Fozzie

Its normal My CBR600RR8 would pump out a hell of a lot of thin whispy smoke until it was warm. Very white in colour. Just a cold engine, should go once warm. Perhaps not fully but if it really settles down then dont worry

10W 40 fully synthetic... Get it off ebay, it's cheaper there. And go for a brand as I find them a safer option.

Change the CDI and the coils for new ones On some cars and bikes ive known there has been a problem where the coils go but cause damage to backfire up the line and blow the ECU or a CDI. Prime example was a Fiat punto that did this. Ran fine while it was cold, but when it warmed up its mapping changed but because of its damage it didnt fuel the car correctly and that is what caused the issue. A CDI is much more simple as it doesnt change mapping, however it can still be damaged and bugger up the ignition.

I had this problem earlier this year on my F4 so you arent alone! Take them apart again, you need to give the pistons a serious cleaning as they cack up quick. Get some brake fluid, and a chunk of wood and a G clamp that can fit in the caliper meaning you can block off two pistons and clamp the other and pump each one out individually. I did it and you wouldnt believe how unevenly they came out. Did them one by one and returned them and then had a quick check and they pumped out evenly after this! Renew the fluid and then try again, it removed my shudder, it felt like the bike was brake on and off quickly, then at slow speeds I could feel a slow lump as it braked slightly harder then came off again as I slowed to a stop. Also I can reccomend Carbon Lorraine pads and a stainless steel race set up. A lot more feedback now and slightly improved braking.

I agree however my bike and bikes such as the Kawasaki ER6F use wet filters as standard. I have replaced them on both though they werent that filthy, they were discoloured but nothing horrible in there.

Basically you have carbs with jets... They supply fuel, from different jets at different points of the rev range. E.g. Idle jet deals with keeping the bike going with no throttle and little air flow, up to the main jet which is supplying fuel at the top end. This corresponds to an amount of air. The filter restricts and keeps the air flow clean. If you allow more air in you could supply too much for the amount of fuel it can draw from the carbs, and so it runs lean or very badly in easy terms. This is why when you up the air flow you re-jet the carb for bigger jets I think I got that right

I think Boothy had an issue when he fitted an K&N filter

I like the look of the 954 as it looks sporty and fun with all the zest of a 1000cc but with a bit of practicality thrown in so Im sold with it being my next bike

I suppose, there is no replacement for displacement I often wondered with the Hornet being a lot more smooth and powerful down low and the Hannspree I had being also very smooth and powerful down low whether or not I could iron out the noticeable deadness of the 600F. I may just go for a CBR954RR or 600RR... Preferably a lower mileage but tatty one as I go overboard with modding. And my current CBR is too modded to give up on now so I will just do it up however I can within my means then hopefully have a good example of one for another year before upgrading!

For me it's weather dependant, as I can stop by on my way up to Teesside to see the gf So will see if plans and weather fall into place, and should they I will head on up

Luckily I wont even embark on a project unless Im absolutely sure I can do it within reason! Yeah the 954 stem would have to be turned down for me. Then the clearance between the bars and trim fairings becomes and issue so new higher clipons would have to be made. The engine I think just needs a remap, I'm happy with it as its only 8BHP down on an RR. I just want a better powerband down low, the bike has been unchanged since 2001 so likely as anything its mapping is from then and so could be improved theoretically. It will have satin black on it dont worry, just white and blue as well If not f**k it, I'll get a written off 600RR!

A bike revving high with little throttle is using about as much as a bike revving low with a lot of throttle... Rev it and keep above 4-5000rpm all the time, you will return the best economy that way. I got 117mpg out of my YZF-R125 at one time, and it had done 65-70mph ALL day which is 8000-9000rpm.

Not race tuning before I get a complaint Basically im getting a new bike at Christmas as a present to myself but I'm keeping the CBR. Don't know why after over a year and 12,000 miles I cant let the bugger go. However I have my niggles with it, which are: 1. I hate fat bubbly bums on a bike (and girls) and mine has one big ass. It doesnt match its angular face 2. The engine while able to outrun anything barring other sports bike of the same size and higher develops nothing down low. 3. The colour is a bit drab 4. The suspension isnt responsive enough, Ive taken the direction markers off the tyre but it starts to feel too soft when cornering hard as its a sports tourer. 5. The cam chain tensioner despite "knowitalls" telling me it only goes once keeps on ticking away after a few thousand miles My solution so far, coming this Christmas when I relieve it of service. 1. Streetfighter it... No not make it naked, a street fighter never had to be! I will be fitting a GSXR600 or 750 tail end from a K4-5 onto it. Buying a subframe for my bike then modifying it to fit the fairings and seat so I can sell the existing subframe and seat. 2. This is where I have problems, I know how to roughly power up something but remappping is a new territory. Ive read how to make maps and so on but I will let a pro do it but with the existing system is it possible to get it to run smooth through the bottom end leading to its usual 110BHP? 3. I am thinking of painting it the white and black of the F-sport BUT then having the wheels painted limited edition blue. 4. Want a nitron rear shock and a CBR954 front end 5. Can I make a manual cam chain tensioner rather than use a hydraulic one? I know some use them over in the states but dont know if its a good idea or not. So my main questions are, 1. Is it wise to use a front end off another bike? I am getting the suspension set up once its all on by a pro who will teach me in turn. 2. Is it possible to remap and make an engine behave that much differently? 3. Anyone suggest any better colour schemes? Oh and to add, I now have my own garage, which im converting to a workshop, and I have access to workshops with welding and cnc equipment and fabrication is something im half good at

I have always wanted to do something like this and intend to one day! Looks like you had fun

Just set up this schedule Chain tension every month and lubed - £7 for holts chain lube Oil and filter every 2500 miles - £15 Spark plug every 5000 miles - £11 Valve clearance check every 5000 miles - free with some feeler guages and a spanner Pretty good to go by given the 125 4-strokes ive had. BTW the difference between 2-stroke and 4-stroke. 2-stroke sounds like a super-charged strimmer 4-stroke sounds like a turbo charged lawn mower

I reckon a fair number will have done all! Knee down was something my mates were obsessed with when we were on 50s and 125s so I did it but it wasnt really impressive. I bought some strap on knee pads to go over my kevlar jeans lately and scuffed them a bit. But let it be known I was trying to, I was hanging off like an ape etc. I dont think it requires skill, more confidence. Pegs etc are common if I get into a "spot of fun" with another bike rider. I can do wheelies, im better at power wheelies, i still havent got a good nack of clutch wheelies so its inconsistent heights. Most with a 600 or higher can do these things, its down to whether or not you meant to do it The taking off I do on my travels up north to my parents via back roads. I do the whole 200 miles by A-road and theres two lovely hump bridges and if you go briskly towards them you get a good little hop off them. Probably not good for my suspension but the whole bikes coming to bits this winter anyway

I recognise that AM6 lump anywhere! Fantastic little buzzy engine, I delved into mine more times than sense There was a guide online on what to do with the oil ratio as mine was only a 52cc racing head but I had to adjust the oil input so it was higher. Easy enough, its just a cable. So you should look that up, failing that when you start it make sure theres a good rich smell of oil but not excessive. Otherwise you know its too high, you can use youtube and expert forums like I did to figure out exactly how much! But the most important thing with the AM6 engine is the crank case seals are very fragile and it is an awful job to replace them as you have to go through the whole engine. And remembering where bearings go will leave you with an epic memory

After an hour you cant just jump on and start it, you have to use a good amount of choke and throttle or you will be sat there forever with your hand on the starter button Get on, full choke, as you hit the starter twist the throttle on to about half for about a second, release and hold the starter. If it doesnt fire then something is up with the fuelling. It hasnt got the AM6 engine past 2006 so I'm not much help as my RS50 was a 2004.

Good stuff to see it progress more! I know the GT comes able to have the bigger engine ready to go straight in, frame is a good platform Are you using the carbs from the 125 or did you get a set for the 250? Increasing main jet size isnt always the best plan as you may run the bike overly rich at the high rpm's. You ideally need to increase the amount of air and then upping the jets and messing with the needle smooth the fuelling out so it runs just a little bit rich at all points! Or so Ive been told to keep it running reliably

I'm dubious about it being fuelling for some reason... When it warms up it should evaporate the fuel with greater ease and in fact run better! A coil could be heating up as I know a couple of cars and bikes that warmed up and as they did the coil pack got hot and failed, however it worked at low temps. So a good starting point would be to assume the bike has a coil issue. If it runs well right up until it warms up then its unlikely to be fuelling unless its something daft like the carb inlet rubbers heat up, expand and show off lovely cracks. Check the fuelling system first for good measure as it always gets a bike running nicely. I would then check the coils to see if they are failing when warm! And if both fail, check back here and we'll move on as you'll find more symptoms as you go.

Liking it! Thought about making the steering clip on bars, rather than the streety high rise bar?

Bugger, if I wasn't in work this late I would of but I saw the post too late! If your up near west london anytime for a trip to ace cafe or whatever let me know and I'll be over to you in seconds

What were you doing in the nether without adequate protection!? Me and my brother play a server every now and again and wont go in there unless we are geared up to the teeth Now im going to get addicted to that game again so f**k it!

I'm taking some holiday to go and do it probably on a thursday... Idea being its an unusual day, hopefully it will be quieter, though my time off will be determined by the weather during the week. The warmest day as I will be going on the bike

Had 2 hours of training today and now have a headache as the man spoke SO loudly Got the "back off holiday blues" and am looking forward to going on a huge all out trip to Florida next year with my girlfriend and some friends. Really want a project to work on as I've rebuilt so many peoples bikes now especially in the last few months its driving me nuts that I havent got my own to reap the rewards of finishing it Not so bad, just a general moan so f**k it