Bill_on_a_bike

First of all, check your air filter is clean. I very nearly went ripping my carb to pieces onces and luckily cleaned my air filter first, which solved the problem.

When you take the plug out, clean it up with emery cloth or a soft wire brush, and wack it back in. Fire it up, take it for a ride. Then take the plug out again. the colour and texture of the electrodes can tell you alot about how the engine's running. http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg

I know later models of my bike had a carb pre heater, an electric heater strapped to the carb. I don't know if they ever made one for the EL.

The recognised bodge way of doing the above involves removing all the skin from your nuckles and filing for a divorce at the end of it. Are there no garages near you that might sell them, they can't be that expensive surely? I've seen nylon strap ones aswell.

If you choke a human being you starve it of oxygen, which is exactly what you do to an engine when you choke it. Some of the engines 'suck' if you like would have sucked in air, but now it can't, it just sucks harder on the fuel, meaning more fuel. Theoretically, this means it'll start easier. Running your engine like this however, is basicly running it "rich" ie. too much fuel, which if nothing else will coke up your spark plug. My bike, perhaps because of rubbish carb settings which need addressing, never starts on coke, and will start much more readily on about 1/4 throttle. Like said above, learn your own bike, mine used to have the not starting after stall issue, found it helped to have plenty of fuel in the tank, no seirously. If this all seems like too much of a faff get a later bike with an ECU, because they do all of this for you using sensors and injectors and witch craft.

I know a guy with an NSR who's derestricted it and all that jazz, had it for years and as far as i know no major engine work.

Cheers DTM, I like to think so lol. The one problem I have is that I need the bike for school, which gives me limited time slots when I can work on it, especially with it getting dark so damn early. What I wish I had with all my heart is a garage.

I have suspected for a while, and have had it confirmed by the nice man at the MOT place that my rear brake shoes are on the way out. Having read the haynes manual, the procedure to replace them seems quite straight forward, wheel off (never done it before but doesn't seem too complicated). It doesn't describe how the "brake back plate" is attached, but it needs to be removed. then get the old shoes out, new ones in. Is there any thing I should note in this or the reverse procedure? Also, my wheel spindle is in the other way round to the one photographed in the book, is this an issue? Cheers guys

The SV650S, ie. with a fairing, looks nicer than all of those imo. That new hornet look like someone sat on its face.

I thought so long and hard for a joke reply to this one, well done para, did make me laugh

Tried one of these half face things like pictured above, and i could not get my helmet on without the helmet just pulling it down and off. I couldn't get it back on with the helmet on, i tried putting it on higher than it was meant to be to counter the dragging, just, didn't work.

Yeah but if the clutch plates were sticking together it could be unavoidbly almost stalling the engine.

Sounds like a clutch thing to me, unless i've misunderstood.

Despite it being completly unrelated to the problem, you defiantley should have bought a four stroke, that definately would have made the difference.

If you're coming to a stop from 40 to some lights, you hit the brakes, clutch in BANG BANG BANG first gear, then the lights change, you're still doing 20 as they change, you let the clutch out you'll either lock the back wheel or have your face thrown in to your speedo, and your engine will make a very ugly noise. I always change down one at a time according to my speed so if needs must i'm good to go again.

I do apologise. Crazy yanks

Lol, I don't think they're ever supposed to do that, imported or not!

When you get off our bike and you inevitably can't feel your hands, just hover them round the cylinder head for a bit, I've done this many times at school.

Fixed it boys and girls. Bolt came out with a screw driver on the burr left on the end, and a replacement came for the grand sum of 20p

To derestrict something it has to have been restricted in the first place. 2 Strokes have to be restricted to meet power output laws but 4 strokes don't, so that really is all they've got to give. You could take them apart and give them a damn good clean out, set valve clearnances might help. If you've feeling really imaginative i guess you could super charge one, but there's no restriction as such.

Could it be the extra power from your altenator is sending some part of the indicators batty? I'd say try changing your relay, they're not V. Expensive and it's always handy to have a spare if it's not that.

Sorry Rolla, what's a centre pop? A centre punch? And how will that get the bolt out?

Also, how likely is this thing to shake itself loose and spray my leg with hot oil?

Dad's down the pub, working on it

That's the thing Stu is i barely barely put any kinda torque on it atall, just gave it a nip and it gave way. Cheers for advice guys, i'll try and find one of these easy outs as soon as i can find a replacement bolt!