some new plates wouldn't be a bad idea. If it was slipping before hand it sounds like either a bearing has had it, or the plates anyway. So always worthwhile swapping them out.

Compromise! You have a shotgun, You've just been stabbed in the neck, You are inside and they are ramming the house, and will knock down the front door to get you. So do both of the above, call the police asking for an armed response. Tell them you will now guard your home with said shotgun. Pull up a chair in front of the front door, aim shotgun at the door, and wait. If the police get there first, brilliant. If the armed assailants get in first, and ignore your warnings, open fire. A shot to the leg would have been more survivable though. And maybe have a warning shot before hand. Sounds like the guy shot to kill one of the times he fired so manslaughter is fitting. Psycho is a word I might not use, but they often appear nice people on the outside.

Just buy an empty junction box and fit a large copper positive and negative bus! http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/products/large/10-point-positive-distribution-block-busbar-for-vehicles-and-boats.jpg Most can take a fair amount of amperage. Failing that just jumper up some connector blocks, probably 30A stuff to cut losses and make your own distribution board!

Happy birthday

Happy Birthday mate

Yikes That 15 year old found out what trying to prove yourself can back fire and do Seems to me this guy convicted either shot the dad because he just had it in for him, or wasn't going to kill a kid but wanted to make a point. Either way... Seems a bit of an escalation. If you can't solve things with words, don't solve them at all, just walk away.

I'm trimming my system down just to see what the difference to the current draw is. Currently I have a 1.8a draw when I have 3 lines of SMD's fired up. They are individually switched so I am going to get a new bank of switches. Does anyone know a good electronics dealer on eBay? I think Joeman found one a while back! Plan is to have a bank of power blocks, leading to 2 switches, then to another set of power blocks. Each switch will supply 2 separate 1 metre reels. I should be able to eliminate a fair amount of wire and get the losses right down. Also found a powersonic sealed AGM battery (7.2ah) for about £12 on eBay so I'm going to make a small portable light as planned before. Just need to get a carry case for the battery so I can move it around and have an extendable cable to give it a 2 or 3 metre range from where I put it... Should be great to work on the bike. I did Bikermoo's chain and sprockets in about an hour today, the only thing I found lacking was the lack of lighting illuminating the harder to spot bits at the bottom of the bike. So I know the weak point of my system... I could spend £25 on one of those 3-4 hour 10w spot lamps... But I'd prefer to spend £20 and have a small 30cm long bar with 2 strips of led's with an easy to carry battery case... Just seems better when you do it yourself

That's a really good tool, thanks for the share. I'm glad LED's like the ones on the SMD strip don't dim, they have a range where they work, or don't work 9V seemed to run them fine when I tried, they just upped the current draw slightly. I'm thinking of making my own spotlight using one of these: http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-C ... #techSpecs 850lm, and 10w rated usage, warm white. Can probably rig it to a small 7ah battery and mount it to my ceiling and have a spotlight for getting the bikes out on a dark morning.

I have overlooked resistance there, given the low values protecting the SMD's anyway, I figured it wouldn't heavily impact on the figure but in conjunction with the fact the battery produces a steadier 12v rather than a 14v a lot of the wattage figures are made up from, that does explain why I'm getting a great power efficiency with it. Parallel circuit seemed best for my small setup, keeps voltage the same, current theoretically should increase linearly, but resistance of the overall circuit is less. Which is good as apparently more than 3 metres of the LED strip in series and you could have a slight issue looking at others who have done the same. They starting dimming! I did run a ring circuit for my last garage project where I ran everything from a consumer unit with an RCD and 2 MCBs. I was tempted to make a similar setup, but just opted for the basic setup. I'm buying a house in the next few years, don't need to think permanent just yet

For the starting, battery wasn't charged enough for a strong spark. Most 125s will turn over but struggle to start as the spark won't be good enough. When you bump start you take the power going out to the starter motor out of the equation, you also spin the alternator producing a little bit of juice, which helps you.

I added their rated amp usage, and added them together as they are in parallel. P=IV and I=p/v I knew the rated wattage of the strips, so worked out their draw using the formula. What I discovered was many had this same question, why when you hook up 2 or more does the amperage not increase as expected, and the best reason I could find was the strips close to the battery have a smaller current draw due to less losses, but the specifications given also assume a fully charged battery of about 14.5v. And obviously a leisure battery even when fully charged is down at 12.5, so the wattage specified is actually very wrong for our application. I'm using 2.5mm red cable, and same size for black. I've kept cable length down as much as possible, I think the longest stretch any has is about 3 metres to the centre beam in the garage. 2.5mm is overkill with less than 1amp going through them when they could happily take 30a!

1 meter of 5050 was pulling 0.85a 1 metre of 5630 was pulling 2.13a What I liked about the 5630s was they gave an intensely bright light. If you are leaving the battery in the garage and only using it for a few hours at a time they are best. If like me, you charge the battery once a month, the 5050's still give a good, evenly dispersed, lower power light. What I can't get my head around is, 1 metre is pulling 0.85a. 3 is pulling 1.8a... Tried to isolate each metre, but they are all pulling 0.7-0.9a. Not complaining... But I'm more hopeful for the 5630s. If using 3 metres is giving me the current draw of only 2. That means a 5630 system would only pull 4.25a... And 3 metres of 5630 would bring the lm level on par with the blazing fires of hell in the space I'm working in

5630 SMD's are very bright granted, there is a slight drawback in that in reality their efficiency wasn't as great as I'd hoped. 3528 have a low light output and a low power usage. So not much point other than down lighting. 5050 vs 5630 comparison test I did using 30SMDs of each. Cracked out the multimeter to check amperage use. End result indicated that the 5630 SMD produced 2.3 times the light... But at a cost of 2.5 times the power. So slightly less efficient. If I had a decent solar charger with a charge controller, I'd likely upgrade to 5630, but I haven't got the capacity to really blow on it. As my system is meant to go about a month between charges But you've given me an idea Joe Was thinking how could I get something that powered all that light, maybe even just for a few hours... So I just bought a 26ah, AGM sealed battery. It's small enough I just casually carry it as the 70ah unit is fairly heavy and a bit of a hassle to always carry it on each journey. I'm thinking, have the small battery in a little trolley, connected to a telephone coiled cord, and mount the strip inside two pieces of perspex, then attach a magnet or suction cups to mount a super bright light wherever I please so I can reduce the load on the big battery. Basically have a battery that is easily removable from a trolley that plugs it into a light which can move about on its flexible cord. And mount anywhere using suction cups. ... Thanks for the excuse to piss about in my garage

Happy birthday!

Sounds like a cheap fix by a wally who shouldn't be near spanners, if he just took the bulb out! A sensor should fix the issue, the bikes are small and dinky anyway, only got a few sensors to worry about

Less than £10 for 5 metres of the SMD's! They have a 120 degree viewing angle, and 3 metres produces in excess of 2000 lm of light and it is evenly distributed so no big shadows etc. Hope the info is useful, I did write it up fairly quick so it's open to editing! IMO a warm white is always better than cool white... And it *looks* like they emit more light.

Thought I'd write it up as there is very little of this on the internet, you have to do quite a wide range of research to get a good idea. So here is my setup, hopefully new members who join and existing who may have a property that has a garage with no power will find this useful. Also my boss has been busy for the last hour and the work that was meant to take me until tomorrow just finished. So I'm trying to be productive. Powering Your Garage INDEX 1. Option - Generator 2. Option - Leisure Battery 3. Option - Inverter 4. Best solution - My circuit/setup/materials list 5. Summary and planned improvements - Includes battery charge level guide and notes on solar power So you have a garage for your bike, it's safer, dryer and generally good place to hide out of the way of the weather if any work needs to be done. The problem? In winter especially, it is dark by 4pm. The solution, a 12v leisure battery from halfords, or a generator... Or maybe both. Now you have a variety of solutions available to you, so first I'll outline a few of them, with a brief pro vs con. Option 1: Generator A basic 1000w generator is all you really need for lighting and other applications... If you want to run compressors and welders you are going to need 3000w and upwards to power just a small welder. Pros: 1. On demand energy 2. Will run anything with the right size 3. Have a very long lifespan Cons: 1. Bigger ones use a lot of petrol so it's very expensive energy 2. Loud, especially the bigger ones 3. Cost a hell of a lot Option 2: Leisure Battery http://www.barden-ukshop.com/ekmps/shops/bardenuk/images/powermax-110-marine-and-leisure-battery-free-uk-delivery-527-p.jpg A 12v leisure battery, can be any size north of 30ah you like for a decent life span. Easy 12v power, just run it into a inline fuse, then to a power block and do what you did at school. Red wire is positive, black is negative. Couldn't be easier. Pros: 1. Silent, clean power 2. Easy to maintain 3. Very portable Cons: 1. Needs recharging 2. Can't power big items north of 10amps as the voltage will dive 3. Big battery weighs a ton and you need some decent muscles to carry it if you live more than a few mins walk from the garage. Option 3: Battery with inverter http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/1315634/16962839/0/1289195274/Medium_Power_Inverter_300W.jpg I can only suggest using this, if you are dead set on running mains operated equipment... Pros: 1. Easy as less wiring to play with, just plug a lamp in on the other end 2. Quieter than a generator 3. Can be used in your car if you want to power mains equipment from the socket Cons: 1. Bad losses through the inverter, and it uses some power for a cooling fan. Your battery won't last long. 2. Modified sine wave makes most LED bulbs flicker, and a fluorescent has a ballast that will blow the inverter easily. 3. Constantly whirring cooling fan might annoy people. It really did my head in. Best solution? In my view... I made the following 12v DC circuit as seen in option 2: http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad275/Chris-Fozzie/IMG_8473.jpg I originally used an inverter, but two of them blew up powering fluorescent bulbs. So I went for a simple 12V DC system. My materials were: 1. 70ah Leisure battery 2. Fully automatic charger 3. 20 metres of red and black cable 4. Some 15a connector blocks 5. Pack of inline switches 6. 5 metre reel of 5050 SMD strip lighting 7. 1 metre reel of 5050 SMD strip lighting (cool white colour) 8. LED strip connector strips 9. Battery connectors 10. An inline fuse 10a Total cost: £150 - And the only bit that needs replacing is the battery (£50) every 4 or 5 years. Results: http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad275/Chris-Fozzie/IMG_8561.jpg http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad275/Chris-Fozzie/IMG_8562.jpg Camera was adjusting for the glare coming off the strips. It is in fact brighter than it looks. Summary - Planned Improvements My maths reckoned the whole lot pictured would pull 3.5 amps. In reality 2 amps was more on the mark with readings being from 1.9-1.7a on average. This is because manufacturers of the LED lights give "worst case" figures for the power draw of their product. And as it's LED it is still much lower than incandescent. My only improvement would be to add a 1000w generator, but only to power electronics like pillar drills, power tools and so on. A low noise unit is barely audible around the corner from the garage if the neighbours aren't too close. You will be able to run your generator alongside this set up for maybe less than a couple of hours and as most have a 3 litre tank that will do above 10 hours according to customer reviews, you will be fine. So last info, for those wanting to do this, a leisure battery should not go below 20% discharge otherwise you hurt it more than say charging it from 50%, which is why i use a big 70ah battery. At 12.6V it is fully charged At 11.75 it is down to 30% which is the best time really to unplug and charge it back in the home. Keep the battery near a cracked open window, it shouldn't release much hydrogen to even smell, especially with an intelligent charger, but always play it safe A solar charger is also a good idea if you only work in the garage on the weekend. If you use it in the week it's probably best to also have a charger, but a solar panel will keep a battery topped up. Many caravan owners will swear by this method. If anyone has any questions do ask, I have a background in electronics so should be of some assistance

Phil is on the money. And this is why it's always best to run some STP fuel cleaner and give it a REAL good dose once every few thousand miles, it eats through light deposits Same for injected systems too, keeps the injectors clean.