iangaryprice

Your thinking along the right lines.

1. There is an engine problen causing it to get hot (i.e. Head gasket failed is a likley cause)

2. The coolant system has a problem preventing it keeping the engine cool (leak, thermostat, faulty rad cap)

If the head gasket has failed there will be combustion gases in the coolant, a garage can do a "sniff" test for this and quickly tell if the gasket has failed.

I had similar problems with my GSX600.

Fault was a bad earth connection, the black wire that goes form the battery to the frame hada connecter half way along, it had got wet and correoded. I cut the connector out soldered the 2 wires to gether. The connector seemed a bit redundant since one end of the cable was bolted to the battery end the otherto the engine/frame.

Where is the best place to buy parts? Been looking on motorcycle spare parts but seem a bit pricey. Diagrams on there are great though, anyone know where I can download exploded diagrams like that? Also what other model Suzuki's have parts that will fit the gsxf 750?

I havea GSX600F mostof the parts are the same as the 750.

Obviously some engine parts are different, Paintwork schemes are different, less decals on the 750 and different colours.

The handlebar mounts are also different, the 750 has its bars set about 30mm higher, it has an extra part on top of the top yoke and the top yoke may be different.

2003 models and newer have a restyled tail and light unit, looks a lot better then the earlier "teapot" design.

I started biking again five years ago after a 20 year break.

Fortunalely I Passed my bike test in 1980 so my licence covers me for all motorbikes.

I didn't do any refresher training but it makes sense to consider doing so.

Have fun and stay safe.

I have a GSX600F which has similar engine to your Bandit.

It used to run badly in heavy rain. missing stuttering etc.

I removed the tank to access the ht leads. Cleaned the plug caps and rubber shields in the cam cover.

The HT leads seemed to long, touching too many parts of the frame, so I shortened them to get better runs clear of anything metal where possible. A clean end to the lead also givesa better connectionot the plug cap.

I didn't need to replace any leads, those clips do look flimsy - as stated above.

Where I couldnt keep the HT leads away from metal I cable tied sheet rubber (about 1mm thick) to the metal frame and crossbar to give an extra layer of insulation.

Since I did this it has been much better in rain.

The autolube pump is driven from the gearbox, it will be leaking from the back side of the pump and the oil finding its way onto the gearbox.

If you remove the pump you will probably find 2 stroke oil on the back side of it.

I have a GSX600f 2003 which is the model that preceeds the GSX650.

I like my bike and have been looking to upgrade to something newer, I've had ot 5 years.

Where as the GSX600 isa srots tourer that sharesa lotof part with the Bandit, the GSX650 is more a Bandit with a fairing.

One thing that puts me off the 650 is the lack of ABS, my current bike does not have ABS but if I upgrade its on my list of must haves.

I have looked at the XJ6 but it seems a bit underpowered, I am looking at FZ8 now. I have always liked Yamahas,

I am an instructor with BSAC, I started diving about 7 years ago and worked my way up to Open water instructor,

There are differnces between PADI and BSAC.

PADI is a business, they earn thier money from teaching you to dive, you pay for lessons and they teach you, if you achieve the required standard you get your certifcation. If you just want to learn to dove so you can dive on holiday PADI will probably be the way to go. If you want to do more training you pay and do more courses. Courses typically cost £300+.

BSAC are a voluntary not for profit organisation, as are the BSAC clubs, you pay for membership of BSAC (£50 p/a) which gives you access to support, discounts, monthly magazine, insurance etc. You also pay a subscription to a club (£120+p/a -depends on club), for this you get access to swiming pool, instructrs, club facilities (this varies between clubs, but often includes loan of basic kit for initial traning, boats for coastal diving). Some clubs provide air fills, boats etc.

You can do as few or as many courses as you can do that are availabe, you just pay for training packs which typically cost £25-£35 per course.

If you are really keen on doing lots of diving and training, want to be part of a club, and dive in the UK as well as abroad then BSAC will suit you.

Many clubs will offer try dives in the pool (we get try divers most weeks and many join the club).

If you wan to know more please ask. Where are you based?

With that type of connector there should be an O ring inside. Check it isn't damaged or missing.

Also check the part it goes onto is not damaged.

I got an Oxford one recently. I changed insurer to get a better deal but new insurer required the bike be chained to ground anchor at night. ,ost wasa bout £18.

The Oxford one is easy to fix, drill 2 holes in the concrete, all fixings, even an allen key supplied.

Just need a good electric drill and a masonry bit.

It is possible previous owner lost the filler cap and maaged to find a dipstick cap that fits.

if this is the case the dipstick may be the wrong length,

I would go for gettign the level correct in the window.

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Welcome to TMBF.

I have a similar bike 2003 GSX600F. Got mine 5 years ago, was on 21,000 when I got it. now on 39.000.

Its been fairly reliable. Apart from the expected tyres, chain sprockets and service items.

The only unexpected items needed have been, calliper overhauls, rear brake light switch, battery.

One problem I have had that could have been expensive is the water drain tube in the petrol tank rusted through. I have done a good sound repair with copper tube soldered in place, didn't even damage the paintwork. Cost nothing, but had been quoted £230 to reair and repaint the tank.

AS per the details above you need 2 springs for the centre stand. I ave seen them for sale on EBay. Its wrth searching for GSX600F parts, most of them should be the same.

I was with Bennets, got remewl in January price had gone up form £96 last year to £126.

'i used price comparison site and got a quote with Bikesure £96 and excess only £150 (Bennets was £400)/

I also get annoyed when renewal price is not competitive, I will see what happens with Bikesure next year.

I have a Halfords 1/2" drive socket set, must be getting on for 30 years old now, the 13mm & 17mm sockets have been replaced (frequent use) and the 12" extension (lost it). It covoers sizes 8-30mm (and imperial, but you probably only need metric)

I also have a Draper expert 1/4" socket set, sizes 4mm to 13mm, includes deep reach sockets and screw driver, torx and hex bits) This set is really useful for my bike. 10mm, 13mm, Pozi 2, and a few Hex bits are used all the time.

If you are only goingot deal with bikes then a 3/8" set might be a cost effective solution. Should cover 6mm- 24mm.

Check what sizes you need on your bike.

Three sets fo spanners, Combination spanners - these hang on a rack on the wall for easy acces for quick jobs, then open ended and ring sets in the tool box.

Loads of screwdrivers, Japanese bikes use JS specification for the cross head, if you can get htese screwdrivers at sensible price then great, if not Pozi area close substitute.

My top recommendations is a soft faced mallet, Mine has rubber one end, and hard plastic the other, ideal for tappong wheeel psindles outt etc, with out damageing them. Hammers will easily damage the end of threads and such.

Some bike specific bits:

1. Oil filter wrench, looks like a black cap that fits over the end of the filter, then use 3/8" socket set. Makes removing and fitting much easier.

2. Tappet adjusting screwdriver, on my bike the tappet screw is a small square head, this little tool fits it and makes them much easier to adjust. ( oh - nealry forgot - Feeler guages for checking tappets san spark plugs). There are differen tools for different makes /models.

3. Cable lubricator - clamps onto the end of a cable and makes it easier to get lube into it.

4

I have a big tool rack with 15 drawers, but then I have cars, boats, and bikes to maintain and fix. I have accumulated tools over the years that have only been used once (essential at the time) and some may never be used again.

Decide what job you wantot o do and then think you r way through it, which tools to use etc. If you don't have the required tool, aquire it, to start with you will need to keep buying tools, but soon you will havea useful set and only need to but "specialist" tools for specific jobs.

Having travelled many miles today on the motorway, I was somewhat perturbed by the many vehicles ( mostly lorries and vans ) who were dumping sheets of frozen snow off their roofs onto the road and anyone following them.

Surely this cannot be legal?

Having driven through 3 of these sudden events I was grateful I wasn’t on a bike!!

I used the car all this week because there were patches of ice on untreated roads.

After a few days of freezing conditions, I decided the biggest risk was beeing hit by ice flying off vehicles, at one point large pieces ht my windscreen and I could even feel the pieces under the tyres !!!

I suspect someof the drivers of artic larries don't even realise what they are doing.

Check the chain tension.

For most bikes there should be about 20-30mm of chain movemnt.

Check it 1/2 way between front and rear sprocket. Use a ruler to check the movement while pushing up and down with fingers. It is better to check it while the bike is on the sidestand, if you cehckit while onthe centre stand it gorda bot tighter when the bikeis back onits wheels and the suspeension compresses.

Too tight will cause damage, who fitted the chain and sprockets? Was it adjusted ocreectlyot start with? Has it been adjusted since?

A new chain will settle in slacken during the forst 500miles or so, and will needa n adustment.

Then it not wear quickly and may only require adjustment occasionally.

Are you sure soemthing else is not loose, check the nuts on the rear sprocket and remove the cover and have a look at the front sprocket.

Kerosine/Parrafin is ideal for cleaning the chain.

I brush it on, run the bike round the block, then wipe it off with a rag.

Leave to dry for a while then re-lube. WD40 does a good job as well.

In the summer I sometimes use gear oil, bushed on, its less messy than spray can grease. It doesn't stay on long, but after a few applications the chain ends up cleaner.

I intend to go this year. Went 2 years ago and got a good deal on a Helmet & a good day out.

If your spot lights and Heated grips are on the same fuse as the lights, you are probably overloading the circuit.

If you do find it is a single fuse, then consider getting the Heated grips at least onto a seperate curcuit.

I have had my GSX600F for 5 years.

I currently use it mostly for commuting to work - 21miles each way, mostly dual carriageway/motorway.

It is 2003 and had 21,000 miles when I bought it, currently 37,000.

Reliability has been good, apart from the usual oil/filters/tyres/chains/sprockets, it has needed a battery, rear brake switch, callipers overhauled. Not bad for 5 years and 16,000miles. It shares a lot of components with the Bandit 600.

I like it for my commute, engine isn't peaky, fairing keeps a lot of the weather off me,

Low speed journeys can get tiring on the arms, its a bit of a lean forward position, but for my commute at motorway sppeds its great.

ZZRs are quick, a lot quicker than mine, but engine is a bit peaky, the Z750 shown above might be worth a look.

CBR600 are generally good but can be expensive, Bandits are popular but fairings don't provideas much weather protection.

With budget of £2000 finding a good well looked after bike is you r best bet.

Just adding adjusters may not work, you may need the dampers inside the forks as well, if fact you may need the entire forks.

220kg is likely to be too heavy for a tow bar hitch.

Most cars can only have a tow hitch of 75kg, Althpugh your Amarok will be higher (My Dsicovery can have a htch load of 125kg, i would expect similar for the Amarok)

But its still not enough to carry your Triumph.

As suggested above, trailer is your best bet. Easier to load as well.

Are you checking them with the engine running as some bikes dont illuminate headlamps without engine running ?

Any history of bike .

have you seen them working ?

On many bikes the headlight will not illuminate untill the engine is runnng, this prevents the battery being run down and provides extra power form the battery to start the engine.

When the engine is runnng a relay will switch to turn the headlight on.

The trigger for the relay is often the output from the alternator.

Witht he engine off the alternator out put is 0v, when tis runnng the output isa bout 14v.

The 14v switches the relay turning th eheadlight on.

Your fault could be with htis relay.

To trace the fault you will need the wiring diagram for your bike.

Pushing the pistons in may work for a short time.

However the only real permanent solution is to strip the callipers and rebuild with new seals.

Also if the callipers are the sliding type (pistons on one side only) then the sliders will require cleaning, re-greasing etc.

As above of the bike is used more frequently then this problem si less likely to happen.

You need to get out more (on your bike(s))!!!!

I've done 4000+ on my GSX600F.