iangaryprice

9 hours ago, onesea said:

I have to ask which cheap ones you bought?
I have used this type for years (5 years and 4 years), and I cannot fault them.  

What attracted me is there is no control box to mount on the handle bars.

 

The only additional thing I have done is fitted a relay so they turn off with the ignition.

 

I had Oxford on my fittest bike and IMHO they got to hot your hands sweated then got cold because they where damp.

 

These are the ones I bought off ebay. £15.79.

I connected mine into the headlight wire (headlight live when ignition is on) so did't need a relay. I put a 10amp breaker in the line (going to change it for a 5amp one soon).

I like the lack of control box as well, the oxford ones are quite large and stand out. These grips are fairly unobtrusive, only the control on the left grip shows they are fitted (wiring is mostly hidden). I didn't use the metal bracket supplied for the wiring on the right grip, I got it much neater with a cable tie ontot the exsiting wiring.

I'll get some photos later and upload them.

I checked the current draw with them set to maximum, it was about 2 amps (without engine running, I'll check again with enf=gine running). I think the Oxford ones are about 4 amps,

1 hour ago, Stu said:

 

Heated grips are so underrated! 

 

A lot of people say nah you don't need them but once you use them you need them on every bike 

I think I will end up agreeing with you. I bought the cheap ones because I wasn't convinced. Only cost £14, (1/2 the costof R&G and 1/3 cost of Oxford), seem to work well, not sure how long they will last, they have a 5 year guarantee and seem fairly well made.

After this afternoons test ride I realised I had not put the liners back in my Jacket and trousers (wondered why this winter seemed so cold). Should be nice and warm now - heated grips and thermal liners!

I ride mine most of the winter, MOT done last month, new Michelin Pilot road 4 fitted on front, I have a rear in the garage, it will be fitted soon.

I fitted heated grips today and went for a test ride. I only got cheap ones £15 off ebay, but first impressions are good. I could feel the heat though my gloves aftera few minutes.  Started on max heat setting (4) turned down to 3 after about 10 mins. I think 2 would have been best for a longer ride. Temp was about 8degC today so hopefully they are powerful enough for frosty mornings.

MOT time for my GSX600 today, passed with advisory - rear pads near limit.

Been busy with it recently, new fornt tyre, new battery, replaced fuel hose & filter from tap to carbs .

5 hours ago, billy sugger said:

Anyone remember the butter mountain, amongst others 

I remember it, tried to climb it, not a good idea, slippery as hell!

I have just bought Pilot Road 4's for my bike. Had to get hem from 2 different places. No where had both sizes in stock. Front arrived in 2 days. For rear got a call saying they were out of stock, delivery would be about 2 weeks, not a problem for me, the front has about 1 month left in it, rear has more. Since it was a good price, I agreed to wait.

Had to order a new battery today as well, thats already out for delivery, so should get it on wednesday.

1 hour ago, Yorky said:

 

 

They're the ones you need to worry about.

They are usually visible, butby the time you have seen them it too late - they'vw got you.

Also they havea habit of pairing them up, you see one, think there won't be another one anywhere near, then just down the road there is a second camera.

Fitted a replacement front caliper, rebuilt with new seals. Old one was loose, slide pins had rusted and worn.

Been out for a test ride, busy at Sams cafe (by A&d Motorcycles inDenbigh). Didn't see a speed camera van today - unusual for sunday in North Wales.

Thanks fo rth ebirthday wishes, had a great day outon the sea messing with boats.

If you are lucky then the connector and all the positions are the same, in which case the wire colours don't matter.

If the connector ois different then it will be a bit more work.

Check what hte switch does between your model and an earleier one.

Generally the wiring will be

+12v input to the switch.

IN off position nothing should be ocnnected to the input.

In the "on" position there will be at least one output.

+12v output - allows all the lights, horn etc to work.

+12v output - engine ECU/ignition and starter.

Both of the above should be connected tot the +12v input

There will also be a parking light position.

+12v output to sidelights. Only connected when in the parking position.

Hope this helps,

This seems to have made the deadlines because the of the hammer thrown at the Cops.

The crime started with stealing the bike, somebodys pride and joy that they had spend mamy hours earning the money to pay for.

The police seem to dismiss the theft part as trivial, but if they treated it nore seriously then it wouldn't escallate to physicalattacks on them

One way to createa Hardtail but still have shocks!

I use a rag soaked in white spirit to clean the excess off then something like Gunk or Muck-off for a final clean.

Meths does not disolve grease or oil very well.

23 hours ago, Stu said:

 

You are checking it right aren't you? as I have mad this mistake before in that when the switch is removed there is no pressure on the tab that operates the switch which makes the circuit 

 

Basically the lever holds the circuit open and once the switch is removed it then becomes closed 

 

 

As above the switches seem to work the wrong way around when not installed. Not pressed - switch closed. Preseed switch open.

3.4 Amp is about right for the current draw. Most bigger bikes have 2 bulbs - 2 x 21w =42w /12v =3.5amp.

15 hours ago, Bender said:

Mate just sold range rover back to garage where they bought it 2yrs ago, they only lost 2k

I saw on the news, inflation is going up in the US mainly because 2nd hand vehicles are getting much more expensive.

Almost any vehicle from the seventies is worth a lot of money these days.

I think this is because those of us in our fifties/sixties either had these vehicles or wanted them when were teenagers.

Now we have disposable income to buy them, even at inflated classic vehicle price tags.

Some are more sought after, the big headline bikes, Kawasaki Z900, Honda 750 for example.

It's difficult to say which current bikes will become valuable classics. The bike market is very different now to when I was a teenager. Most bikes now are sunday toys, low mileage clean bikes (of which there are plenty) hold thier value well compared to cars, owners are older as well.

DID chains are good, often considered by many to be the best. they do gold versions.

You need to look after gold chains, my bike had gold chain when I got it. It looked good untill winter, I omitted to keep plenty of grease on the side (gold part) the gold colouring started to come off because of rust and it looked horrible.

Make sure your footrests are clean as well, or you could find them slippy next ride, especially if its raining!

The bikes I had in the 70's 80's always ended up with ripped seats, they seem to be much more durable these days, my GSX600F still has original seat with no rips or tears (18 years and 50,000 miles)

These days It seems to bemore common to modify seats than repairs.

There seems to be a lot of riders who want to reduce seat height, one way is to mod the seat, althouugh suspensin ods seem to be the more common route.

Are you looking at doing seat recovering as a sdie business?

5 hours ago, Mr Fro said:

Stuff like that goes down a black hole, only to turn up on the other side of the garage years later.

 

Just think of it as having a spare... somewhere.

It willl turn up 10mins after the replacement arrivesin the post!!!!

Can you post a photo of the part? If you are lucky carbs off something more comon like GSX might have th esame part.

GP - Great racing, I 'm hooked on it, Hoping the racing stays close for the rest of the season.

GP2- Sam made a good start, then failed to finish, improving again.

GP3 - Not a good start forMcPhee!

I had similar on my GSX600F, it was a bad connection on the earth lead.

Some lights still worked because they found an earth path through other ways, but it wouldn't start.

Test the battery with a a bulb, headlight bulb is ideal - it will draw about 4 amps which will gve it a good test.

If bulb is bright for a few minutes then baterry is good.

If battery is good, look fo ra bad connection.

If battery is bad, you need to work out if its the battery or charging system.

Charge the battery up and try it out. if it still bad then replace battery.

If battery now looks good, check the voltage with engne running, should be at leasyt 14V.

Take the tank off, then you should be able to see the coil packs.

Best to remove the tank while fuel level is low, gets  a bit heavy when full. On some bikes you need to lift the rear of the tankup to disconnect the fuel pipe, Vacuum pipe (if fitted), fuel gauge wiring ( if fitted). Sometimes you can get at hem with the tank in place.

Coil packs should be simple to replace - 2 bolts, HT lead /plug cap, and the low voltage wiring.

Often worth taking photos before you remove anything so you can see where parts have to go back.

The notches in the clutch basket look really bad to me, particularly the center where the metal plates locate.

I have seen ones with marks where the plates touch but never actual indents like that. These notches can prevent the plates moving easily which then allows the plates to seperate to prevent clutch drag. Try cleaning the faces up with a file, if you need to remove a lot of metal, then a replacement centre may be required.

The outer is not too bad where the friction plates locate. I would expect that can be cleaned up with a file/abrasive.

Its difficult to tell how badly worn the friction plates are from the photos. You really need to measure the thickness with a micrometer /vernier. You will need the specifcation for the thickness (new and wear limit).