smallfrowne

I'm now (mostly) in possession of a Sigma Racing slipper clutch. It popped up on my phone showing 10mins to go on ebay, so very spur of the moment purchase. But, I have since learnt that it is incomplete as well as quite worn. This information is probably going to be of no use to anyone as it's so niche of an issue, but as I often find it's when things aren't going smoothly you learn the most. Ya see, Sigma sell two variants of clutch for the SV, one for the run of the mill 72bhp and one for 90+ tuned up bad boys (well, not really it would still be an SV). The beefier racing version takes two extra plates (1x friction 1x steel) and comes with a replacement clutch basket. The standard uses standard clutch pack and OEM basket. I have been sent a racing version without the basket, which was apparently damaged & they didn't realise it needed it (me neither), so didn't send it. A few emails and calls to Neil of Sigma has made this all make sense, and a great help he's been despite me spending nothing at his shop, so far. Normál version: Double RR Racing version: What I have: So there's a few jobs to do. Make sure it fits in the standard basket. Make sure it fits behind the clutch case. Make sure the slipper clutch clearance is set right (1.0 - 1.2mm). Is the current amount of wear any trouble...

Yeah I'm still drinking! Turned into a bit of a mini-saga this clutch. It popped up on my phone showing 10mins to go on ebay, so very spur of the moment purchase. But, I have since learnt that it is incomplete as well as quite worn. Maybe I'll do a thread on it. I've just been out to the shop for a) more beer & b) blu tack Edit: Gonna have a go, thread started:

I wouldn't haha. Just in case I need any parts. Mind if it came to anything serious, like cam related, I would probably just put it straight in the bin anyway. them parts are pricy.

I'm glad I could set you up for that. I think this thing is toast actually so I may end up with a pair yet. Bugger. Oh bikes. I think I need a contemplating pipe and tin of st bruno.

haha I've never seen this comment when looking up parts before... I mean you can see what has happened here at £43 a plate.

Stripping down a new to me but used and dirty sigma slipper clutch in front of the telly with a glass of wine. Terrible work.

Topped up the tyres and oil, taxed it, and took it to tourist hell, Hathersage, Hope, and Castleton. Pretty little Winnets Pass and toying about in the traffic at each village, but no rush so no bother. Half a pint of best at Edale in the sun. Nice 80 miles of cobweb blasting.

I haven't read anything apart from a few words of the headline but I was very impressed at the genuine Honda VFR750 replacement hoses which had the necessary bends already formed perfectly and for a few quid more than the pain of bending up a decent set of hoses of equivalent standing. It's a real murky business buying fuel hoses. I hate it.

f**k it, fit the plate and see what happens. Not the end of the world is it. Are you doing regular 12o'clockers on the thing? They still seem to drive around in 'rraris sans front plates round these 'ere humble parts. I suppose if you in a 'rrari you're not really humble mind whatever the local economy. Lifes still for living isn't it? f**k it. 1950s plate style makes you happy? Do it. Nihilism baby. I believe in nothing.

Ahh that's lovely. Ya see I had the opposite problem, I got the jacket first then needed to figure out which bike it went with, but that idea's gone off the rails now I'm in my modern phase. Mines a black, teal, and purple number from Scott. Unfortunately they don't seem to make bikes in them colours anymore. Yamaha mt kind of gets close I suppose with them tealy greeny wheels. You're probably just going to have to patient with eBay/vinted/Facebook marketplace. Or get one made, which is what I did with my one piece because there just wasn't anything garish enough off the peg.

You'll find out when you get in there then most likely. If it looks and smells like you've left it in the toaster a bit too long you know that it's that. Burnt bits, and you can't just scrape them off over the sink. Other things to upgrade maybe, it's not really "fixing" anything, but the connectors from the stator and to the reg rec were not good on my bike and not really up to their job. The 3 pin plug from the stator got quite hot which indicates that there is too much resistance in the connection. I replaced with (iirc) 45a Anderson connectors. But that was once I got everything working again and wanted to keep it like that. It's fairly common to see melted stator plugs, probably accurately specced by honda at time of being brand new and shiny, not so much after a few years. Also, easy one, replace fuses in general, they are known to corroded after a few years, increasing resistance and weirdness. On my VFR750 the main fuse eventually completely melted and caused a scene on the side of a mountain.

Have you checked that the stator is in fine fettle? That went on my nc30 as well as the reg rec. There are some electrical tests you can do

Yeah health and safety I always thought was quite sensible in that place. Though they still had pictures up of the old boys doing it in waistcoats and flat caps. I suppose it was a bit of an adventure, always something going off. I always thought it was quite hard to show people around, trying to describe from a little distance what things were, to them everything was just another random dust covered object, with a strange name like tundish. And yes the power cables dancing about was a reminder of the power on tap haha. We had some French guys in to upgrade our furnace arm regulation. Nice guys and really smoothed out the power delivery, made our pm ladle furnaces sing, well, gently hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Double post whoopsie daisies. But I'll put a picture of a random ladle in a ladle car with the ladle crane legs hanging about just for fun. And I'll just add that I'm enjoying the stories tinkicker.

Yeah that does sound quite high. The biggest I've done is about 2000Nm, but that was be 'and wi' a big norbar torque wrench . Oh how they watched me struggle when I first did it. Needed a running start to get it to click/deflect, before I developed the right belly for it. It was to joint a new section to the top of these red hot poker things. If you didn't do it right (dreaded cross thread, not nipped up, debris in the delicate graphite threads...) it could mean the thing drops off into the furnace. Major pain and pretty costly, one because they just are expensive and two because now your steel is picking up carbon, and three you are in delay. Ahh nostalgia. I also used to drive the overhead crane (sat up there in the cab) that hoisted them up and out of their furnace arm clamp, they didn't half swing about. You had to be at one with the controls, they weren't like the little joysticks you see Greg Wallace going crackers over in modern equipment, I'm pretty sure they were bakelite switches which applied power in discrete notches, not like a fine throttle control. One notch and woosh it takes off. One notch back timed just right to cancel out the swing. Oh no, you didn't time it right... Wild swinging and the thing is rocking about near alsorts of equipment and the tip is glowing white at 1500°C whilst someone is (not) patiently waiting at the bottom to joint the thing. A delay can cause big issues when you are supplying a continuous caster which has to stop - not very continuous then is it? But what can you do when the guy on the floor can't be bothered to give you clear directions to guide it down for some unhelpful reason, somehow expecting you to magically negate the weird perspective you've got of the operation from way up yonder. No radios, and shouting in that noise isn't going to work, so you inch it in and don't mention it later because what's the point. Usually they were fine, but it wer all'us wun that wer a git. You really don't want to snap one either. We did drop one - not my fault I'll add, they opened up the wrong clamp and had a del boy's chandelier moment - but there was so much dust under the furnace that it landed softly and mostly upright. I think the clamp's controls were wired up in reverse directions on the two furnaces, probably as a laugh by the German installers. Nerve wrecking job releasing the electrode clamp, which required counting and tapping the knobs in the right order 3 times before you did it. I'll stop now, I'm getting all wistful.

Haaaaaa! Thanks all, very sweet.

Suddenly I heard Club Tropicana coming through. And the front is fitted and balanced.

That's the way to do it. They must have those new reform councillors up there.

That's not Mapperly!

Nice. I'll have a look too. One of the first ones that comes up is steering head bearings. I'll judge him based on that. Pain in the arse job.

Is MV customer service that bad? You could take your own flask if their coffee isn't up to it. Really though, I think you should get stuck in and post plenty of pictures on the pitstop board, next best thing to having someone in person. I'm off to Bungay in a minute though, which might almost be local.

I'm blaming you for the fact I've now got the kit to fit tyres at home. I always thought I'd need a proper air compressor to get the bead seated and I couldn't be bothered to get one. But, on your mention of using a piddly one, one that is usually slower (and noisier) than using a bike floor pump, I give you, my bead seater: It was obviously a slight workout to get it to ping, but by Jove it did ping. And quite satisfying too. 56PSI in the end. The start was a bit iffy, had to remove the valve core (I didn't think it would be a bottleneck vs just a hand pump, but it had an effect), and play with the bead a bit to get it started, but it got going after a fiddle. Credit to the others too for showing the way. I've ended up getting a Polish contraption which is small enough for me to squirrel away. I already had a balancer stand since I used to spoon the DR650's on and off be 'and because I weren't bothered about the pre-scuffed but tough as nails anyway rims. But I couldn't do that to my latest and greatest.

Ah of course, a bit of lube would've been nice. Next time. The grub screws on the maxton push onto some bits of plastic, which then touches the threads, so they act like a nyloc nut, and once set (by maxton) are not touched again. Edit: just to add that gt85 is the go to scent for Friday nights whereas wd40 is just a nice everyday wear. Double edit: I had to read the manual for that maxton tidbit

Seeing as though we're geeking about preload adjusters I'll add that the stock Z900RS shock has the twin ring setup but the lock ring on top was a pain to loosen off because it dragged the bottom one with it, with not a lot of room to get another c spanner in. I hate setting preload at the best of times . The maxton shocks are great though, no lock ring at all. They just have a few grub screws to add friction to the apparatus, which is already set from the shop and doesn't need adjusting at all, you simply turn the ring with a spludger (a specially cut down screw driver, so just a handle and a bar) and leave it. It's my fave.

I'll second the motolug. I bought mine a few years ago second hand and it was still bloody expensive. But, it's the only thing I can store out of the way, I don't have much room. It goes in the shed but it's only 15mins of faff. Plus you can turn up to a bike viewing with it in the boot, unbeknownst to the seller, ready to whisk away. I had bought somebody's home made contraption before, but I got shut and never used it in the end. If you've room to store a non folding trailer then there's probably cheaper alternatives but I'd have to buy another if it went missing. I couldn't tell you what the alts. might be though.