iangaryprice

If you have probelms and its definitely carb related then removing for a stripodown, inspect parts, clean and reassemble is the way to go.

While stripped down all the parts can be checked for faults, needle valves for sticking and leaks, diaphrams for splits, pistons for sticking, etc.

All jets need to be removed and checked for blockages,

I can't comment on price, I always do them myself, but it is time consuming.

I find front wheel easy to clean with a spray of wheel cleaner, then wash it like the rest of the bike. I work form top to bottom, wheels last.

Rear wheel usually covered in chain grease, so I use degreaser  spray on and leave to soak, often needs agitating with a brush as well.

Wash it off then wash the whole bike.

As commented above, deal with the wheels first, then wash the whole bike, wheels again but last.

Its not well advertised. I went n 2019, it was a good show. Hoping to go next saturday.

1 hour ago, fastbob said:

Ok that may be the case but all my big Suzuki's , the ER5 , the Harley , all CG 125s , Benleys , even the 3TA that I built last year have a Rocker Box gasket or gaskets . 

If you look at the link above for GS125 parts, the cam cover on this engine is also the top half of the bearing for the camshaft. When if forms part of the bearing like this you can't have a gasket, it must be metal to metal to get an exact sized and round hole for the camshaft.

My daughters YBR125 and my CB250RS were like this as well, no gasket.

My Suzuki CBX550, GSX600, the cover is just a cover and it has a seal, the cams are held in by caps inside the cover.

The "cam cover" on many bikes does not have a gasket, it will require sealant on the surface whne refitting.

If the rocker shafts are in the cover then a gasket would allow too much variation affecting the valve gaps.

1 hour ago, goat said:

Cheers @iangaryprice will double check all that first, would like to avoid carb fiddling if I can.  The leak was only when running and was a significant amount of fuel. Considering connecting an auxiliary fuel supply and turning it over to see if I can see where its coming out.

Remember that most fuel taps are vacuum controlled so are only open when the engine is running. So seems your tap is working OK.

With e leask I had 1, leaked all the time if tank was mor ethen 1/2 full. 2. Only leaked when engien was running.

1 hour ago, goat said:

Cheers @iangaryprice will double check all that first, would like to avoid carb fiddling if I can.  The leak was only when running and was a significant amount of fuel. Considering connecting an auxiliary fuel supply and turning it over to see if I can see where its coming out.

Good plan.

Started at 16 (as did most of my mates) on a Yamha FS1E.

Got a RD125 at 17, CB250RS at 20, CBX550 at 23 (kept untill 35, not always onthe road), Had a Yamaha FZ750 for a few months when 26.

Had a break for a few years, (got distracted by Speedboats - still got one) then got a GSX600F 8 years ago at age 50.

Stripping the carbs is quite a big job. I would look to check the leak is not from the tank/tap/fuel lines first.

I have had 2 fuel leaks on my bike.

1. The water drain pipe from the fuel filler cap recess through the centre of the tank and out through the bottom, it had a rubber drain hose connectd to it that went down and exited near the centre stand, fuel was leaking onto the floor. I had to get a new pipe soldered in tot he tank.

2. The rubber fuel hose from the tap to the carbs perished. Simple repair, new hose and alos fitted a new inline filter at the same time.

Both times I initially suspected leaking float valves (I bought spares which are still unused).

11 minutes ago, Tiggie said:

Welcome to the forum 

 

First thing I'd do is make sure the battery has a full charge. Clicking is usually a dead battery.

Yes, this is the first thing to do.

Check it, charge ti if required, usea voltmeter on the battery while trying to start. Record the voltages.

If it has a kickstart, try that. Or try a push start.

If your battery is OK, then ask again.

Its all down to the way you ride, riders die even on mopeds at 30mph!

Whatever you decide to get, ride safely and enjoy yourself.

Oil change on forks used to be easy as there was a drain screw in the bottom of the forks (80's bikes).

Current bikes don't have drain screws so more work involved for an oil change, if you need new seals its a strip down job anyway.

Vacuum pump is one way, but it may not get the worst of the dirty oil out of the bottom.

2 hours ago, billy sugger said:

A lot of bends on the roads into Wales have some crap on the bends that my tyres do not like

Thats wheree I am, Ewloe, Flintshire, North Wales!

On 20/12/2021 at 19:46, Breezin said:

Had to scratch the itch yesterday... calm and dry so took to the hills. Lasted about 30 minutes before I chickened out and beat a hasty retreat due to fog.

One of my less successful winter rideouts.

Coming down a slope, I took a bend where on two previous occasions my rear tyre went for a little slalom. This time, I had slowed to around 15mph and it still did it. It's a mystery as to why it's happening...  nothing visible on the road and the surface is one of those special anti-slip stretches.

 

Geta lot of these anti-slip surfaces near me, usually a lighter sandy colour.

They are not always that anti-slip, they tend to discard a lot of grit an dit piles up in the centre and sidesof where the car tracks are.

On 22/12/2021 at 16:35, linuxrob said:

sure a 600 bandit one will be the same?

I have a GSX600F the adjuster looks like it is the same.

I think you will find the chain is now tight because of the damage to the adjuster.

A 2nd hGSX600/750 should do the job.

I would go for the Helicoil option. Used them lots of times and nealy always been sucessful. I think I havea M10x1,25 helicoil kitid you are anywhere near North Wales (CH5 postcode).

Increasing the legth of thread engagement is a good idea. It looks to be that the hole in the top of the nut is too small, it should go over the thicker part of the stem not stop when it gets there.

Parts catalogue ight help, it will probably list different part numbers for different colured wheels, hopefully with a description which incldes colur name/code.

I can't hear anything to be worried about. I have a GSX600F sometimes in low speed stop/start I get what appears to be "clutch chatter", doesn't seem to ba an actual fault with my bike, I just learnt to avoid the revs/gear/clutch use that causes it.

23 hours ago, KiwiBob said:

Its easy to have a lapse of concentration when stopping for fuel so I try and pick petrol station on the right hand side of the road.

Sensible! I had my car written off in the UK, squaddie just back home form Germany, drovw down my side of the road after pulling out of petrol station - lapse of concentration after several years of driving on the right in Germany.

On 12/12/2021 at 11:50, DuRavary said:

Oh dear, all my vehicles have E10 in their tanks, just like they have for the past decade. Thank you for the warning. 

I am currently tring to use up all the E10 that is still in my boat, by transferrin to to my bike, its not going to last the winter. My bike is used regularly so the fuel does not get too old.

Down to 25 litres to use up now, was 70litres.

I fitted "cheap" heated bar grips to my GSX600F, about £15 off ebay.

They work well, adjusable seetings on the left grip, I was outand about 80mile run yesterday 5degC and thye kept my hand comfortable on setting 2 or 3 (max is 4) I think 1 is off, need to check.

Will have to wait and see how durable they are, says they have 5 years guarantee, we will see!

Another usefull accessory I got is a Bob Heath "V wipe" - silicon rubber wiper fits over your finger to clear rain off your visor. Works really well. Cost about £6.

I think the joint is sealed with O rings, if you are lucky new O rings should sort it. Other wise its a leaking pipe, the flex part (rubber) can perish or the steeel tubes/connectors can rust htrought.

Give it a clean with Gunk or Jizer and allow to dry, then run engine to see where the leak is. If you can't work out where th eleak is, try replacingth eo rings (cheap fix) and see if it works.

I made the mistake of searching for perfume for my wife for Xmas - now I not only have to put up with the adverts on TV they are all over my laptop as well.

I am a keen scuba diver, so always searching for dive equipemnt, trouble is there is a womens fashion brand called Scuba, these so called itelligent search engines cant tell the difference, I ge tno end of adverts for dresses!

Some photos of my heated grips. Left grip is a neat fit. The rigth one hasa gap between the grip and the bar end weight. I need to find something to fill the gap. The wiring I fed backwards an dunder the fairing. All the connections are hidden under the tank.

47 minutes ago, John Metcalfe said:

I'm probably more fortunate than you guys in the UK as living here in Tunisia we having good biking weather all year round with the average temperature this time of year being around 25C. Only problem I have is cleaning all the dust & sand out of the nooks and crannies after a ride out but that's a minor inconvenience compared to rain and snow in the UK.

Weather in the UK at present is not nice, it chnages every day. We have had 2 storms so far causing a fair amount of damage, todays not bad, about 8c and very little wind and no rain, but roads are mostly wet and not drying out. We had some snow last week as well.