iangaryprice
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Posts posted by iangaryprice
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40 minutes ago, Bianco2564 said:
Although I do still use my vernier calipers I've had for over 30 years.
Same here, had mine for 35 years.
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1 minute ago, dynax said:
I have 2 British Seagull outboards, it's been so long since I last used them I can't even remember which models they are, one is a long shaft and the other is a short one
Mine is a bit different to a Seagull. Yamaha V4 130hp 1700cc - pushes my 17ft Fletcher to over 50mph. Gives environmentalists nightmares - about 6mpg is lucky and 2-stroke oil!
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I'm still having withdrawal symtoms from 2-strokes. Still got a 2-stroke outboard for summer time fixes.
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2 hours ago, skyrider said:
you could go with JT sprockets
Theya re the ones I was tryingto remember, they get a lotof recommendations.
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On 11/02/2021 at 08:09, Bender said:
Just looked at 50cc lexmoto wiring diagram and it's negative ground/earrh I don't think much if anything has positive ground system these days
Modern vehicles have alternators which have negative earth. If you go back to 60's and earlier you find vehicles with Dynamos, these had positive earth.
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I agree with e comments above, DID, Regina, RK all good brands.
My bike had a gold coloured chain when I got it, lookeed good untill a few monthsof salty roads and it looked terrible. Got non-coloured DID now.
Quality of sprockets can vary, not sure what to recommend here, maybe someone else will comment.
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I want to connect the battery. I've seen guys doing it the standard way - negative first, positive last. THEN, I've seen mechanics in bike shops connecting the positive first.
It is safer to connect the positive first, if the spanner/screwdriver accidentally touches any metal work, there is no problem since the earth is not yet connected.
When you connect the earth - if the spanner/screwdriver touches metal work - no problem its what its connected to anyway.
You just have to be careful when working on the earth you don't touch the positive - make sure to put the red cover over the positive terminal.
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Are you sure its the front tyre that is causing the problem?
How much tread is left on the tyres?
"white lining " tends to get worse as the tyres get more worn, but its usually the rear the is most affected.
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I've got a GSX600F 2003, owned it for 7 years now, done nearly 30,000miles on it, been fairly reliable, apart from the usual tyres, chain and pads, its had new starter, rear shock, shock link, and a few other minor parts.
I enjoy riding it, great for longer trips, fairing good at keeping rain and wind off, performance and handling good as well.
I keep meaning to get something newer but haven't found anything I like yet.
Hope you enjoy yours.
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I fitted a basic non adjustable indicator warning bleeper on my Suzuki GSX600. It helps but is only audible upto about 30MPH.
Repeater lights on the dash are only really visible when its dull or dark
I had a 1978 Yamaha RD125 that had self cancelling indicators, worked off a switch on the speedo that switched them off after 1/10 mile.
Do Yamahas still have this?
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Merry Christmas everyone, and a happy new year.
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Thats gongto make teh restorationa lot easier. Good find.
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On 17/12/2020 at 22:03, Stu said:
The carb rubbers could take care of the different angles and the carbs may sit at the same angle
As above the carbs (top face of float bowl) should be horizontal. The carb rubbers should hold the carbs horizontal.
You need to check the spacing between the carbs as well. Adjustment might be difficult.
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Would GSX600 carbs fit? Should be planty of these available.
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Seems you have to be quick with bike carbs these days.
My local garage does a lot of jobs on Rally/motorcross tye competition cars. One of the popular mods is to fit motorbike carbs, appears it works well for more power and better throttle response.
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I havea digital non-contact thermometer. Only cost £12 . ideal for jobs like this.
Similar to this
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GSX600f should have a prime setting on the fuel tap marked "PRI" in this position the fuel will flow without vacuum.
Try it on this setting, if it now runs OK, the problem is in the tap. Try commecting a fuel line to the tap and see of fuel flows freely, first in the prime position, then try in the "main" and "res" positions. You will need to attach a pipe to the vacuum and suck on it to make fuel flow.
Are you sure you just didn't run low of fuel. From full my GSX600F can be onto reserve between 120-160 miles, reserve is about 5 litres.
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4 hours ago, Fleck said:
Thought I was getting one, 3 weeks ago I saw a camera van, looked down at the speedo... 38mph
lifted off and slowed down. I know the clock reads about 4mph high so probably got off with that one by the skin of my teeth 
If your speedo said 38mph, true speed 34mph then you should be OK, most Police Forces use the add 10% and 2mph = 35mph.
I had a close call on the Denbigh road , over the crest of a hill, spotted the camera van, they were just closing the hatch to move on! Close call!
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14 minutes ago, Swagman said:
It pissed down here all day .
Same here, thought about taking the bike for a spin, down came the rain, so stayed in the garage making brackets for my trailer.
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5 hours ago, Stu said:
@linuxrob I am guessing you know a thing or two about electrikery
What's your thoughts on running LED's on the standard wiring? would this create less load and reduce the need to re wire the whole lighting loom?
LEDs will draw less current, hence less voltage drop. Poviding you don't use "Canbus compliant" types, these have a load resistor so that they draw the same current as a normal bulb.
The trouble with LEDS is over the legality. They are not "E" marked so technically not permitted to be used on the road.
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5 minutes ago, linuxrob said:
I am so glad it is of use. I look forward to reading about it. GSX600F "teapot"?
The Bandit uses HB4 for low beam and HB3 for High beam. Dip is the low bulb only, high beam just adds the high beam bulb. If the new H7 bulb you are using draws even more current (higher wattage) the voltage to it will drop more with the std small wires on your bike. Here are the links for the bits i used.
Waterproof relays
Wire
4 way fuse box, this uses the same small blade fuses the bandit has.
you may want to find new H7 and H1 connectors with larger gauge wires as I did with the HB4 and HB3 ones. the std ones should be ok as you will only use a very short length of original wire. I replaced mine to be 100% sure.
I am sure that the K6 and above bandits use thicker wires i the headlamp circuit but they will only be just good enough.
Regards
Rob B
Yes GSX600F "Teapot" although mine has the newer better styled rear light unlike the earlier ones that got the bike the teapot nickname.
I was thinking of using the existing headlight connector to connect via short leads to activate the relay. Then use new wires for the battery via fuse and relay to new headlight connectors.
I found a H4 bulb connector in the garage (bought it to repair a burnt out connector on a Landrover) the wires on that are much thicker than my Suzuki. I will measure the voltage drop tomorrow. The bulb I have (+150%) is still standard 55W.
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If you find 2nd hand panels you could always ask the seller if he has the screws as well.
Make sure you get panels for the same or newer year thn yours, earlier model panels are different ( Earlier YBRs don't have the extra plastic panels at the front of the tank.
AS said above you needa chain guard as well, I think ti will fail an MOT without.
Bar ends are optional, thye stop vibrations that make you fingers tingle.
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There are 2 reasons that could have caused this problem
1. Rear wheel repair not oen correctly. I know you trust hte guy, but everyone can have a bad day.
2. Corrosion has caused something to sieze, common this time of year because there is now salt on the road.
Put bike on the centre stand. Raise front wheel clear of the ground and try to rotate it. It should be easy to rotate and continue to rotate after you stop pushing it. If not easy, main culprit lilely ot be the brake, less lilely wheel bearings
Repeat with the rear wheel.
If either wheel is hard to rotate listen and look at what is happening. Try rocking it back and forth.
If the brake is binding there will be no free play, the drag will be fairly constant. If its a drum brake try to move the arm on the backplate, they often sieze into the backplate, after you apply the brake it should be released by the spring, try pressingthe brake pedal and see what happens. You my be able to see which part is sticking. Check there is free play the pedal should move about 10-30mm before the brake is on.
Have a look to see the chain is adjusted correctly, should have about 15-30mm play. Check the wheel spindle nut is tight and the adjusters are correctly positioned,
Good luck, report back with what you find.
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Excellent post, well written.
I have a GSX600F, although it has twin headlights, road illumination is poor. It is a later one so only one light on for dipped beam, high beam just turns the other light one as well, uses H7 for dipped and H1 for main beam. Earlier ones had 2x H4 bulbs and run both headlights on dipped.
I recently replaced the H7 bulb with a +150%, this has made a noticable improvement.
Having read your post, I am going to look at relays with thick wires like you have done. I'll let you know how I get on.
New carb but bike still running rich
in Pitstop
Posted
Have you checked the ignition timing? Points go outof setting quickly.